Looking for some input on my Oak!

[Graft]

I have a small Oak tree, I have no clue as to which way to style it. It needs a leader I have a few to choose from. It has been grown with a soil mound which has given aerial roots. This is another cheap untrained tree from my local bonsai dealer. He suggested planting it at a heavy angle. Also wondering if it would suit root over rock. However I haven't seen any root over rock oaks. Is there a reason for this?? I'm not even sure on a front!

 

[Forsoothe!]

They make nice helmets. Is this an English Oak? They reduce pretty good, but do take years to form the shape. I'd apply @WalterPall's hedging in late summer, like right now, except that yours is too irregular this young, so remove all tip primaries and aim towards a helmet. You'll know it when you get there.

 

[Graft]

They make nice helmets. Is this an English Oak? They reduce pretty good, but do take years to form the shape. I'd apply @WalterPall's hedging in late summer, like right now, except that yours is too irregular this young, so remove all tip primaries and aim towards a helmet. You'll know it when you get there.

Thanks @Forsoothe! Sorry to sound dumb but what a tip primary (the end bud on a branch???). Also not sure about which oak it is. Probably English.

 

[John P.]

I don’t think the roots do anything positive for this tree, nor does the straight trunk.

My suggestion is that you take a longer view on this tree and spend a couple years getting the trunk, roots, and primary branches proper before working on smaller branches and leaves.

Remove the tree from the pot without disturbing the roots and soil. Place a tourniquet on the trunk parallel to the soil and plant it deeper at an angle, covering the tourniquet by at least an inch.


See here:

John P.’s SoCal Oak Thread

I’ve been picking up some deciduous and evergreen (“live”) oak material over the past few years, and decided maybe one thread for all would be better than several separate threads. All of them are California natives except for the cork oaks, Quercus suber, which are a Mediterranean oak. Having...

www.bonsainut.com

 

[Graft]

I don’t think the roots do anything positive for this tree, nor does the straight trunk.

My suggestion is that you take a longer view on this tree and spend a couple years getting the trunk, roots, and primary branches proper before working on smaller branches and leaves.

Remove the tree from the pot without disturbing the roots and soil. Place a tourniquet on the trunk parallel to the soil and plant it deeper at an angle, covering the tourniquet by at least an inch.
View attachment 325793

See here:

John P.’s SoCal Oak Thread

I’ve been picking up some deciduous and evergreen (“live”) oak material over the past few years, and decided maybe one thread for all would be better than several separate threads. All of them are California natives except for the cork oaks, Quercus suber, which are a Mediterranean oak. Having...

www.bonsainut.com

Hi @John P. I agree about the roots. Should I do this work now or wait until spring. And should I remove the aerial roots. I guess the tourniquet is to produce a new nebari??

 

[John P.]

It would probably work now, but you might be more assured of success waiting until late winter or early spring before you have any leaves. For now, I’d just make sure to feed and care for it well, and get it strong for next year’s tasks. I would not trim any leaves or anything else now.

You’re right—when you tourniquet the tree above the “aerial roots” they’ll necessary be taken care of.

 

[Graft]

It would probably work now, but you might be more assured of success waiting until late winter or early spring before you have any leaves. For now, I’d just make sure to feed and care for it well, and get it strong for next year’s tasks. I would not trim any leaves or anything else now.

You’re right—when you tourniquet the tree above the “aerial roots” they’ll necessary be taken care of.

Tourniquet ABOVE the aerial roots. The highest one is halfway up the trunk. will this be OK??

 

[John P.]

Tourniquet ABOVE the aerial roots. The highest one is halfway up the trunk. will this be OK??

Yep!

Use something loose like orchid seedling bark (as I used in my linked post) that will allow some air in there.

 

[Graft]

I've got Akadama, Pumice, peat and sand. I guess 1/3 rd Akadama, pumice and peat would be OK.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I've got Akadama, Pumice, peat and sand. I guess 1/3 rd Akadama, pumice and peat would be OK.

Peat and sand are poor to very poor choices for bonsai potting media.

Most peat sold in USA has been milled to a fine powder. If you can sift your peat and only use chunky bits, the same particle size as your pumice, then it is slightly better as a media component. A second issue with peat, is that as it approaches dryness it will compact. When it is re-hydrated, it does not expand. Repeat cycles of drying out a mix with significant peat, say 25% peat by initial volume, the media will shrink to a hard brick. Loose air voids, compact and become anoxic when wet. The low oxygen will then kill roots. If you use peat, you must keep the mix moist, never approach dryness. Even kept moist, the peat will break down, especially in the presence of fertilizers. Usually in less than 2 years the peat has changed significantly. if the peat was chosen because of its "acid" reaction, if you have hard water, the zeolite effect of peat is usually overwhelmed in less than one year. Peat is problematic. However, if you regularly use humic acids, fulvic acids and liquid seaweed extracts, peat will last longer, in better shape. Key still remains, of compacting when dried out, and not expanding after rehydration.

Sand is just too fine, will separate from the other components, sink to the bottom of the pot and block air penetration.

 

[Graft]

Peat and sand are poor to very poor choices for bonsai potting media.

Most peat sold in USA has been milled to a fine powder. If you can sift your peat and only use chunky bits, the same particle size as your pumice, then it is slightly better as a media component. A second issue with peat, is that as it approaches dryness it will compact. When it is re-hydrated, it does not expand. Repeat cycles of drying out a mix with significant peat, say 25% peat by initial volume, the media will shrink to a hard brick. Loose air voids, compact and become anoxic when wet. The low oxygen will then kill roots. If you use peat, you must keep the mix moist, never approach dryness. Even kept moist, the peat will break down, especially in the presence of fertilizers. Usually in less than 2 years the peat has changed significantly. if the peat was chosen because of its "acid" reaction, if you have hard water, the zeolite effect of peat is usually overwhelmed in less than one year. Peat is problematic. However, if you regularly use humic acids, fulvic acids and liquid seaweed extracts, peat will last longer, in better shape. Key still remains, of compacting when dried out, and not expanding after rehydration.

Sand is just too fine, will separate from the other components, sink to the bottom of the pot and block air penetration.

Thanks for very helpful info. What about just akadama and pumice?

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Just Akadama and Pumice, any ratio, from 80:20 to 20:80 is an excellent mix, for a wide array of bonsai. Oak I'd probably go 50:50.