GroveBonsai
Mame
I made a virtual. Thanks for the idea. I will post on update when i attempt the bend. I’m thinking I’ll do it in October next year if everything goes well with the tree.
Is this High grafted Mugo Pine trash
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I made a virtual. Thanks for the idea. I will post on update when i attempt the bend. I’m thinking I’ll do it in October next year if everything goes well with the tree.
yes indeed but it’s maybe a bit extreme , anywayz you need to make the bend first, it will depend on how much you can bent it.
personally I would plant the angle so that the bend part still has the lean to the right and does not come back over the trunk but that’s maybe just my preference..
Leo in N E Illinois
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@Peter44 & anyone relatively new to bonsai.
When pruning most pines, junipers and many conifers and a fair number of deciduous trees, when you remove a branch, you leave a long stub. This helps avoid die back. Then during the following year, the tree re-routes life lines, and then after the following growing season the branch can be cut flush without fear of die back. Or in the case of pines and junipers, turn the stumps into jin. This technique is important where there is a direct connection from root to a specific branch. If the branch is cut short, flush with the trunk, the life line that fed the branch will die, leaving a shari (dead stripe) down the trunk to and including the root. If that root fed more than one branch, but the branch that was cut was the largest of the the group, there is the risk that the other branches on the same life line might die. By leaving a long stub, for one or two growing seasons, the life line reroutes, and the root is usually preserved and you usually don't cause shari on the trunk to form. This is a juniper and mugo pine technique. It extends to a lesser degree to other pines. I am not certain about whether this 2 step process for branch removal is necessary for spruce, but I pretty much do all my conifer pruning in this 2 step fashion. Usually I create jin the second year, but sometimes I cut flush.
When pruning most pines, junipers and many conifers and a fair number of deciduous trees, when you remove a branch, you leave a long stub. This helps avoid die back. Then during the following year, the tree re-routes life lines, and then after the following growing season the branch can be cut flush without fear of die back. Or in the case of pines and junipers, turn the stumps into jin. This technique is important where there is a direct connection from root to a specific branch. If the branch is cut short, flush with the trunk, the life line that fed the branch will die, leaving a shari (dead stripe) down the trunk to and including the root. If that root fed more than one branch, but the branch that was cut was the largest of the the group, there is the risk that the other branches on the same life line might die. By leaving a long stub, for one or two growing seasons, the life line reroutes, and the root is usually preserved and you usually don't cause shari on the trunk to form. This is a juniper and mugo pine technique. It extends to a lesser degree to other pines. I am not certain about whether this 2 step process for branch removal is necessary for spruce, but I pretty much do all my conifer pruning in this 2 step fashion. Usually I create jin the second year, but sometimes I cut flush.
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