Making own grow bags

[The Warm Canuck]

I've been growing trees in grow bags in the ground and have been really happy with the results. I also use pond baskets, however, I think I'll be moving away from this as I'm much happier with the roots that come out of the grow bag. Anyways, I don't want to make this another grow bag vs pond basket thread, I'm looking at making some of my own bags from this material, I'm pretty sure, it's similar to what some of the manufactures are making their bags out of and this will save me a ton. Thoughts?

https://www.amazon.ca/VEVOR-Geotextile-Landscape-100ft-Fabric/dp/B09TQZNYRY/ref=d_pd_di_sccai_cn_sccl_4_4/144-1682347-3026437?pd_rd_w=oXUZi&content-id=amzn1.sym.d6674fdf-bd00-4d07-8317-6dfd6c498cdf&pf_rd_p=d6674fdf-bd00-4d07-8317-6dfd6c498cdf&pf_rd_r=7YAFF34SC0CKGS6A135Z&pd_rd_wg=r1eX8&pd_rd_r=256dacbc-15b3-4403-af10-2a93e4e6086e&pd_rd_i=B09TQZNYRY&psc=1

 

[LittleDingus]

I thought of doing the same because most bags are too deep for what I want. But then I worried about how to sew them up??

I think you need a tight stitch to keep the material from ripping and hold the seam tight. I don't think most sewing machines can handle the thickness or the density. Hand stitching seems too painful.

I'd be curious on how you plan on stitching and how it works out...

 

[19Mateo83]

I have often thought about this idea as well. As @LittleDingus said, most grow bags are too tall for our uses, it would be nice to be able to make whatever sizes you need. I will be filling along on this ride

 

[LuZiKui]

Looks like a pretty good option for making your own. Just rough calculation if you use 4 SF per pot you can make roughly 75 pots, so about $1.25 per grow bag. And that's probably on the high side. If you make some smaller pots that per bag number will come down a lot more. .

Looks like it should sew pretty easily. I think most decent home sewing machines will handle that no problem. Most machines will sew double and triple layer canvas, I don't think this will be nearly as thick. If anything you may need a slightly stronger needle but that'd be a cheap and easy fix.

Good luck, keep us posted!

 

[Potawatomi13]

Not being seamstress wonder how to sew in round bottom of bag?

 

[johng]

I thought of doing the same because most bags are too deep for what I want.

I used to cut them down to size...now I just fold to desired height...works like a champ

 

[Gabler]

Not being seamstress wonder how to sew in round bottom of bag?

You just follow the curve of the base instead of following a straight line. It doesn’t make much difference to the machine.

 

[Gabler]

I used to cut them down to size...now I just fold to desired height...works like a champ

I do the same. Plus, if I want to ground layer a tree, I can just fold up the sides and fill with more soil.

 

[Maiden69]

Soooo, that fabric is garbage for what you would like to accomplish on a bonsai tree. It will definitely work for air-pruning, but it will not last with sunlight, as it is designed to be covered by something ie. mulch, gravel, etc... I used to fold them as well, but what I have been doing now is cutting the grow bags I use for in-ground trees height in 1/2, I have all the pieces saved and I plan on making rounds and ovals out of plywood or some kind of plastic to use as the bottoms and attached the bag sides to them.

A much better option is the Root Maker fabric, as it also prunes by pinching the root tip instead of air pruning, and this one has a vinyl coating on the outside that helps keep moisture in. Its $90 for a 36"x10 yards piece, enough for a bunch of sides. I have one of this at home and will be making a bunch of "grow pots" for the air-layers that will be removed (hopefully) this fall.

RootBarrier Fabric

36" Tall X 10 yards When installed in a trench, this unique fabric traps root tips and works as a root barrier in landscaping. Provides maximum protection against root escape while allowing the production of new roots in the zone of loosened soil. Install with the fuzzy side toward the roots to...

myrootmaker.com

 

[The Warm Canuck]

Yes, I just cut them down too. The bigger ones I just fold.

Soooo, that fabric is garbage for what you would like to accomplish on a bonsai tree. It will definitely work for air-pruning, but it will not last with sunlight, as it is designed to be covered by something ie. mulch, gravel, etc... I used to fold them as well, but what I have been doing now is cutting the grow bags I use for in-ground trees height in 1/2, I have all the pieces saved and I plan on making rounds and ovals out of plywood or some kind of plastic to use as the bottoms and attached the bag sides to them.

A much better option is the Root Maker fabric, as it also prunes by pinching the root tip instead of air pruning, and this one has a vinyl coating on the outside that helps keep moisture in. Its $90 for a 36"x10 yards piece, enough for a bunch of sides. I have one of this at home and will be making a bunch of "grow pots" for the air-layers that will be removed (hopefully) this fall.

RootBarrier Fabric

36" Tall X 10 yards When installed in a trench, this unique fabric traps root tips and works as a root barrier in landscaping. Provides maximum protection against root escape while allowing the production of new roots in the zone of loosened soil. Install with the fuzzy side toward the roots to...

myrootmaker.com

I think it will work fine. What do you think it's going to do?

My experience when growing in the ground, with bags that aren't specifically designed to be grown grown, is the same feeder root density that I get with the in ground rated variety. The only difference is that some small roots do grow through the bag, however, they'res still a lack of large growing roots and good feeder root production. So that's a win for me. It's like using a pond basket but without the cons of large roots going crazy. My idea is actaully going to be split potting them into larger bags as the roots reach the edges.

 

[W3rk]

I thought of doing the same because most bags are too deep for what I want. But then I worried about how to sew them up??

Just fold the tops down and over. You can get lower walls and then the walls will also be a bit sturdier, that's what I do.

 

[LittleDingus]

Just fold the tops down and over. You can get lower walls and then the walls will also be a bit sturdier, that's what I do.

I do that. But it's a waste.

I'm down to few enough trees these days that I might switch to hemp. Hemp is more expensive...but I don't care for the environmental costs of the plastic the bags are made of either. I get mine from a source that at least claims the cloth is made from recycled plastic...but, as these types of bags do not "air prune" as marketed why would they be truthful about material composition when marketing?

In either case, if going the DIY route, DIY what you need...especially if it saves on material costs.

 

[Gabler]

...but, as these types of bags do not "air prune" as marketed…

I have no problems with the air-pruning ability of grow bags, and I use the cheapest option on Amazon. You just have to ensure the fabric dries out a little between waterings, so any roots that have grown into the cloth dry out.

 

[AJL]

I thought of doing the same because most bags are too deep for what I want. But then I worried about how to sew them up??

I think you need a tight stitch to keep the material from ripping and hold the seam tight. I don't think most sewing machines can handle the thickness or the density. Hand stitching seems too painful.

I'd be curious on how you plan on stitching and how it works out...

Could you use a staple gun instead of stitching if youre not that a good seamstress?!!

 

[Gabler]

Could you use a staple gun instead of stitching if youre not that a good seamstress?!!

Staplers work for sewing if longevity isn’t a concern. Staples tend to tear fabric under load, but since grow bags are stationary, it should work until they rust away.

 

[Maiden69]

I'm down to few enough trees these days that I might switch to hemp. Hemp is more expensive...but I don't care for the environmental costs of the plastic the bags are made of either. I get mine from a source that at least claims the cloth is made from recycled plastic...but, as these types of bags do not "air prune" as marketed why would they be truthful about material composition when marketing?

Which bags are you buying? I use Root Pouch made in AU, which is made from recycled plastic bottles and they do not air-prune, but prune by entrapment. Pinching the root tip and killing it making it bifurcate a few inches back. The bags sold by Root Maker here in the US do the same thing. Air pruning is great, if you don't live in Texas or any windy state, as the fabric will allow too much air drying the media too quickly.

Staples tend to tear fabric under load, but since grow bags are stationary, it should work until they rust away.

I don't think staples will hold a tree that has strong root development, even black and grey Root Pouches seams rupture with strong growing trees, and this bags are rated to be in-ground for 3-5 years.

 

[Gabler]

I don't think staples will hold a tree that has strong root development, even black and grey Root Pouches seams rupture with strong growing trees, and this bags are rated to be in-ground for 3-5 years.

Fair enough. I tend to repot when the roots start stretching the bag, so I’ve never gotten close to seeing the seams burst open. Maybe I’m repotting too frequently?

 

[LittleDingus]

I have no problems with the air-pruning ability of grow bags, and I use the cheapest option on Amazon. You just have to ensure the fabric dries out a little between waterings, so any roots that have grown into the cloth dry out.

As usual, nothing is in isolation.

Those roots are definitely not air pruned roots. The bag is still attached on the left.



They are entrapment pruned. There are no escape roots. The entrapment does make the tree more difficult to remove from the bag. But that's a different thing...and doesn't bifurcate roots as well as air pruning if the root has somewhere else it can go.

But yes, I do NOT ensure the fabric dries out between waterings. Quite the opposite! Whatever I have in a grow bag is meant to be growing out...I find letting the soil dry counterproductive to that goal.

Generally speaking, plants in active growth are less susceptible to root rot. I once ran a 10 year experiment of saguaro from seed. One I watered "only when completely dry" to avoid root rot. The other got biblical amounts of water while it was growing...I dared it to get root rot! I WANTED it to get root rot. The difference in size was telling. 4' in 10 years for the well watered cacti. Only 1' for other cacti. I've repeated similar experiments with many succulents and trees and herbs and same results. Heck...I've even noticed differences between watering in the morning vs the afternoon or evening. Many plants cannot store water. If water cannot be drawn in somehow, there's a shortage of material for making sugars. The cause of root rot is often more about anaerobic conditions than about the root not being dry.

What I think we forget sometimes is that just sticking a green thing under light is all that we need to do for it to make sugars and grow. That is not true. Sunlight is only the energy source. Water and CO2 are the raw materials. If the plant runs out of raw materials, all the energy in the word does little more than burn it. Without the raw materials, there is nothing to make sugars from. People will add CO2 into their super bright grow tents for this reason...push the limits of growth. Plants need x photons, y water molecules and z CO2 molecules to make sure...they stop based on which one they run out of first.

Sorry...I'm really not ranting. Most of the soil wars/container wars/etc...are only "wars" because the scope of the discussion is too narrow to account for all the variables involved. There is no one best container or soil. There is what makes it easiest for you to manage with your habits and practices. And there are recipies others have had success with that provide a convenient place to get started while you tweak them to your situation.

 

[LittleDingus]

Fair enough. I tend to repot when the roots start stretching the bag, so I’ve never gotten close to seeing the seams burst open. Maybe I’m repotting too frequently?

I'm curious: what is the largest bag you use?

I agree, I've never come close to 1 or 3 gallon bags showing any kind of distress. I do have a few 5 gallon that tore on me because they froze to the ground I have a few 7 and 10 gallon that have torn on me just from the weight.

The typical material they make these from seems to take stretching well until there's a separation...then they seem to fail catastrophically and rip right along the "grain" or weave

I think I'm going to stop using anything over 5 gallon because of that.

 

[Maiden69]

Maybe I’m repotting too frequently?

Yes, all the trees I have in bags (3 gal or larger) stay there for at least 3 years. The 1 gal get filled quickly, but depending on the species I can leave them there for 2 years. My JBP in 1 gal bags (cut in 1/2 so 1/2 a gal) need repotting every year if I am keeping them as shohin trees, if they are to become something bigger they get moved into a 3 gal after the first year. My Japanese quince have been in the 1 gal for 2 years. Trident, Liquidambar, Seiju elm, cherry, and Chinese pistache going on 2 years on 2 gal bags, they get repotted either to a bag or a pot next spring.