Is this okay for a GENERAL systemic pesticide?

[Mike Corazzi]

I'm a member of a local bonsai GROUP in our close community as well as a member of the BIG club.

At the LOCAL meet yesterday, the mod suggested Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus, and Vegetable Insect Control.

It's Imidacloprid 0.23% and I'd like this forum's opinion on 2 things:
Is it okay for a GENERAL multi tree (pine, olive, elm, juniper, maple) sytemic
and
what % dilution would you suggest if it is okay for the general use I'm seeking?

Thanks all

 

[JudyB]

I use the Bayer Tree and Shrub protect and feed granular, on all of my trees, no problem. Not sure if the solution is exact, but the ingredient you list is the one in mine. As mine is granular I can't help you with the dilution, but I would read the directions and go with that.

 

[base797]

When Peter Tea was in my garden, he recommended Merit .5G for a systemic pesticide and Clearys 333??? for fungicide. Both are granular and applied every 3 months. I have not had any problems since adopting that practice, but never had much of a pest problem. I just went to get the details (active ingredient and the full cleary product info), but too many trees in the way at the moment due to shuffling trees inside cuz of a snow storm. I'll be able to get to them tomorrow or Sunday, so pm me if you want more info.

Patrik

 

[base797]

Oh, I put it on everything.

 

[markyscott]

What bugs are you having problems with?

 

[coh]

I'm pretty sure the active ingredient is the same in both Merit and Bayer (imidacloprid), though the concentrations probably differ.

I have used the Bayer liquid concentrate on many trees without any noticeable problems. Mostly for scale and it seems to work pretty well. The problem with the liquid concentrate is they don't give good dosing directions for container plants. The doses are based on either trunk size for in-ground trees, or gallons of substrate for container plants. I guess you can roughly figure out the size of your bonsai container and use that amount.

Someone here, maybe Crust, had recommended a certain dilution rate but I can't remember exactly what he used (3 tablespoons per gallon perhaps). I've used up to several tablespoons per gallon of water without problems. I think with bonsai soil, you might have to apply more often since the soil is so porous.

Haven't tried the granular form so can't really comment on that.

 

[Mike Corazzi]

What bugs are you having problems with?

Mostly aphids right now. The scale hasn't found the olive yet this year.
And I'm GUESSING aphids because I'm seeing ants running around the limbs.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I think it would work fine for the species you listed,

Technically the only correct answer is if the species of plant or family of plants is listed on the label as safe to use it on, then it can be used on that species. If it is not listed as safe for a species or a category of species, it technically is not legal to use it. Similarly the target pest has to be listed on the label. The label on a pesticide package carries the weight of law as to how it is to be used. Please read labels, and don't buy pesticides that have been re-packaged by friends without labels. Or if you do, download off the web the correct label, read it, print it out and keep a copy with the unlabeled product. It is important to read the entire label, and follow the application directions. - ok - technical rant over.

Imidiproclid has been used at various strengths for all the species you listed to the best of my knowledge. Should be safe. Imidiproclid will not help with spider mites or false mites, it only kills insects, mites are arachnids (spider relatives). In some situations Imidiproclid will attract mites, thus making a new problem, but where this happens has not been demonstrated in potted plants, only in landscape plants, and not all the time. But you need to have the label and read it, to know what dilution or dose rate you need to use, it comes in many different concentrations, even from the same manufacturer. Bayer has over a dozen different concentrations and forms of the chemical, each with different use instructions.

 

[markyscott]

Mostly aphids right now. The scale hasn't found the olive yet this year.
And I'm GUESSING aphids because I'm seeing ants running around the limbs.

Bayer would likely be effective against aphids, but they're a problem that a strong blast of water will take care of.

 

[carp]

Bayer would likely be effective against aphids, but they're a problem that a strong blast of water will take care of.

Lmfao even Sevin....if u feel the need to spray.

 

[bonsaibp]

I would not use on any trees that flower- Imidiproclid is highly toxic to bees. We use it on junipers, pines etc though at 1 tablespoon to a gallon.

 

[Mike Corazzi]

Bayer would likely be effective against aphids, but they're a problem that a strong blast of water will take care of.

THAT'S what I'm looking for. I know a blast of water will knock em off but I want to get the FIRST ones who start sucking and attract the ants who "manage" them.
I kinda wondered why anyone would use a systemic that didn't get aphids.
Kinda disappointed that it won'd do spider mites. Not that I've had any problem since getting my pines out of akadama and into a lava mix but they WERE there and I Safer soaped em to death.
Glad to know it will probably upset aphids.

 

[Mike Corazzi]

I would not use on any trees that flower- Imidiproclid is highly toxic to bees. We use it on junipers, pines etc though at 1 tablespoon to a gallon.

Thanks for the ratio. Sounds conservative and thus safe.