JBP sapling not thriving

[apr]

Hi Folks

I've had this JBP sapling a year now and just wondering what I can do to help it do better.



We had a cold wet winter and it's in a mix with some organic matter. I've gone easier on the watering this year and it's been in full sun as best I can.

The candle extended and hardened off last year and all needles died and fell off over winter.

It pushed new buds this spring, the lower single needle pair branch/bud is still hanging on and the rest of the growth hasn't gotten any worse.

ive got feed, seaweed, rhizotonic, mycorrhiza granules and calmag at my disposal.

I know Scotland probably isn't an ideal JBP climate and I'm moving to native species. My garden doesn't always get the best sun either, but am planning eventually on moving and hopefully having a better lit garden, poly tunnel etc.

I also had a quick bonus question. My more eatsblish JBP is doing well it seems but not pushing big candles and I am not sure if these are them just coming through now ?

Thanks all !








We have had an unusually hotter and drier spring in Scotland and would have expected it to have taken off a bit, but I did cut a lot of candles back last year (before really understanding the when and why).

Thanks

 

[NeedlesAndLeaves]

I live in the Netherlands with more or less a simular climate. Maybe a little less rain.

The substrate is not the best for a JBP because it will hold to much moisture.
It is a bit to late to repot espacially considering the health.

JBP drop needles after to years. But dus you pluck any needles? I can see only a view.

If so, this will weaken the tree.

The buds I see are very weak. Normally buds have extended to candles and needles this time of year.

I would advice to hold back on the watering till the top part feels dry. And let it be.

Pines do best in a lot of sun!

Good luck for it!

 

[apr]

I live in the Netherlands with more or less a simular climate. Maybe a little less rain.

The substrate is not the best for a JBP because it will hold to much moisture.
It is a bit to late to repot espacially considering the health.

JBP drop needles after to years. But dus you pluck any needles? I can see only a view.

If so, this will weaken the tree.

The buds I see are very weak. Normally buds have extended to candles and needles this time of year.

I would advice to hold back on the watering till the top part feels dry. And let it be.

Pines do best in a lot of sun!

Good luck for it!

No needles plucked, I recognised its not doing well so left it well alone.

I could repot in the summer but don't want to cause additional stress.

I got it last year it basically has looked the same since.

 

[NeedlesAndLeaves]

You can gently comb the soil without disturbing the roots and replace the substrate with inorganic open substrate.
I have done this without problems before.

 

[NeedlesAndLeaves]

Just to see the difference.
I have Black Pines in different stages.
This one is also a seedling but maybe a year older.

I hope it will come to strenght, but it will take a while.

 

[JeffS73]

Hi Folks

I've had this JBP sapling a year now and just wondering what I can do to help it do better.

View attachment 601782View attachment 601783View attachment 601784

We had a cold wet winter and it's in a mix with some organic matter. I've gone easier on the watering this year and it's been in full sun as best I can.

The candle extended and hardened off last year and all needles died and fell off over winter.

It pushed new buds this spring, the lower single needle pair branch/bud is still hanging on and the rest of the growth hasn't gotten any worse.

ive got feed, seaweed, rhizotonic, mycorrhiza granules and calmag at my disposal.

I know Scotland probably isn't an ideal JBP climate and I'm moving to native species. My garden doesn't always get the best sun either, but am planning eventually on moving and hopefully having a better lit garden, poly tunnel etc.

I also had a quick bonus question. My more eatsblish JBP is doing well it seems but not pushing big candles and I am not sure if these are them just coming through now ?

Thanks all !

View attachment 601779


View attachment 601780

View attachment 601781

We have had an unusually hotter and drier spring in Scotland and would have expected it to have taken off a bit, but I did cut a lot of candles back last year (before really understanding the when and why).

Thanks

Candle death is either drying out or soil too wet and roots rotted. Repot would prob kill it, just give it sun, let it dry out a bit then fully water. Don't give it loads of fert or other stuff, you'll just make it harder for what roots there are. Maybe poke about in the soil to see if there are any little grubs / larvae. It isn't looking too great.

 

[Shibui]

There's definitely a problem with the smaller pine and the more advanced tree should be producing better candles than that too.
I doubt the climate will be fully responsible. People successfully grow good JBP in far colder places than Scotland.

Agree that the problem is in the soil but whether it's because the roots are too wet or have been too dry or some other cause cannot be decided from photos of the top. Given you have had very wet winter it's more likely the roots are suffering root rot from too much water for too long.
Whenever I have any problems with roots because of soggy soil I'll repot, even out of season. Leaving a tree in soil that's causing problems and is full of root rot is just a recipe for further problems. While repotting does have some risk, I've found most plants pick up soon after getting better soil conditions. Repotting very young trees like this one is far less of a problem than doing the same to a much older tree.
The alternative is to make sure the soil is much drier until the tree either recovers or finally dies.

Fertiliser is NOT the answer for the little one at this stage and may even make problems worse.

 

[apr]

There's definitely a problem with the smaller pine and the more advanced tree should be producing better candles than that too.
I doubt the climate will be fully responsible. People successfully grow good JBP in far colder places than Scotland.

Agree that the problem is in the soil but whether it's because the roots are too wet or have been too dry or some other cause cannot be decided from photos of the top. Given you have had very wet winter it's more likely the roots are suffering root rot from too much water for too long.
Whenever I have any problems with roots because of soggy soil I'll repot, even out of season. Leaving a tree in soil that's causing problems and is full of root rot is just a recipe for further problems. While repotting does have some risk, I've found most plants pick up soon after getting better soil conditions. Repotting very young trees like this one is far less of a problem than doing the same to a much older tree.
The alternative is to make sure the soil is much drier until the tree either recovers or finally dies.

Fertiliser is NOT the answer for the little one at this stage and may even make problems worse.

Thanks

Have ordered some pumice and will investigate the roots and slip/repot when I can soon and see how it goes.

 

[cmeg1]

I would buy some new starters…….OR START YOUR OWN!! and this new attempt ph your water/nutrient solution……and if you do not have natural well water get a cheap RO FILTER that has a KDF filter to rid the tap water from chlorin/chloromine.

They will grow absolute better.

I have been in this situation.

2 pics
an un-monitered approach & a monitered and adjusted approach.
Both same age!!

From proper ph,pure water,not over-fertilizing,and some bio stimulant goodies.

Although co2 fertilizing was used,its the nutrients and water quality that keeps them alive!!

 

[cmeg1]

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Here is a good pdf( not brand promoting) that gives a basic understanding of this……a hydro media approach ( bonsai volcanic soil approach).

https://www.botanicare.com/wp-content/uploads/assets/QuarterlyPub2NPK.pdf

 

[cmeg1]

A used ro filter such as the one I posted and knowledge of how to check ec and mix your nutrient( the blue page on the pdf) are amazing for quality growth of plants.
Even ro your well water is awesome….if there is lots of sediment…perhaps a pre filter before the ro filter.IT ESSENTIALLY TURNS YOUR WATER TO PURE WATER/LIKE RAIN ….instead of mixing nutrient in water that is already having a 300/.6 early veg ec of usually too large and unuseable or clogging minerals and ions.
This is usually the main cause of having plants that are having too much salts in the nutrient solution and seem dehydrated…..because literally half the nutrient ec is not useable and lacks water hydration.

******Plants only enjoy extra salt and oil production in ripening or fruiting finishing stages to sweeten crops…….I dont think trees even need this****

*.My approach for trees is low nitrogen not exceeding .5 ec……..totaling out at no more than 1.2 ec all season…….and this is also from adding non nitrogen ions like magnesium sulphate/vitamin B for photosynthesis..

More water absorption from starting with a pure water so can use a very low ec.
Especially if adding the fulvic/humic acid powders that can enhance uptake by 20-30%

Can get by literally on .6 ec all season and trees are extremely healthy and very water hydrated and healthy.THIS IS BENEFIT OF PURE/RO TYPE WATER


Hope this helps

I am going to go out to the garden now and relax!