Japanese maple - where to take branch structure

[IsaM]

I picked up this Japanese Maple the other day. I like the tall slender trunk and the gentle movement in it. I recognise the trunk isnt perfect and could do with some more taper, however, I'm really happy with that element of it and don't have any particular desires to do a major trunk chop and regrow the apex/start a longer term redevelopment of the tree.

What I would really like some thoughts on is the branch structure. There's a couple of issues which to me eye feel obvious, the first being the branches all extend out a similar distance from the trunk all the way up the tree, which to me doesnt look natural. I also don't love the current "double apex" which you can see best in the "back" pic. Will likely get rid of the right hand one so that the apex moves with the rest of the trunk. Other than that, I'm not really sure where to take this and would welcome the wise BonsaiNut thoughts!

Few pictures from all angles and one to show relative size.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

The length of the branches and the double apex isn't an issue in my eye. If you want to keep the tree as is, prune off one of the apexs and differentially prune the branches to get the sape you desire.

To me, the styling flaw is the trunk having virtually no taper past the first couple inches. To fix that a series of trunk chops is indicated.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Johnnyd]

Looks like a possible twin trunk might work. In addition I might reduce the height of both trees to create taper. Looks like a fun project. Also there a some knuckles that are starting to form from too many buds at one spot. Remember to remove the excess buds in the areas that are beginning to thicken.

 

[Kodama]

Nice...I see two trees with air layer.

 

[Shibui]

You like the trunk as is. That's fine so you should keep it and not follow the crowd to chop and grow a tapered tree.
Branches are the issue and you are correct that they are all about the same size, probably because they are all around the same age.
The problem is getting lower branches to grow faster and longer than top branches. The tree wants to grow the other way and will put most effort into the top. Your job will be to discourage growth at the top and encourage lower branches. Pruning and pinching will be the most useful tool for this. Trim new shoots at the top as soon as they have a pair of leaves but allow shoots to grow longer down low. Extra leaves result in extra growth and extra thickening so the low branches should get longer and thicker.
Results will not be instant. It could take 3-5 years before you see much difference. Annual photos help you see the incremental change and provide feedback that it is happening.

Selective defoliation can also help promote growth in some parts of the tree so occasional defoliation of stronger, upper branches while leaving foliage on lower branches will also boos lower growth and development.

Beware of multiple shoots on JM. you already have lots of branches growing opposite each other on that trunk. That's a recipe for localised thickening which we call reverse taper. Swellings can get out of hand quickly on JM and really spoil the trunk. As you trim and prune lost of new shoots are likely to grow in clusters around existing branch base and from other nodes. Make sure you remove these as soon as possible as even small shoots can cause swelling.

 

[bwaynef]

The uniformity of branching is easily solved with pruners in some areas (top) as well as judicious restraint from using them in some areas (lower). I think now's the time to set the branches (that aren't removed, ...and there are lots of multiple branches that should be as pointed out above) with wire to give some consistency to the branch angles. They're all over the place.

There could be more taper, but letting the low branches run a bit ought to slowly introduce some of that. Good repotting work will also accentuate the taper.

 

[IsaM]

Thanks all, lots of helpful stuff.

@bwaynef can I please ask you to clarify what you mean when you say “good repotting work will accentuate the taper”?

 

[bwaynef]

@bwaynef can I please ask you to clarify what you mean when you say “good repotting work will accentuate the taper”?

The flare of the nebari is fostered by favoring outward-growing (as opposed to downward-growing) roots as well as a a shallow pot. You won't see a huge difference right away, but it adds up.

 

[IsaM]

Ah understand what you meant - the nebari helps create that image of taper, makes sense!

Thanks again.