JAPAN TRIP PART 1 [OMIYA BONSAI VILLAGE]

MACH5

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I recently came back from an exciting trip to Japan. I was there on business for over a week but managed to get a couple of days to myself. Fortunately, my trip coincided with one of Bill Valavanis' Japan tours happening that same week. I asked him if he would mind if I joined him and his group for a small portion of it. He agreed! I am very thankful to him because this gave me the opportunity to visit places I would have never been able to go by myself.

My agenda with Bill was as follows:

DAY 1: Bonsai village in Omiya
DAY 2: Kunio Kobayashi's Shunka-en garden and museum outside of Tokyo
DAY 3: Taikan-ten bonsai exhibition in Kyoto

I will post 3 different threads focusing on each of the days respectively. My intent is to try and bring you along with me and experience what I saw as best as is possible through photography. Needless to say, this was a memorable trip for me and one I will not soon forget. Let us travel to Japan!

On a bright and beautiful morning at 9am Friday, November 13th, I anxiously waited at the gate at Newark airport for my plane bound for Narita Airport in Tokyo, Japan.








After a 14+ hour flight, we finally approached Narita Airport on an overcast Saturday afternoon.






In Japan, many things are well organized and seem to run smoothly, including the luggage carousel at the airport where a baggage handler pulls the luggage out while you wait behind the line.






On my first day joining Bill's tour, we took a bus to Omiya Bonsai Village at 8am. The agenda for the day was packed! We were to visit the gardens of Morimae's S-Cube, Kimura, the Omiya Bonsai Museum, Mansei-en, Kyuka-en, Seikou-en and end the day at Fuyo-en.

On the way, Bill informed us of what we were about to see that day and kept us engaged and entertained with lots of interesting bonsai related information.






MORIMAE'S S-CUBE

After about an hour, we arrived at the famous S-Cube garden of Mr. Seiji Morimae. As we approached his nursery, we could see from the highway one of the best and largest bonsai collections in Japan, recently purchased from the late Mr. Daizo Iwasaki.






As we arrived, Mr. Morimae was anxious to show us his entire Iwasaki collection which has been temporarily placed in an empty lot adjacent to his nursery. The ground was really muddy so it was a bit difficult getting to see some of the trees up close. Most were huge Japanese black pines but there were many other varieties in the collection including many maples and beech. I was told some of the trees had been styled by Kimura in the past.











 















After about 45 minutes, we were led to the S-Cube nursery close by. Here, it looked like Mr. Morimae was convincing Bill to buy his collection for five billion dollars...I think he thought about it for a second! :D






As we walked towards the entrance of the S-Cube garden, the outside grounds did not hint at all as to what was actually inside!






The entrance to the famous S-Cube garden.






Inside there were many outstanding trees and bonsai masterpieces. A great variety of species, from conifers to maples to flowering and fruiting trees.





 

















A large selection of pots were also available at very reasonable prices.






And inside, there were many high end suiseki and Chinese pottery.






It was time to leave and head next to Mr. Kimura's garden. Yuki, our stellar translator who spoke many languages, was a very welcome addition to the group and one of the nicest people I have ever met. Here, she is seen on the right of the picture.






KIMURA

After about a thirty minute ride, we arrived at the garden of arguably the most famous bonsai artist of all time and, suffice it to say, this garden needs no introduction. As we approached, the entrance itself was rather plain and understated in sharp contrast to what was about to be revealed inside.



 
The garden was full of powerful and dynamic trees. Many were big and magnificent! Overall, Mr. Kimura's collection was perhaps not the largest compared to other gardens I had seen on my trip, but it certainly was unforgettable!
























Towards the back, there was a stunning garden with landscape trees that were seemingly just as manicured and cared for as the bonsai themselves. A large pond was the centerpiece of the garden which housed many large yellow carps.



 













Some of my favorite works by Mr. Kimura are the series of landscape plantings that form a good portion of his total oeuvre.

One of them and, probably his most famous, graced the entrance to his garden. It is composed with a type of dwarf hinoki cypress. This piece took me by surprise not only because I am so familiar with it through pictures, but also because of its smaller than expected scale. To be sure, it is a large piece, but not as big as I originally thought. Absolutely incredible nonetheless!












Many other plantings were displayed in the same area and looked like either hinoki cypresses or junipers were used to compose these masterpieces.





 





Deciduous, flowering and fruiting bonsai all were the exception rather than the rule in the garden. Regardless, they were all beautiful and styled with the same deftness as the conifers for which Mr. Kimura is so famous.














Mr. Kimura's office displaying many of his awards on the walls. Large sliding glass doors look over the beautiful and serene garden.






After about an hour or so it was time to head over to the Omiya Bonsai Museum. As we were leaving, Mr. Kimura thanked us all for coming. He was very gracious and allowed us to explore his garden and take as many pictures as we wanted.






OMIYA BONSAI MUSEUM

This was one place I have always wanted to see. In part because of its modern structure based in traditional Japanese architecture, but also because of its well known bonsai collection and indoor display alcoves. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed in many areas including all indoor displays with the exception of the museum lobby. The museum is not big but I think well designed inside and out.

The entrance to the museum.






A long corridor leads towards the main doors and lobby.






The lobby is spacious and modern. A tastefully arranged grouping of Ilex Serrata greets visitors upon entering.



 
Large windows in the lobby overlook a large courtyard that features many masterpiece bonsai and a pond.






After viewing all the indoor displays which were quite elegant and beautiful, we went outside where some photography was allowed.
















A second floor terrace offered a dramatic view of the garden with the pond. We were not allowed pictures from here either but I was able to sneak a couple ;)

 
As we left the museum, we headed over to a nearby restaurant to have lunch. Afterwards, we walked a few blocks towards Mansei-en and I could not help but take a photo of this house with its terrace full of bonsai. Unsure as to whom it belonged to, it nevertheless seemed to be a very nice collection! Leading the way in the red coat is Kora Dalager who conducts the Japan tours in conjunction with Bill.








MANSEI-EN

This garden is at the heart of the Omiya Bonsai Village and renown the world over. It is owned and operated by Mr. Hatsuji Kato and his son, Haruhiko. Hatsuji is the son of the late and great Mr. Saburo Kato. The nursery houses many bonsai masterpieces as well as a great variety of species.

It was starting to rain, so it posed a challenge for some of us taking pictures. Mansei-en's entrance, like many other gardens, was simple and understated.






The garden was replete with world class trees. So full that it was difficult to take pictures of any one tree unless it was located next to the main pathway.



















 























In a special place within the garden, there was a large forest groupings of Ezo spruces that were meant to resemble a coastline arrangement which was a product of Mr. Saburo Kato's vision. It was created many years ago and still well maintained in its original form by his son. Ezo spruce was a beloved species of Saburo. Adjacent to this area was another large grouping of several plantings of beech creating a striking sprawling deciduous forest in miniature.



 
Leaving Mansei-en and walking over to our next garden, Seikou-en, I saw this sign post with a handy map of the bonsai village which indicated clearly where everything was located.






SEIKOU-EN

This is the garden of Tomio Yamada, another prominent figure in the Japanese bonsai scene. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to photograph much of anything. I did at least get the entrance shown below. This garden was much smaller than others, but I thought it was arranged and trees displayed with elegance and aesthetics in mind. Although no pictures to show for here, it was well worth the visit.






KYUKA-EN

Kyuzo Murata founded Kyuka-en back in 1926 and is considered the father of modern bonsai in Japan. Interestingly, he was also one of Bill's bonsai teachers back in the day. Today, the garden is run by Yukio Murata, the grandson of Kyuzo.

It started to rain again while we were at Kyuka-en which made it very difficult to take pictures. Below are just a couple that Bill graciously lent me for this report. The few I took were all blurry and no good. My understanding is that this garden has seen better days and does not posses quite the vitality that it once had.


photo courtesy of Bill Valavanis


photo courtesy of Bill Valavanis




FUYO-EN

To conclude our busy day in Omiya, we ended it at none other than Fuyo-en. Mr. Hiroshi Takeyama is the proprietor of the garden. He is the grand master of deciduous bonsai in Japan and one garden that I personally could not wait to see! Sadly, he was not there at the time we visited and I missed my chance to meet the man. Of all the nurseries we saw, Fuyo-en had probably the most diverse selection of species.

By this time, the rain had abated somewhat and made it possible to take pictures again. We were losing daylight and, with all the wet trees, it made it difficult to portray how spectacular this garden truly is. Even so, I think the photos still show its great beauty.















 









From a balcony we could get a beautiful bird's eye view of the entire garden.








Mr. Takeyama's famous sargent juniper.






This concluded the Omiya day trip. I hope you enjoyed it and were able to get a sense of what it is like to be at the various gardens. Please stay-tuned for the DAY 2: SHUNKA-EN thread!
 









From a balcony we could get a beautiful bird's eye view of the entire garden.








Mr. Takeyama's famous sargent juniper.






This concluded the Omiya day trip. I hope you enjoyed it and were able to get a sense of what it is like to be at the various gardens. Please stay-tuned for the DAY 2: SHUNKA-EN thread!
Really great photos! Thanks.
 
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