bonsai-max
Shohin
Hi there, a baby JBP have all the needle yellowish, maybe is a gooner but I want to do if there is something that I can do
JBP yellow needle
- Thread starter bonsai-max
- Start date
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
While there is still some green there is still some hope but you need to work out what the problem is pretty quick. Unfortunately many different things cause yellow needles.
Too dry
Too wet
Starvation
Too much fertilizer
Cambium damage from over enthusiastic bending
Lack of light
Sunburn (probably less likely in Switzerland)
Without plenty of background info I can't even begin to make a guess as to which of the above may be affecting your seedling.
Too dry
Too wet
Starvation
Too much fertilizer
Cambium damage from over enthusiastic bending
Lack of light
Sunburn (probably less likely in Switzerland)
Without plenty of background info I can't even begin to make a guess as to which of the above may be affecting your seedling.
bonsai-max
Shohin
Hi there, thank you for your answer, in order :
While there is still some green there is still some hope but you need to work out what the problem is pretty quick. Unfortunately many different things cause yellow needles.
Too dry-- could be I was in holiday 10 days and my neighbor give the water to my bonsai, but for these days I moved the plant in a shadow part of my garden that have only 2 hours late evening
Too wet-- Don't think so the substrate is pumice akadama and Kiryu
Starvation--- ?
Too much fertilizer--- I use once a week miracle grow like all my other plants
Cambium damage from over enthusiastic bending-- the Bending was made in April with a slip in repot without roots cut, but was pushing hard after that
Lack of light--- Not possible, except these 10 days the plant take full sun from 9 to 17 like all my other pines
Sunburn---- believe or not is my idea, we have had around 40 C° and maybe he takes too much sun a couple of days and the soil get too dry
While there is still some green there is still some hope but you need to work out what the problem is pretty quick. Unfortunately many different things cause yellow needles.
Too dry-- could be I was in holiday 10 days and my neighbor give the water to my bonsai, but for these days I moved the plant in a shadow part of my garden that have only 2 hours late evening
Too wet-- Don't think so the substrate is pumice akadama and Kiryu
Starvation--- ?
Too much fertilizer--- I use once a week miracle grow like all my other plants
Cambium damage from over enthusiastic bending-- the Bending was made in April with a slip in repot without roots cut, but was pushing hard after that
Lack of light--- Not possible, except these 10 days the plant take full sun from 9 to 17 like all my other pines
Sunburn---- believe or not is my idea, we have had around 40 C° and maybe he takes too much sun a couple of days and the soil get too dry
MaciekA
Shohin
Your situation has a few things that over the years I have added to my "never ever" list.
I think @Shibui got it spot on
- You can drown a pine in pumice and akadama if that pine's foliage surface area is tiny compared to to the pot's moisture capacity. That is a very large soil volume for a very small pine. If I could go back in time and reverse every time I did this, I would.
- You can drown a pine in pumice and akadama if that pine's been recently repotted
- Slip potting is often justified by beginners by saying "I didn't touch the roots, don't worry". Fair enough -- but please note that some of us say "exercise extreme caution when doing slip pots, slip pots can lead to severe problems". Especially and specifically the slip pots that "didn't touch the roots". You may discover why in the post mortem of this tree.
- You can kill any pine by wiring it into a pretzel the same year it was repotted
- You can kill any pine by wiring it into a pretzel the same month it was repotted
- You can kill any pine by wiring it into a pretzel right during the time (mid-spring) when it needs to move water most urgently ( @Shibui 's cambium argument)
- You can severely weaken any pine by doing the above, and then "finish the job" by making transpiration difficult through overwatering combined with shading
- Combinations of the above factors greatly magnify risks
- Anyone who propagates conifer cuttings as a hobby can attest to the fact that many cuttings can briefly push some growth even when roots don't even exist or are very minimal, so "pushing hard" is not a reliable signal that a pine will survive the two "Reality Check Months" (July + August), especially if your region is prone to heat waves and/or heat waves with high humidity. The factors that challenge transpiration are mild in April/May/early June. The factors that challenge transpiration are much more brutal as summer continues.
In my experience a young pine that rapidly and globally loses color after a major bending and during a heat wave is usually dead, so brace yourself.
I think @Shibui got it spot on
- You can drown a pine in pumice and akadama if that pine's foliage surface area is tiny compared to to the pot's moisture capacity. That is a very large soil volume for a very small pine. If I could go back in time and reverse every time I did this, I would.
- You can drown a pine in pumice and akadama if that pine's been recently repotted
- Slip potting is often justified by beginners by saying "I didn't touch the roots, don't worry". Fair enough -- but please note that some of us say "exercise extreme caution when doing slip pots, slip pots can lead to severe problems". Especially and specifically the slip pots that "didn't touch the roots". You may discover why in the post mortem of this tree.
- You can kill any pine by wiring it into a pretzel the same year it was repotted
- You can kill any pine by wiring it into a pretzel the same month it was repotted
- You can kill any pine by wiring it into a pretzel right during the time (mid-spring) when it needs to move water most urgently ( @Shibui 's cambium argument)
- You can severely weaken any pine by doing the above, and then "finish the job" by making transpiration difficult through overwatering combined with shading
- Combinations of the above factors greatly magnify risks
- Anyone who propagates conifer cuttings as a hobby can attest to the fact that many cuttings can briefly push some growth even when roots don't even exist or are very minimal, so "pushing hard" is not a reliable signal that a pine will survive the two "Reality Check Months" (July + August), especially if your region is prone to heat waves and/or heat waves with high humidity. The factors that challenge transpiration are mild in April/May/early June. The factors that challenge transpiration are much more brutal as summer continues.
In my experience a young pine that rapidly and globally loses color after a major bending and during a heat wave is usually dead, so brace yourself.
D
Deleted member 47471
Guest
I’m curious about the being away on vacation for 10 days and the neighbor watering. It could be coincidental. While the medium allows water to move through and escape, I wonder about the gravity column in the bonsai pot. Water tends to collect and remain compared to organic medium and grow containers. You’ll typically need to water a develop container again before watering a refined (bonsai) container. Factor in the shade variable and it further complicates the situation.
I hope your tree survives.
bonsai-max
Shohin
Hi, thank you for you not to do list :
I think the problem is not too much water, the pot is big but is a pond pot, so a lot of air. The substrate becomes dry very quick even is shadow is not a problem.
Maybe too much work all at the same moment, as you said, but the 4 months after the repot an wiring the plant was very green and apen all the candles with a lot of strength....
Heatwave is my first culprit because it was really really hot for a couple of weeks at middle july.
MaciekA
Shohin
Going forward, I would not fear heat in the context of pines -- you will tune your setup / practices / order of operations / timing of operations over time, and if you become a fellow Pine Nerd, you may begin to see heat as a benefit or pine growth elixir. This will all become easier. You are on the path.
Heat waves (at least ones in areas like Switzerland or Oregon, where extreme heat is concentrated into a low number of days per year) don't kill healthy pines, they tend to supercharge them. 40C is nothing to a pine that is checking all the checkboxes of best practices and horticulture. A few days of 45 to 47C didn't kill any pines in my garden in the infamous PNW 2021 heat dome. I instead observed a surge in growth.
It doesn't feel good to melt a pine but ... it is part of the journey to becoming confident with pine. I have produced exactly the same result as your photo several times, in the almost exactly same sequence of actions, with late July to mid August being the "find out" part. Hope this helps
Heat waves (at least ones in areas like Switzerland or Oregon, where extreme heat is concentrated into a low number of days per year) don't kill healthy pines, they tend to supercharge them. 40C is nothing to a pine that is checking all the checkboxes of best practices and horticulture. A few days of 45 to 47C didn't kill any pines in my garden in the infamous PNW 2021 heat dome. I instead observed a surge in growth.
It doesn't feel good to melt a pine but ... it is part of the journey to becoming confident with pine. I have produced exactly the same result as your photo several times, in the almost exactly same sequence of actions, with late July to mid August being the "find out" part. Hope this helps
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
Does pot have drainage
?
?
MaciekA
Shohin
Does pot have drainage
it’s a pond basket, look at the rim along the right edge of the photo.
