Juniper and boxwood repotted, reduce foliage ?

maroun.c

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Repotted this juniper and boxwood. Both were a bit on the bushy side with an extensive amount of branches most will have to be reduced, more on the juniper.
Both took a bit of a severe root reduction more on the boxwood.
I'm getting confused between letting foliage intact to help with energy building for root repair, or reducing branches and foliage to minim8ze water draw so remaining roots can keep up.
This is the juniper and u can see how much foliage its got
Screenshot_20220503-075640_Gallery.jpg
Boxwood had a much worse root reduction. Plan was to 1/2 bare root yet when I cut off the bottom 30 percent it showd a nasty cement like soil around the tree, like an initial smaller pot with bad soil abd then a better soil when it was moved to a larger pot. I cleaned up heavily and even had ro wash off the cement like soil. Also had to reduce the rootball significantly to fit it in a pot that's still too large than the final pot it'll be in.
Screenshot_20220503-075159_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20220503-075220_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20220503-075255_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20220503-075324_Gallery.jpg
Screenshot_20220503-075456_Gallery.jpg
 
Furthermore the boxwood has multiple branches emerging at same point at lower level and mid tree.
Here's 4 sides view and mid level pic. Do u think a front choice would hide the swelling or is it best to remove branches to minim8ze it. Do I remove now post repot or next year?which front would u chose for this tree ?
Side 1 current front Screenshot_20220503-075456_Gallery.jpg
Side 2 Screenshot_20220503-075512_Gallery.jpg
Side 3 Screenshot_20220503-075538_Gallery.jpg
Side 4Screenshot_20220503-075538_Gallery.jpg
And swelling at mid level Screenshot_20220503-075608_Gallery.jpg

Any advice on when and which branches to remove and if all together or one every season... is appreciated
 

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I'll only comment on the Boxwood... I'm still learning about Junipers...

Boxwood are very hardy and I believe can take root pruning, repotting, etc all in one go (I'm sure others may correct me), but are slow to thicken, and the branches easily break, even if they bud back readily on old wood etc.

So with this in mind, definitely take your time with any cuts you are unsure of.

Also, Boxwood strike relatively easily from cuttings (even if they do take awhile), so if you want more, plan on that before you start. You certainly have a lot of tree to reduce (air layer(s) may be a better way to get next tree(s) going? - hard to tell from pics).

I'm new to Bonsai and don't profess to have either the horticultural specific knowledge needed, but it looks like you could at least do a large amount of cutting now.

Which? Hard to say from pics... I'll post in another one which angle is taking my fancy.
 
Looking at the pics it is hard to make out what is going on, and I don't consider myself qualified to give advice (and I hope to learn from others replies / suggestions). But where I've marked / put question marks, that is where I'd be looking to remove. The aim to open things up and get to the key interesting branches.

Bonsai 1.jpg

This side the front????

Bonsai 2.jpg

But like I said, I'm interested to see how others respond for my own learnings. Looks like a great tree. Love the bark.
 
Boxwood are very hardy and I believe can take root pruning, repotting, etc all in one go (I'm sure others may correct me), but are slow to thicken, and the branches easily break, even if they bud back readily on old wood etc.
My experience also. I have not tried leaving a full head on transplanted buxus but they'll probably do OK either way.
Junipers appear to do better when they do have plenty of foliage, especially active growing tips to help stimulate new roots. Leave more on junipers at transplant and any root reduction.

Looking at the pics it is hard to make out what is going on
This is a perennial problem. The owner can see all the bends and branch directions in 3D but we only get a limited 2D view. Even with pics form several sides it takes a lot of close study to fully appreciate where branches come from and go to and which direction the trunk moves in relation to any branches.
Always take any advice given from viewing photos with several grains of salt because what looks OK on a photo may not be so good in real 3D life.

Some general observations on buxus styling that may help you through some of the issues mentioned:
Buxus have hard, long lasting wood so dead wood in the styling makes some sense.
Shari on trunks can be used to mitigate reverse taper, Jin can be used where branches need to be removed but scars would detract from the design or hollow out branch scars for a hollow trunk style to your buxus bonsai.

Having said all that I would not go full speed at styling this tree soon after repot. Let it grow for at least a year, maybe longer depending how well it recovers from the repot before doing any more than just shortening a few strategic branches.
 
Reckon I'd cut that big thing off, right after sharpening about 6 saws to get through it.

Seems hort sound for the amount of foliage it would remove, and seems most accurate for design.

Sorce
 
My experience also. I have not tried leaving a full head on transplanted buxus but they'll probably do OK either way.
Junipers appear to do better when they do have plenty of foliage, especially active growing tips to help stimulate new roots. Leave more on junipers at transplant and any root reduction.


This is a perennial problem. The owner can see all the bends and branch directions in 3D but we only get a limited 2D view. Even with pics form several sides it takes a lot of close study to fully appreciate where branches come from and go to and which direction the trunk moves in relation to any branches.
Always take any advice given from viewing photos with several grains of salt because what looks OK on a photo may not be so good in real 3D life.

Some general observations on buxus styling that may help you through some of the issues mentioned:
Buxus have hard, long lasting wood so dead wood in the styling makes some sense.
Shari on trunks can be used to mitigate reverse taper, Jin can be used where branches need to be removed but scars would detract from the design or hollow out branch scars for a hollow trunk style to your buxus bonsai.

Having said all that I would not go full speed at styling this tree soon after repot. Let it grow for at least a year, maybe longer depending how well it recovers from the repot before doing any more than just shortening a few strategic branches.
Thank you! I learned some valuable information from your post.
 
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