JRM First time, root over rock - suggestions

Mame-Mo

Mame
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Location
Austin Texas
USDA Zone
8B
IMG_7792.jpegIMG_7803.jpeg

So I started this 3 years ago with little hope of success and without knowing it was a Japanese red maple (nursery mislabeled it as a rubrum). I have no idea what to do next. I have zero maple experience. If someone could help me with a visual aid of what I should do now I would greatly appreciate it.

So far I can only visualize this: IMG_7804.jpeg

Anyways, any guidance I could get from someone with more experience would be helpful. I will say, this variety, whatever it is, does have very large classically Japanese red maple foliage that will require reduction. They’re the color of bloodgood, but with a more traditional leaf shape if that helps. I also included a shot from a different angle of the roots. There’s another face on the rock that has more roots as well if that would help.
 
You have done a very good job with those roots. Not all attempts result in roots clinging close to the rock like this. Also plenty of roots flowing down the rock which gives us something to work with and to view.

I suspect your lack of vision is because there's so little there so far. As the trunk and branches develop you'll be able to see more options. I find that styling most deciduous is not so much about working with what's already there but planning for what could be there in future. Most deciduous bonsai are made by chopping buts off and then working with the new shoots that grow after the chop.

Designing ROR is about showing the best view of the rock, the best view of the roots flowing over it, the best view of the trunk and branches. It can be hard enough to get trunk and branches to work well in a single trunk bonsai. Adding roots and rock makes styling a great tree much, much harder.
Both your photos show the trunk from the best angle. The last virt also shows a good view of the roots and rock so is likely to be the best option for the 'front'

I believe that ROR bonsai look more natural with a shorter, bending trunk. Trees growing in deep fertile soil grow tall and straight, Trees in rocky places under adverse conditions tend to be stunted and twisted and I guess our brains know that.

I'd certainly follow the lines of your virt for now. I'd be letting the leaders grow free to help thicken the trunk and exposed roots. Only chop back when the trunk and roots are thick enough or if the leaders start to get too thick. It is not unusual to go through 2 or 3 or even more cycles of grow and chop to develop good deciduous bonsai. ROR is no exception.
 
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