large crabapple cutting

[catfish chapstick]

I finally trunk chopped my developing crabapple tree. I know I could have waited and taken the time to air-layer the top off, however I just purchased a new saw, Silky Gomboy, and really just wanted to use it for something. It really is a fantastic little saw. I had been considering a trunk chop on this crabapple since the day I collected it.

I had a look at the chunk I cut off I started to like it more.

Do you think I can root the cut off piece? It's approximately two inches wide. I stuck it in pure pumice for now. Has anyone tried anything similar with crabapple?

 

[Cadillactaste]

No clue...but was really hoping for photos of your chopped tree.

 

[GrimLore]

If you can get the cutting to take I think your best chance would be to put in the ground or a very large container. Keep it damp and tie it in if needed so it does not move. A partial sun area with wind protection - all of those things will give you a better chance albeit 50/50 to start. That is a nice chop either way and the pics on your blog makes me a little jelly

Grimmy

 

[catfish chapstick]

here is the cutting

 

[GrimLore]

It is worth at least trying - I have seen many larger take and in warmer climates like Nellie has they root huge specimens on a regular basis.

Grimmy

 

[catfish chapstick]

here is the tree that got chopped http://www.bonsainut.com/index.php?threads/collected-crabapple.3343/page-5

 

[catfish chapstick]

here it is (the cutting) potted in pumice and topped with rocks.

I NEED IT TO LIVE!!!

 

[Cadillactaste]

Fingers crossed for you...that will be a sweet piece great bones...keep us posted.

 

[Stan Kengai]

Crabs are hard to propagate by cutting on anything other than new wood (current year's growth). There is always a chance, and you might improve them with bottom heat.

 

[JoeR]

I am interested in taking crabapple cuttings of small caliper.

When should I take them? What should I keep them in light wise? Dome or not?

 

[catfish chapstick]

Crabs are hard to propagate by cutting on anything other than new wood (current year's growth). There is always a chance, and you might improve them with bottom heat.

I'm searching for information on the Internet and this person suggests "cool and humid" for hardwood cuttings
http://www.douggreensgarden.com/hardwood-cuttings.html and he mentions apples in the beginning.

 

[sorce]

I've read you take them in fall....?

I believe you'll get roots. Will it!

The tree is wicked.

Sorce

 

[Eric Schrader]

Hold on. I don't think coarse pumice is the best rooting medium. You want something finer, with more water retention for rooting. If you look at Dirr's you're going to see a lot of mentions of perlite/sand or peat/perlite or pure sand.

And - rooting hormone! If you didn't use it you should. Also, you could try just sticking it in a mason jar with an inch of water in the bottom to see if it will root that way. The warmer conditions inside your kitchen might stimulate some root growth?

Dirr's says that crabapples are hard, but that wild apple stock will root on hardwood. Late winter (your right on time!), 2500-5000PPM rooting hormone, bottom heat (65-70 degrees), peat moss/sand.....so my advice above basically agrees with Dirr's.

 

[michaelj]

If it doesn't live, give it to an artist. I see a piece of art in that cutting.

 

[catfish chapstick]

Hold on. I don't think coarse pumice is the best rooting medium. You want something finer, with more water retention for rooting. If you look at Dirr's you're going to see a lot of mentions of perlite/sand or peat/perlite or pure sand.

And - rooting hormone! If you didn't use it you should. Also, you could try just sticking it in a mason jar with an inch of water in the bottom to see if it will root that way. The warmer conditions inside your kitchen might stimulate some root growth?

Dirr's says that crabapples are hard, but that wild apple stock will root on hardwood. Late winter (your right on time!), 2500-5000PPM rooting hormone, bottom heat (65-70 degrees), peat moss/sand.....so my advice above basically agrees with Dirr's.

Thanks for sharing that. I had read "Propagation Medium: Unlike heavier, more compact sand media, lightweight pumice media gently releases the roots when cuttings are removed." On http://aboutpumice.com/pumice-uses.html

I don't have any sand, just a bag of Akadama and a box of pumice. I also don't have rooting hormone. is it going to fail without those things? I have kept it well watered. I could get the rooting hormone if the garden store doen the street carries it but it's a hydroponics store mostly so Im not sure if they carry it.

 

[GrimLore]

Find a Willow Branch and cut it up. Make a "tea" from it - that produces a natural rooting hormone on a dime

Grimmy

 

[catfish chapstick]

Find a Willow Branch and cut it up. Make a "tea" from it - that produces a natural rooting hormone on a dime

Grimmy

Thanks I had thought of that. Just need to find a willow.

Here is another source that says to keep the dormant cutting cool while roots form as opposed to some form of bottom heat http://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/propagating-hardwood-cuttings/

 

[GrimLore]

The reason I said to put it in the ground or a decent size container in partial sun(not real warm). Hardwood cuttings do best in Fall after leaf drop in the ground and if all goes well they will have root in the Spring. It is hard to determine the actual condition of the cutting at this time of year meaning is it really hardwood right now? As I said earlier it is 50/50 but because it really isn't something that requires a lot of time it is certainly worth a try.

Grimmy

 

[catfish chapstick]

I hit it with some IBA, NAA, and Vitamin B-1

The buds are swelling and new buds are forming. So far so good.

 

[catfish chapstick]

Ok. It's been a couple of weeks and the cutting is doing well so far. Every branch is pushing leaves and buds and no parts are dead. I'm now wondering when I should fertilize it. just for fun I took a couple hardwood cuttings from crabapple around town and they are also pushing out leaves. The tow cuttings I took from different trees look identicle, same size and color fruits, same bark and buds, etc. Only one was very tall and the other is very dwarf. It is my impression that a grafted malus gets its growth habit from whatever particular rootstock it had been joined to. I don't know if they were grafted.

If these cuttings are a success I am going to start experimenting with more hardwood cuttings. Seems to be a massive shortcut for the grower of small trees...