Little Black Pine

[Decoy Octopus]

I got what I thought was a good deal on this little pine. It doesn't have the most dramatic movement, but it's got a nice little flow and I think it will be a nice looking tree in a couple seasons.

I'm happy to have it!

 

[sorce]

Cue @Adair M for the hard truth.....

Looks healthy!

Sorce

 

[LanceMac10]

Got a "bug infestation"......treat promptly....

 

[Adair M]

Cue @Adair M for the hard truth.....

Looks healthy!

Sorce

Hmm... the "Hard truth"?

It's a Black Pine!


Lol!!!

I'd chop it again, right above the first whorl. Plant it into a grow box. At a bit more of an angle. Plant it a little deeper than it's planted right now. It's too young to worry about exposing surface roots.

Why chop again? The internode between the first and second whorl is too long. And if you try to use it, there's no taper difference between the lower trunk and the section between the first and second whorl. All The Muranska pines look like that. Fixing that now, and then growing it out again will, in the long run, develop a better tree.

 

[Decoy Octopus]

I went out and purchased another JBP in addition to this one. Now I have three to experiment with! Was waiting until the leaves change and fall "officially" arrives down here before I make any chops to them. Hoping within the next two weeks fall rears its ugly/pretty head. It's been warm here.

Anyway. . .

Was hoping for some input from y'all regarding the chop to improve taper on this little tree.

With a chop like this, should buds sprout like crazy, being that it is such a young piece of material?

Or should I chop back to an active tiny one?

In the picture below, I've been debating between these two chops. Having never chopped a JBP before, was just hoping for some input before I go hog wild. . .

Red chop is below the tiny bud/branch in the second picture and the blue chop is above.

Obviously the tiny branch/bud isn't in the greatest position to become a new leader as it would jet out the back and have to be trained upward but should I consider it for safety's sake? Or is this chop pretty bulletproof and the chances so good of new apical growth that I shouldn't even concern myself with blue chop.



Any help, input or other ideas are appreciated!

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I'd go with the red. Remember, it is way too early to pick front or back. Read Brent Walston's articles on developing JBP. He is one of the few that talks clearly about bring seedlings and nursery stock up to size and preparing them to become bonsai. Growing your bonsai from seed or seedling. He has 2 articles just about JBP, and many good articles. All the articles are about what needs to be done BEFORE the first bonsai styling. Website www.evergreengardenworks.com

@Adair M is right, move it to a grow box or Anderson flat in spring, or you locally ideal repotting time.

Texas is an ideal area for growing JBP. These should do well for you. I'm in the ''great white north'', so I can not give you good advice on specific timing of treatments. What I do in June, you might do in February (repot) or July (candle removal). So listen to Adair, he has the best info on timing in the southeastern part of USA.

Read about escape branches, One of the branches in the whorl of branches will be your escape branch, one will be your new leader & one will be your first branch. Or not, depending on what you choose to do.

Also, in the photo it is hard to tell, but you seem to have white ''fuzzy'' matter at base of needles, right at or in needle sheaths, and random brown spots along length of some needles. This could be a soft scale insect, the family is Adelgids, and mealy bug is a typical member of the group. It might be the pine needle adelgid. Best insect spray to use would be one that lists Adelgids on the label. If it lists mealy bug it will probably work, but not guarranteed. Read label, then treat, repeat treatment at frequency label rcommends.

Brown spot on needles could also be needle cast, treat with appropriate fungicide also.

Infestation does not look bad now, but if you stress the tree, their population could explode. Treat now to be safe.

If your insect of fungal disease is not listed on the label, it may not work, so read labels and follow label directions.

Caution, I am only looking at a photo, and making a guess, if you are able to bring it to an experienced person for a hands on diagnosis, that would be better than going soley on my comment. Take a close look yourself.

 

[LanceMac10]

Got a "bug infestation"......treat promptly....

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Got a "bug infestation"......treat promptly....

I saw that Lance
It prompted me to take a second look, forgot to give you credit

Thought I'd toss out a name so searching for something more specific than ''bug spray'' will be easier.

Though because I'm only looking at a photo, it is just a guess.

But you did see them first.

 

[LanceMac10]

I'm very busy!!

How about, "Spray...for white bug"?
I packed all chem's and such already, so I couldn't look at what I used a few years ago when I had a similar problem.
Probably something I couldn't pronounce.

 

[Decoy Octopus]

Thanks for the great advice Leo and LanceMac. I'll be sure to post some photos after some chopping and dousing. =)

 

[Decoy Octopus]

I've doused the tree four times with Nature's Care Insecticidal Soap with what seems to be no results. Is there a more effective pre-mixed solution for this?

Any advice would be appreciated.

-G

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I've doused the tree four times with Nature's Care Insecticidal Soap with what seems to be no results. Is there a more effective pre-mixed solution for this?

Any advice would be appreciated.

-G

Did the product you used list Adelgids on the label? If not, no surprise it did not work.

I would use something like Bayer Tree & Shrub, or one of the Merit formulas. But you must take the time to read the labels. There is no easy way out.

I've also had good results with synthetic pyrethrins like Decathlon WP or Mavrik, both are Sandoz products.

 

[GGB]

@Adair M can I ask why exposing surface roots on a young tree is bad? I have seen it written many times on here but I can't think of an obvious reasons it would be negative

 

[Decoy Octopus]

It did list adelgids. . . maybe a few more applications? I've been doing it about once a week.

 

[Adair M]

@Adair M can I ask why exposing surface roots on a young tree is bad? I have seen it written many times on here but I can't think of an obvious reasons it would be negative

Surface roots will bark up to protect themselves from the sun. Once they bark up, they won't back bud. So, they'll get longer and longer.

You want to encourage radial, feeder roots close to the trunk at first. They'll backbud if they're kept pliable and under the soil a bit. It takes a long time to develop great nebari. Don't try to rush it.

 

[Paradox]

It did list adelgids. . . maybe a few more applications? I've been doing it about once a week.

If it didn't get rid of them in the first and second applications, then it's not working.

I use Sevin. It works on adelgids, it works the first time and it works fast.

YES it's a pesticide. None of us likes to use them but delaying or pussy footing around with stuff that does not work will just result in more sick and/or dead trees.

Once you've spent years and 100s of dollars on trees and lose em, you learn not to mess around. Just follow the instructions on the bottle and don't let your pets, or kids near the tree until it dries.

 

[GGB]

@Adair M Aha! Thank you for your response, I will make appropriate adjustments