I see some roots popping through top of soil, repot?

[power270lb]

Received this ginseng grafted I believe curtain fig in December. Main branch below the split came broken, was going to send back but got some wire and mended it. Within a week it had new growth and this tree is the reason I dove head first into this world. In my setup it's exploded, added 8-9" on the main branch. Starting to see some roots pop through the surface a bit. Assumed it came from the nursery repotted and I'd be good. The tree is wired in and as I'm writing this I honestly don't know how to take it out without disturbing everything. It's like once I commit that's it I'm repotting. Don't really have a direction in mind for the tree just want it to grow but aerial roots would be cool. Just wondering what you guys think if I should repot or not and any suggestions on shape, trimming anything at all I'd greatly appreciate. This community has been amazing and I can't thank everyone enough for the help they've given me.

 

[Shibui]

Left alone ficus will just grow longer and longer. Pruning is required if you want to have a bushier tree with more branches.

Many ficus naturally grow aerial roots so roots emerging from the soil is not an indication that repotting is necessary. I have seen ficus that have grown in the same pot for many years without repotting. They can cope with that.
You should be able to cut the wires holding the tree in the pot to get it out of the pot. You have not included a photo of the pot so can't comment if it will come out easy. If the pot is wider at the top the whole root ball should just slip out of the pot intact and slide back in if you don't need to do anything. Usually the roots will hold the soil together while you check root condition.
I usually test for root bound by pressing on the soil. If it gives a little there's still plenty of room for new roots. If the soil is rock hard it is probably pretty packed with roots and ready for repot. This method may not suit some soil types.

Better to wait for warmer weather for repot for ficus but if your room is nice and warm it will probably be OK to repot sooner.

 

[power270lb]

Left alone ficus will just grow longer and longer. Pruning is required if you want to have a bushier tree with more branches.

Many ficus naturally grow aerial roots so roots emerging from the soil is not an indication that repotting is necessary. I have seen ficus that have grown in the same pot for many years without repotting. They can cope with that.
You should be able to cut the wires holding the tree in the pot to get it out of the pot. You have not included a photo of the pot so can't comment if it will come out easy. If the pot is wider at the top the whole root ball should just slip out of the pot intact and slide back in if you don't need to do anything. Usually the roots will hold the soil together while you check root condition.
I usually test for root bound by pressing on the soil. If it gives a little there's still plenty of room for new roots. If the soil is rock hard it is probably pretty packed with roots and ready for repot. This method may not suit some soil types.

Better to wait for warmer weather for repot for ficus but if your room is nice and warm it will probably be OK to repot sooner.

Copy that thank you for the reply. So if I want a bushier tree if it were you where would you cut? Also included a pic of the pot or would u like from the bottom also?

 

[Shibui]

I saw the pot shape on the other thread. It has a good wide top and tapered sides so the root ball will just slide out really easy if you can cut the wires. Just tip off all the surface stones before you turn it upside down so you can put them back after.

This is a ficus. You can cut anywhere and it will grow new shoots.
Given it has a pretty skinny trunk maybe something like this?

New growth will grow up so cutting really short is only temporary. It will quickly grow back to a slightly larger tree.

If that is too confronting try cutting higher until you are comfortable that it will grow back after pruning. This tree can be any shape you want so you just decide where to cut.

These ficus are usually grafted. I think the graft is where the 3 lowest small shoots are growing. Branches from below the graft are usually different. Sometimes they can grow faster and stronger than the top and take over. If the leaves on those low shoots look a little different you should probably cut. break them off so the grafted section stays strong.

 

[power270lb]

I saw the pot shape on the other thread. It has a good wide top and tapered sides so the root ball will just slide out really easy if you can cut the wires. Just tip off all the surface stones before you turn it upside down so you can put them back after.

This is a ficus. You can cut anywhere and it will grow new shoots.
Given it has a pretty skinny trunk maybe something like this?
View attachment 363566
New growth will grow up so cutting really short is only temporary. It will quickly grow back to a slightly larger tree.

If that is too confronting try cutting higher until you are comfortable that it will grow back after pruning. This tree can be any shape you want so you just decide where to cut.

These ficus are usually grafted. I think the graft is where the 3 lowest small shoots are growing. Branches from below the graft are usually different. Sometimes they can grow faster and stronger than the top and take over. If the leaves on those low shoots look a little different you should probably cut. break them off so the grafted section stays strong.

Oh wow that's a major chop lol, would the other branches root? I think the graft is where the ginseng roots are and it's just slipped in. If I wanted aerial roots I've read everything from cover tree in a plastic bag to make some carvings then wrap in sphagnum and use a straw to carve at the bottom and cover in peat moss with a plastic bag. Easier to just buy a tree with them lol but what's your experience with aerial roots?

 

[Shibui]

It is a major chop. Cutting that much usually frightens beginners. My experience shows me it would be OK and bring the whole tree more into reasonable perspective - more tree shaped - where it is now a long thin thing.
You do not need to do what anyone suggests. Make sure you are comfortable when making any major decisions with bonsai as there is no going back from most decisions like that. Trunk reduction can still be done next year or the year after if you do decide to go that way so there is no pressure to act immediately (or even at all)

Ficus are generally quite easy to strike as cuttings and even quit thick branches can strike and become new trees.

Aerial roots generally happen when humidity is high. All the suggestions you have seen are to make humidity high around the trunk. My figs live year round in an unheated poly tunnel green house. It is closed up all winter to hold the heat and so humidity is high. Also watered profusely in summer so humidity is high. Some years I get prolific aerial roots, sometimes none. Aerials can stop or even die if the air gets dry. I have seen some growers use a drinking straw to provide help for aerials that have started but I can't really see straight vertical aerial roots being the next fad in ficus bonsai.
Some species seem to produce them far easier than others. I have not grown ginseng fig so not sure how easily it will develop aerial roots.
Aerial roots can sometimes look good but often end up looking terrible.

That join is what prompted me to comment about grafts. The 2 small shoots are growing from the root stock. Consider cutting them off before they grow big. The leaves will look different from the top so keeping them will only make the tree look even more strange. They often grow faster than the graft and can eventually kill it.

 

[power270lb]

It is a major chop. Cutting that much usually frightens beginners. My experience shows me it would be OK and bring the whole tree more into reasonable perspective - more tree shaped - where it is now a long thin thing.
You do not need to do what anyone suggests. Make sure you are comfortable when making any major decisions with bonsai as there is no going back from most decisions like that. Trunk reduction can still be done next year or the year after if you do decide to go that way so there is no pressure to act immediately (or even at all)

Ficus are generally quite easy to strike as cuttings and even quit thick branches can strike and become new trees.

Aerial roots generally happen when humidity is high. All the suggestions you have seen are to make humidity high around the trunk. My figs live year round in an unheated poly tunnel green house. It is closed up all winter to hold the heat and so humidity is high. Also watered profusely in summer so humidity is high. Some years I get prolific aerial roots, sometimes none. Aerials can stop or even die if the air gets dry. I have seen some growers use a drinking straw to provide help for aerials that have started but I can't really see straight vertical aerial roots being the next fad in ficus bonsai.
Some species seem to produce them far easier than others. I have not grown ginseng fig so not sure how easily it will develop aerial roots.
Aerial roots can sometimes look good but often end up looking terrible.

That join is what prompted me to comment about grafts. The 2 small shoots are growing from the root stock. Consider cutting them off before they grow big. The leaves will look different from the top so keeping them will only make the tree look even more strange. They often grow faster than the graft and can eventually kill it.

Omg wow, shows how new I am I didn't even think about that (being two separate trees). How could it kill it exactly? So in regards to the roots popping through I attached a pic. I usually put a skewer in to see if the soil is dry, soil isn't giving and unless I force it in it just won't go in. Going to dig out some soil and get a better look. If I were to make these chops, what's the best way to root the cuttings? My elms I put in 2/3 perlite and 1/3 Fox farms ocean soil, willows just straight water even soft cuttings rooted. Would I cover in a plastic bag as well?

 

[power270lb]

It is a major chop. Cutting that much usually frightens beginners. My experience shows me it would be OK and bring the whole tree more into reasonable perspective - more tree shaped - where it is now a long thin thing.
You do not need to do what anyone suggests. Make sure you are comfortable when making any major decisions with bonsai as there is no going back from most decisions like that. Trunk reduction can still be done next year or the year after if you do decide to go that way so there is no pressure to act immediately (or even at all)

Ficus are generally quite easy to strike as cuttings and even quit thick branches can strike and become new trees.

Aerial roots generally happen when humidity is high. All the suggestions you have seen are to make humidity high around the trunk. My figs live year round in an unheated poly tunnel green house. It is closed up all winter to hold the heat and so humidity is high. Also watered profusely in summer so humidity is high. Some years I get prolific aerial roots, sometimes none. Aerials can stop or even die if the air gets dry. I have seen some growers use a drinking straw to provide help for aerials that have started but I can't really see straight vertical aerial roots being the next fad in ficus bonsai.
Some species seem to produce them far easier than others. I have not grown ginseng fig so not sure how easily it will develop aerial roots.
Aerial roots can sometimes look good but often end up looking terrible.

That join is what prompted me to comment about grafts. The 2 small shoots are growing from the root stock. Consider cutting them off before they grow big. The leaves will look different from the top so keeping them will only make the tree look even more strange. They often grow faster than the graft and can eventually kill it.

Cut them, worth planting? Also pulled the rocks away and this thing is pretty compact man. This is the next biggest pot I have but it's huge. I'm afraid to mess with the roots, what would you do?

 

[Shibui]

Really hard soil indicates either poor soil mix or full of roots or both. In both cases repotting is good. Lucky that ficus is so tough. Most other species would be dead by now.
There is no need to be afraid of roots. Ficus are really tough. I can cut off 90% of all roots and the ficus will still grow when replanted. Best time for ficus root prune is in warm weather so maybe wait a few weeks before doing that.
The pot is still a good size for that tree (when it is chopped). You should just cut off around 1/2 of the root and soil, rake the soil a little then place back in the pot with enough fresh bonsai soil to replace what was removed. In bonsai we often keep putting a tree back into the same pot for many years. Just reduce roots every few years and repot back into the same pot with fresh soil and there is room for more roots for another 2-5 years.
Bonsai are usually tied into the pot so they don't wobble before new roots grow.
Repotting, root pruning, tie bonsai in pot and soils are some things you should research while waiting for a good time to do that.

Those cuttings should grow. You can strike ficus in water like willows or in the perlite mix for elms. Ficus will strike almost anywhere. Plastic bag will usually speed up rooting and possibly increase strike rates.

Grafted trees are usually joined onto a faster growing stronger root system to give the tree some extra strength. When shoots from the understock grow they usually grow way faster than the top section. If shoots from stock get bigger than the top they can shade it and compete for water and food from roots. Eventually the grafted section will die.
If the graft is not healed well food and water can go better to the shoots below the graft. At some stage the tree may stop sending food and water through the graft and it will die. Take off the shoots and the tree has no choice. More food and water going through the graft will help heal the join and make better connection between the 2 parts.

 

[power270lb]

Really hard soil indicates either poor soil mix or full of roots or both. In both cases repotting is good. Lucky that ficus is so tough. Most other species would be dead by now.
There is no need to be afraid of roots. Ficus are really tough. I can cut off 90% of all roots and the ficus will still grow when replanted. Best time for ficus root prune is in warm weather so maybe wait a few weeks before doing that.
The pot is still a good size for that tree (when it is chopped). You should just cut off around 1/2 of the root and soil, rake the soil a little then place back in the pot with enough fresh bonsai soil to replace what was removed. In bonsai we often keep putting a tree back into the same pot for many years. Just reduce roots every few years and repot back into the same pot with fresh soil and there is room for more roots for another 2-5 years.
Bonsai are usually tied into the pot so they don't wobble before new roots grow.
Repotting, root pruning, tie bonsai in pot and soils are some things you should research while waiting for a good time to do that.

Those cuttings should grow. You can strike ficus in water like willows or in the perlite mix for elms. Ficus will strike almost anywhere. Plastic bag will usually speed up rooting and possibly increase strike rates.

Grafted trees are usually joined onto a faster growing stronger root system to give the tree some extra strength. When shoots from the understock grow they usually grow way faster than the top section. If shoots from stock get bigger than the top they can shade it and compete for water and food from roots. Eventually the grafted section will die.
If the graft is not healed well food and water can go better to the shoots below the graft. At some stage the tree may stop sending food and water through the graft and it will die. Take off the shoots and the tree has no choice. More food and water going through the graft will help heal the join and make better connection between the 2 parts.

Soil mix it's in is mostly a combo of akadama and fir bark it's just crazy it's filled the pot this much. Idk why I assumed nurseries would take an order then have everything good for a few years. This is my first root prune so I'm gonna take your advice and wait a few weeks. It hit 82 the other day but then dropped to 40s at night (trees are still inside).

Lol I thought it'd make the tree bigger letting the bottom part grow, tbh that part grew much smaller than the rest. Gotten some good advice and after the repot I'm gonna do the chop.