landscape tree for privacy on my deck

JohnnyFive

Yamadori
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Location
Midwest 5b
USDA Zone
5b
This last ice storm destroyed my lilac bush that had grown to 14ft tall. It gave a bit of privacy to my deck. I will be removing it in the spring but am unsure what species I should replace it with. I would like a fast growing tree that will reach 15-20ft, and give us a little shade/privacy. I am looking into bloodgood maple, but I don't know if it will grow fast enough for us. Doesn't really need to be considered for bonsai unless I want to make an airlayer or two, but that's not really a concern. Zone 5b Nebraska. Crab apples aren't an option either because I don't want the fruits staining my deck. Any ideas? I would prefer something I can buy that's pretty large already from a nursery. It will get sun from the am until 3-4pm.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
Its literally has all of it's trunks/branches horizontal to the ground... i don't know if it's coming back. I think my only option is to cut it back really hard and essentially start from scratch.
 
This last ice storm destroyed my lilac bush that had grown to 14ft tall. It gave a bit of privacy to my deck. I will be removing it in the spring but am unsure what species I should replace it with. I would like a fast growing tree that will reach 15-20ft, and give us a little shade/privacy. I am looking into bloodgood maple, but I don't know if it will grow fast enough for us. Doesn't really need to be considered for bonsai unless I want to make an airlayer or two, but that's not really a concern. Zone 5b Nebraska. Crab apples aren't an option either because I don't want the fruits staining my deck. Any ideas? I would prefer something I can buy that's pretty large already from a nursery. It will get sun from the am until 3-4pm.

Thanks for any suggestions.

If you don't have a lot of space at ground level, tree form hollies are great for screening. (east palatka is a great variety). If you don't care about it being evergreen, crape myrtle is a good choice (if it grows in your zone). Both of these plants are easily pruned, which can't be said for a lot of medium to large growing trees.
 
You could try osage orage. It has long been used a a hedge in the midwest and the thorns alone would keep prying eyes away lol.

You would have to prune it to keep it relatively small, though.
 
Thuja occidentalis - aka White cedar, Arborvitae, easy enough to find ready to plant at the height you need. The tall upright types would work like 'Degroot's Spire'

Or, just mow lilacs down to just below the broken points. New shoots from roots. Will be at height within 3 years, maybe even first year. Really this is the easiest.

Bamboo - in zone 5b I suggest Phyllostachys atrovaginata or Phyllostachys aureosulcata forma aureocaulis or forma 'Spectabilis' - yes, you absolutely must put in a barrier to contain the rhizomes, it would be irresponsible to let them loose in the ground. The bamboo listed are reliably hardy in zone 5b, my plantings are 30+ years old. I'm 40 miles north of Chicago. Height in zone 5b will max out at 18 feet. Usually 8 to 12 feet. Over the years, 3 out of 5 years the bamboo stays evergreen. Rhizomes are hardy to -25F. with just 6 inches of mulch on top, even after total top winter kill, new shoots from rhizomes will reach full height in about 3 weeks. Yep, my bamboo shoots poke their noses above ground in early May and by end of May have topped out at 8 to 12 feet. When I've had several mild winters in a row, the new shoots will reach 18 feet. The colder the winter and the shorter the growing season, the lower the final height. They need water, supplement water any week you have less than one inch of rain while shoots are developing, especially May through to August or September.

I suggest a horse watering trough partially or fully buried in the ground as your barrier. Drainage holes only in the very center of the bottom as rhizomes tend to circle the outsides of the container. Rhizomes seldom go straight down. They tend to go out and down. So if the bottom of the container you are using as a barrier was a target, the drainage holes should only be in the bullseye area. The barrier needs to be sturdy, bamboo rhizomes can pierce a child's plastic wading pool. Cross linked or HD polyethylene should be at least 3/16 inch thick, 3/8ths is better. I have also used plastic 55 gallon barrels, cut off at about 24 to 30 inches. Drainage holes in the "bullseye" id the bottom of the barrel were a target. DO NOT PLANT BAMBOO LOOSE IN THE GROUND. In 20 years a bamboo planting without a barrier will be a major project to dig up out of bounds rhizomes. Shoots that come up out of bounds can be harvested for the kitchen table. Bamboo shoots are excellent eating, and hard to find fresh shoots. Until you have had stir fry with bamboo shoots less than a day out of the ground you have not lived. I also steam them like one would asparagus.
 
Thuja occidentalis - aka White cedar, Arborvitae, easy enough to find ready to plant at the height you need. The tall upright types would work like 'Degroot's Spire'

Or, just mow lilacs down to just below the broken points. New shoots from roots. Will be at height within 3 years, maybe even first year. Really this is the easiest.

Bamboo - in zone 5b I suggest Phyllostachys atrovaginata or Phyllostachys aureosulcata forma aureocaulis or forma 'Spectabilis' - yes, you absolutely must put in a barrier to contain the rhizomes, it would be irresponsible to let them loose in the ground. The bamboo listed are reliably hardy in zone 5b, my plantings are 30+ years old. I'm 40 miles north of Chicago. Height in zone 5b will max out at 18 feet. Usually 8 to 12 feet. Over the years, 3 out of 5 years the bamboo stays evergreen. Rhizomes are hardy to -25F. with just 6 inches of mulch on top, even after total top winter kill, new shoots from rhizomes will reach full height in about 3 weeks. Yep, my bamboo shoots poke their noses above ground in early May and by end of May have topped out at 8 to 12 feet. When I've had several mild winters in a row, the new shoots will reach 18 feet. The colder the winter and the shorter the growing season, the lower the final height. They need water, supplement water any week you have less than one inch of rain while shoots are developing, especially May through to August or September.

I suggest a horse watering trough partially or fully buried in the ground as your barrier. Drainage holes only in the very center of the bottom as rhizomes tend to circle the outsides of the container. Rhizomes seldom go straight down. They tend to go out and down. So if the bottom of the container you are using as a barrier was a target, the drainage holes should only be in the bullseye area. The barrier needs to be sturdy, bamboo rhizomes can pierce a child's plastic wading pool. Cross linked or HD polyethylene should be at least 3/16 inch thick, 3/8ths is better. I have also used plastic 55 gallon barrels, cut off at about 24 to 30 inches. Drainage holes in the "bullseye" id the bottom of the barrel were a target. DO NOT PLANT BAMBOO LOOSE IN THE GROUND. In 20 years a bamboo planting without a barrier will be a major project to dig up out of bounds rhizomes. Shoots that come up out of bounds can be harvested for the kitchen table. Bamboo shoots are excellent eating, and hard to find fresh shoots. Until you have had stir fry with bamboo shoots less than a day out of the ground you have not lived. I also steam them like one would asparagus.

Aren't bamboo shoots pretty variable in terms of taste/edibility?
 
This last ice storm destroyed my lilac bush that had grown to 14ft tall. It gave a bit of privacy to my deck. I will be removing it in the spring but am unsure what species I should replace it with. I would like a fast growing tree that will reach 15-20ft, and give us a little shade/privacy. I am looking into bloodgood maple, but I don't know if it will grow fast enough for us. Doesn't really need to be considered for bonsai unless I want to make an airlayer or two, but that's not really a concern. Zone 5b Nebraska. Crab apples aren't an option either because I don't want the fruits staining my deck. Any ideas? I would prefer something I can buy that's pretty large already from a nursery. It will get sun from the am until 3-4pm.

Thanks for any suggestions.

I would strongly suggest an ordinary Acer palmatum ‘Atropurpurpeum’ Or commonly called a Red Japanese Maple. They grow good, look very nice, offer great shade, and most important Winter very good. So far most of the things suggested will end up destroyed the same way your lilac was givin a harsh Winter. That Maple - pfft... Mine never looses a branch.

Just my 2 pennies based on life experience -

Grimmy
 
You could try osage orage. It has long been used a a hedge in the midwest and the thorns alone would keep prying eyes away lol.

You would have to prune it to keep it relatively small, though.

If you want a messy tree, this is the king of messes. Once they start bearing fruit, it gets ugly....

I would suggest viburnum, there are many that have wonderful flowers some with fragrance, some not. All have great fall color and are fast growers. If you want a fast tree, that doesn't get too big, try an ornamental cherry, they are fast and beautiful.
 
If you want a messy tree, this is the king of messes. Once they start bearing fruit, it gets ugly....

I would suggest viburnum, there are many that have wonderful flowers some with fragrance, some not. All have great fall color and are fast growers. If you want a fast tree, that doesn't get too big, try an ornamental cherry, they are fast and beautiful.

Yeah, but you could throw the fruit at intruders like grenades.
 
DO NOT PLANT BAMBOO LOOSE IN THE GROUND

I second that. I'm fighting an endless battle with a neighbour who planted bamboo in their backyard, and that stuff spread. boy does it ever spread.

I have the opposite problem. My neighbor planted clumping bamboo that doesn't spread but grows like 80 feet tall.
 
+1 recommendation for any Thuja species. There are some reliably pretty cultivars and the entire genus is pretty amenable to heavy pruning.
 
Having lived a long time in new England. Chain-saw pruning lilac was routinely done. To hack everything off knee-high.

Waiting three or four years on a lilac is a blink in time to waiting twenty for a blood-good maple.
 
Excellent suggestions! The ground is pretty thawed. I am going to see if i can't pull up the trunks and tie them off to my deck now. I don't really like the lilac enough to wait several years for it to come back. If it doesn't work, I like the red japanese maple or the cherry idea. I think it would complement the backyard nicely. Grenades for the squirrels and other critters would come in real handy though;).
 
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Thuja occidentalis - aka White cedar, Arborvitae, easy enough to find ready to plant at the height you need. The tall upright types would work like 'Degroot's Spire'

Or, just mow lilacs down to just below the broken points. New shoots from roots. Will be at height within 3 years, maybe even first year. Really this is the easiest.

Bamboo - in zone 5b I suggest Phyllostachys atrovaginata or Phyllostachys aureosulcata forma aureocaulis or forma 'Spectabilis' - yes, you absolutely must put in a barrier to contain the rhizomes, it would be irresponsible to let them loose in the ground. The bamboo listed are reliably hardy in zone 5b, my plantings are 30+ years old. I'm 40 miles north of Chicago. Height in zone 5b will max out at 18 feet. Usually 8 to 12 feet. Over the years, 3 out of 5 years the bamboo stays evergreen. Rhizomes are hardy to -25F. with just 6 inches of mulch on top, even after total top winter kill, new shoots from rhizomes will reach full height in about 3 weeks. Yep, my bamboo shoots poke their noses above ground in early May and by end of May have topped out at 8 to 12 feet. When I've had several mild winters in a row, the new shoots will reach 18 feet. The colder the winter and the shorter the growing season, the lower the final height. They need water, supplement water any week you have less than one inch of rain while shoots are developing, especially May through to August or September.

I suggest a horse watering trough partially or fully buried in the ground as your barrier. Drainage holes only in the very center of the bottom as rhizomes tend to circle the outsides of the container. Rhizomes seldom go straight down. They tend to go out and down. So if the bottom of the container you are using as a barrier was a target, the drainage holes should only be in the bullseye area. The barrier needs to be sturdy, bamboo rhizomes can pierce a child's plastic wading pool. Cross linked or HD polyethylene should be at least 3/16 inch thick, 3/8ths is better. I have also used plastic 55 gallon barrels, cut off at about 24 to 30 inches. Drainage holes in the "bullseye" id the bottom of the barrel were a target. DO NOT PLANT BAMBOO LOOSE IN THE GROUND. In 20 years a bamboo planting without a barrier will be a major project to dig up out of bounds rhizomes. Shoots that come up out of bounds can be harvested for the kitchen table. Bamboo shoots are excellent eating, and hard to find fresh shoots. Until you have had stir fry with bamboo shoots less than a day out of the ground you have not lived. I also steam them like one would asparagus.

Yea, Bamboo sounds like a lot of work... Think I will stay away from that option. I have enough weeding to do with my bonsai, and my garden. I don't need to be pulling 12 ft tall weeds.
 
the cherry idea

Be cautious of the Cherry trees - They drop a LOT of flowers. I am happy ours is away from the deck and walkways. When it blooms and drops it looks like snow on the lawn :oops:

Grimmy
 
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