Looking for ideas to grow out baobabs

Slightly off topic, but my wife and I were in St Louis so we stopped at the botanical gardens for an afternoon stroll. Found this guy in the Climatron. I found that interesting since they say the Climatron is kept year round at ~85F during the day dropping to ~64F at night. There were lots of rainforest and swamp plants in there as well...definitely not what I think of when I think Baobab! I doubt this guy gets a dormant period!

I also found it interesting that the tree looked to be 50'+ tall but was only about a foot in diameter. The soil around it and the path were wet and the air was humid enough it was heavy to breath. The trunk was even damp to the touch...though the leaves up in the canopy looked dry...probably a lot warmer up there in the sun. Made me wonder how the roots were contained and if root moisture was managed from below somehow.

There is a temperate greenhouse just off the side of the Climatron that seemed more like the type of climate I would expect for a Baobab but the ceiling was much shorter in there also.
You stumbled onto a key trick for rapid growth. Baobab are opportunistic, they don't automatically go dormant. If you keep them warm enough, they will grow all year long. BUT, in addition to temps above 65F you need bright light. But if you can do it, they will grow year round. The minute temps drop below 65F they start to go dormant. Once started, they need the dormant cycle to run.

So do you see the path to year round growth?
 
You stumbled onto a key trick for rapid growth. Baobab are opportunistic, they don't automatically go dormant. If you keep them warm enough, they will grow all year long. BUT, in addition to temps above 65F you need bright light. But if you can do it, they will grow year round. The minute temps drop below 65F they start to go dormant. Once started, they need the dormant cycle to run.

So do you see the path to year round growth?

Hi Leo, thanks for the input!

I have noticed that temps seem to be really important in germination...night temps more so than day temps. I'm trying to get 2 of each species started from seed. I've been doing 2 seeds of one species at a time. I've managed 6 species so far. I can't get Grandidier and Suarezensis to sprout. They swell but I can't get them to throw a root :( Now it's much cooler than when I first started 2 months ago. I needed a second of some of the species I already sprouted so went back to try to sprout them. Gregori which took less than a week to open the first leaves back in September is now approaching 2 weeks and has just barely poked above the soil line. It's raising out of the pot, but slowly. The obvious difference now from then is that the house temperatures have cooled...especially the nighttime temps.

When I started, the house temps at night would be mid/upper 70F. Now nights are closer to 65F. Days are still getting to upper 70F due to the heat from the lights and that they are in a bright southern window. Still cooler than in September though, but not as much as the night temps. I'm going to give up trying to start more seed until spring when the night temps in the house start to rise again.

I'm hoping to keep the plants that have sprouted from dropping leaves until next fall since I don't know how old they need to be to survive dormancy. They're getting plenty of light right now...too much actually. Some have some slight leaf curling and one has some spots that look like leaf burn. Night temps might be too cool (mid 60F) but they are in the ballpark of what the botanical gardens claim the Climatron is kept at so...maybe??

It's interesting the variety of the 6 species I have so far. They range from 2-3" tall to almost a foot. Surprisingly, the first species that sprouted (gregorii) is the smallest and perrieri is the tallest by far even though the gregori is twice as old! The picture is of 2 perrieri (back two) and 2 fony (front two). They are the tallest 2 species so far.
 

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Hi Leo, thanks for the input!

I have noticed that temps seem to be really important in germination...night temps more so than day temps. I'm trying to get 2 of each species started from seed. I've been doing 2 seeds of one species at a time. I've managed 6 species so far. I can't get Grandidier and Suarezensis to sprout. They swell but I can't get them to throw a root :( Now it's much cooler than when I first started 2 months ago. I needed a second of some of the species I already sprouted so went back to try to sprout them. Gregori which took less than a week to open the first leaves back in September is now approaching 2 weeks and has just barely poked above the soil line. It's raising out of the pot, but slowly. The obvious difference now from then is that the house temperatures have cooled...especially the nighttime temps.

When I started, the house temps at night would be mid/upper 70F. Now nights are closer to 65F. Days are still getting to upper 70F due to the heat from the lights and that they are in a bright southern window. Still cooler than in September though, but not as much as the night temps. I'm going to give up trying to start more seed until spring when the night temps in the house start to rise again.

I'm hoping to keep the plants that have sprouted from dropping leaves until next fall since I don't know how old they need to be to survive dormancy. They're getting plenty of light right now...too much actually. Some have some slight leaf curling and one has some spots that look like leaf burn. Night temps might be too cool (mid 60F) but they are in the ballpark of what the botanical gardens claim the Climatron is kept at so...maybe??

It's interesting the variety of the 6 species I have so far. They range from 2-3" tall to almost a foot. Surprisingly, the first species that sprouted (gregorii) is the smallest and perrieri is the tallest by far even though the gregori is twice as old! The picture is of 2 perrieri (back two) and 2 fony (front two). They are the tallest 2 species so far.

You got it! Night time temperatures are the key. You must keep the nights warm to keep the trees growing, and the day time must be warmer than night. Do that, and you can keep them growing all year round. In the wild, the rainy season has clouds that trap heat and keep the nights warm, the sun makes the day hot, even if it is raining. In the dry season, there are few or no clouds, this allows radiant cooling cooling at night. Cool nights tell the Baobab that the dry season is here. It is the trigger that starts the dormant cycle. They don't wake up until the clouds return and keep the nights warm. They do not have winter and summer, it is only dry season and wet season.

Once the tree is chilled, it will start its dormant cycle. Leaves will start dropping. If the leaves turn yellow and drop, stop watering. Don't start watering until you see new leaf buds opening. Once the dormant cycle starts, the tree must be allowed to go through it. If you keep watering, you risk rotting the tree away. Water alone will not ''reverse'' the tree's dormancy cycle. It needs to run once started.

I have a trick that will help you with windowsill growing. I learned it growing orchids. A fan, or fans if your collection gets large enough. Get a cheap 12 cm or 9 inch diameter fan. Set it so that it blows either directly or indirectly at your plants on the windowsill. You want enough of a breeze that leaves wave a little bit. Trees in the wild can take WIND, so if one or two of your trees have leaves that move a bit more than a gentle wave don't worry. Leave the fan on 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. It doesn't mater if the fan is blowing low humidity household air at the trees. Just keep the air moving. If you have a ceiling fan in the room, this may be enough, leave the ceiling fan on 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Fans are the trick that will vastly improve just about any plant you grow on the windowsill. Or under lights for that matter.

What does the fan do? First, the glass of the window tends to get cold from the cold outside. In winter, especially on a cold night you can feel the cold air falling off the glass. This can seriously chill any plants growing on the windowsill. A fan will help keep the plants on the windowsill at ambient room temperature. This will help keep the plants warm enough to not start the dormant cycle.

Second a fan will help keep leaf temperatures at room temperature. You know how a plastic pot heats up on a windowsill in still air? Well moving air will allow you to give direct sun to the leaf without risk of the leaf sun scorching. In raising orchids, there are some orchids that are noted for being cool growers. The problem has been giving them enough sun to grow well while still keeping them ''cool''. The answer is FANS, a breeze keeps the leaves cool and yet allows you to expose the orchid to full sun. No sunburn.

Third, a fan will keep roots healthy. Air moving across the surface of the soil will to some degree mix down into the soil. You will get significantly better root growth, with fewer issues with root rot if the air is moving.

Fourth, fewer insect issues. A fan will help keep down spider mite infestations. I have had fewer issues with spider mites, mealy bug, and aphids if all the plants have good air movement. It is not a guarantee, but it definitely helps.

Note all 4 benefits would help just about any houseplant. I learned this trick growing orchids, but you can see, it applies to virtually any plant.

So do your baobabs a favor, and put fans in or near your collection, and get the air moving.
 
I have a trick that will help you with windowsill growing. I learned it growing orchids. A fan, or fans if your collection gets large enough.

I've been growing orchids for years :D At one point, we lived just a few blocks from Hausermann's in Villa Park Illinois. My orchid habit/addiction has tended to fluctuate with the children. I get a few dozen plants and get everything just about situated on windowsill, under lights, etc...then we have another child and they plants slowly decline as I prioritize child health over plant health. Child ages and I get some time back...and my collection grows again only to repeat the cycle! And so it was for 4 children...The last one leaves for college in a few years. I currently have only 4 orchids...we'll see where that is in 3 years...

I haven't added a fan yet, but I've been meaning to. I just set up some light shelves for the first time in a while...still working out the setup. I fully believe in wind! "Shaking" the plants causes some hormone release that helps strengthen the stems. I've been making a point to brush the seedlings around to stimulate them while I search for the fans I want.

Under the same lights I also have a crop of dawn redwood seedlings plus a few older sequoia and coastal redwoods plus some other random stuff. I've got a cool water mister which helps a lot with humidity in the local climate...just haven't ordered the fans yet...
 
Some updates in case anyone is interested.

I've managed to get seeds for all 8 recognized Baobab species. In October 2018, I managed to sprout 6 of the 8 species. That was definitely the wrong time of year for my location and I struggled with trying to keep them awake all winter or trying to make them go dormant for a few months. Since I still have a number of seed, I opted to try and let them go dormant to see what happens. I moved them into the much cooler basement but still under bright light...our basement is walk out and has floor to ceiling 8' windows that face south east. I also stopped watering them. By late January they had lost all their leaves.

Around late April I brought them back upstairs and watered them a bit. I also tried starting a few more seeds...especially of the 2 species I still didn't have but others as well. All but the one gregorii I had woke back up and started growing. When night temps got safe, I moved everybody outside.

I still haven't been able to get grandidieri or suarazensis to sprout. I've gotten grandidieri to germinate a couple of times but its always rotted when moved to a pot :( Despite the seed looking perfectly viable even after breaking it out of the had shell after a long soak, I've never gotten a suaresenis to show any signs of what I would call germination. Never any root elongation or color change. I'm down to my last few suarezensis seeds and everywhere I knew to get them is out of stock so I broke down and ordered some sticks from a place in France. I've got those in various pots hoping for the best though I'd still like to get a seed to sprout!

I'll add a few pictures of some of the trees that I took today...they grow quite fast :)
 
This tree was one of these two seeds started last September. Both survived a short dormancy over the winter. One I tried repotting into pure DE but it rotted and died. I'm not convinced it was the DE's fault...I'm pretty sure it was mine. But I won't be trying that experiment again unless I get a few more backup plants. This one is in pure coconut coif seedling mix still.

It was started in a 1l pop bottle but I slip potted it into a 2l bottle about a month ago since the old bottle had tons of roots along the inside of the bottle. If you look closely at the picture, the 2l bottle is showing tons of roots already just 1 month later. It's also getting really top heavy and even light winds tend to tip it over. I've debating up potting it again or maybe just leave it until it goes dormant.

Where it's been placed, it's been getting full morning sun until ~noon. I've just moved it to a place where it can get full sun until closer to 3pm. That place is more exposed to wind though so it if continues to fall over, I might have to move it back.
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The first baobab I ever germinated was a gregorii. For whatever reason, it still has failed to wake up from dormancy. I pulled the tuber from the soil a couple of times and it's still healthy looking and firm. It's only about 3" long though...it only had about 3 months of growth before I started trying to force dormancy. The others germinated after it all woke up. I still keep the tuber outside with the others but I don't water it so it only gets moisture when it rains.

Since it never woke up, I germinated another seed in April. These pictures are of that seedling...not bad for only 4 months or so of growth!

My initial thought when starting this project was to bonsai these guys. I hadn't picked a scale yet, but I was hoping to grow each in scale and form to what is typical in nature with the tallest being maybe 36"...maybe more. Seeing the true size of some of their leaves now I'm thinking all they'll ever really be are potted plants! I've included a picture of my holding hands with my gregorii. It's "hands" are a little too large for a convincing bonsai at the 3' scale since this plant is already approaching 3'! Also, this species is one of the shorter species so keeping it scale with the others?? Probably going to look really goofy!
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This digitata also took a brief nap over the winter. It was planted last October.

digitata was named thus because of its finger-like (digit) leaves. Unlike the gregorii whose very first leaves were already compound, all 3 digitatas I have have almost exclusively simple leaves so far. This is the tallest one and it has only 2-3 leaves that are compound or lobed and those are only 3 segments. It should get up to 5-7 segmented leaves as it ages. Right now it almost looks more like a coffee than a baobab...
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Last one for now...adansonia madagascarensis. Also planted last October with a shortish winter nap. The crook in the trunk near the bottom is how large it was when it went dormant. The rest is all this summer's growth.

This species seems to drop lower leaves easily. I have two madagascarensis plants and both look like truffula trees :)

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all 3 digitatas I have have almost exclusively simple leaves so far. This is the tallest one and it has only 2-3 leaves that are compound or lobed and those are only 3 segments. It should get up to 5-7 segmented leaves as it ages. Right now it almost looks more like a coffee than a baobab...

My oldest A. digitata, 9yrs from seed, still has all single leaves. Well, it did last year. It is just starting to push this year. We don’t get above 60F nights until July and lose them by Sept. As Leo points out, I need warmer nights! But I don’t have an indoor grow setup. So I guess I need some kind of mini-greenhouse that will keep it 5F-10F warmer at night. Probably not feasible with my current setup and I should just do the shuffle with it every night.
 
My oldest A. digitata, 9yrs from seed, still has all single leaves. Well, it did last year. It is just starting to push this year. We don’t get above 60F nights until July and lose them by Sept. As Leo points out, I need warmer nights! But I don’t have an indoor grow setup. So I guess I need some kind of mini-greenhouse that will keep it 5F-10F warmer at night. Probably not feasible with my current setup and I should just do the shuffle with it every night.
The tallest of my 3 digis has a few leaves that are lobed and the newest leaf has 3 leaflets. They are intermixed though...the second newest is a singlet.

The other 5 species I have make compound leaves pretty regularly...some exclusively.

How often do you water yours? I'm of the as-long-as-they-are-in-active-growth-and-not-in-a-puddle-give-them-water camp. The ones still in coconut coif I sometimes water twice a day. I treat my saguaro and other succulents the same way and never had a rot problem. Once they go dormant I do cut way back on the watering! We'll see if that translates to girth over the years for these guys...

I'm kicking myself in the ass over my jade my wife got me when we started dating...for 20+ years every time I needed to cut that thing back I rooted cuttings and threw the trunks away :( I just liked the plant and didn't much care for it thickening up until recently I saw one at a conservatory with a 6" trunk! Now I see things differently!
 
How often do you water yours? I'm of the as-long-as-they-are-in-active-growth-and-not-in-a-puddle-give-them-water camp.

I agree, they can take normal watering when actively growing and in a good draining mix. I cut off some large tubers and got my oldest in a bonsai pot in May. That might have been a little early since it doesn’t bud out until July, but it hasn’t had a drop of water since May. Once they start dropping leaves, I don’t water at all and move them under the eaves so they don’t get rain water. I got a little rot one year when I left it out in the rain.

I’d watch the coir when they go dormant so it doesn’t stay wet. I’ve read that some growers unpot them and hang them somewhere dry over winter. But I also had a problem with a first year seedling that I stopped watering at leaf drop and it shriveled at the base. It is my oldest plant and it survived by cutting off the live top and grafting it lower.
 
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