hydrogen peroxide 35% on Jin and dry wood

bonsai-max

Shohin
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Hi there, here someone use hydrogen peroxide@35% instead of jin liquid, seems that give a more natural color to the wood, not the bright white.
Any experience or suggestion about this usage ?
 
H202 at this concentration is very corrosive and hazardous and not available at retail so probably not used for bonsai. This product is used in industrial applications, and mold remediation. It can bleach and dry out the wood and is more hazardous than lime sulfur. Wood with mold growth is also be sprayed with H2O2 and scrubbed. The end product looks bleached, dry and cracked. I would not want that look on deadwood or risk damage to the living tissue of a tree.
 
H202 at this concentration is very corrosive and hazardous and not available at retail so probably not used for bonsai. This product is used in industrial applications, and mold remediation. It can bleach and dry out the wood and is more hazardous than lime sulfur. Wood with mold growth is also be sprayed with H2O2 and scrubbed. The end product looks bleached, dry and cracked. I would not want that look on deadwood or risk damage to the living tissue of a tree.
Here you can buy this H2O2 in pharmacy without prescription and usually is used during restoration of old furniture.
There is also a usage of 1:10 ratio with water to disinfect the whole tree, about the dry wood it should give a more natural gray color to the wood, I will try some small spot.
 

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Just don’t mix hydrogen peroxide with vinegar. Note: When combined, they create peracetic acid, a highly corrosive and potentially toxic substance. Peracetic acid can irritate the throat, lungs, eyes, and skin.
 
I guess the biggest difference is that hydrogen peroxide is more of a topical application. You apply it, it oxidizes, the wood lightens, and within a short time (minutes) you are back to untreated (albeit lightened) wood. Any fungus on the surface of the wood when you treat it is probably killed, but there is no lasting protection.

When I apply lime sulfur to exposed wood, it isn't to lighten the wood (per se) but to preserve it. It is a strong anti-fungal and remains on/in the wood grain, protecting it for a year or two.

(@leatherback and I posted more or less the same thing at the same time)
 
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Just don’t mix hydrogen peroxide with vinegar. Note: When combined, they create peracetic acid, a highly corrosive and potentially toxic substance. Peracetic acid can irritate the throat, lungs, eyes, and skin.
Zerotol, a fungicide/bactericide, is H2O2 (@ about 30% ...from memory) & peracetic acid (@ about 2-3%).
 
I love H2O2 and use it in my daily life as I have for decades. No one, except researchers, should ever use, or have access to, a 35% solution .... IMO.
We all need stomach acid, but we don't consume dangerous levels.
 
You can mix India ink into your lime Sulphur to give it a more natural look, and still have the added benefit of protecting the deadwood from mold and bacteria that would cause it to rot. For trees other than juniper which generally the white is desirable, this is the route I would go.
 
To preserve the wood once have reach a proper stage of "old look" i use paraloid B72, it's practical and once dried doesn't change the wood aspect or color, making the wood very hard.
Both the B72 and 35% H2O2 are used to preserve and cure old wood on furniture.
But yes the jin liquid disinfect for long term and the CA inside slowly make the wood harder.
 
Back when I cleaned rooms at a fancy boutique hotel we used 16% hydrogen peroxide to sanitize the sheets and if you got it on your skin it would cause these painful white burns. I can't even imagine working with 35% peroxide.
 
Here you can buy this H2O2 in pharmacy without prescription and usually is used during restoration of old furniture.
There is also a usage of 1:10 ratio with water to disinfect the whole tree, about the dry wood it should give a more natural gray color to the wood, I will try some small spot.
I’ve never heard of H2O2 in woodworking, but you learn something new every day, how is it used?

I think you’re confusing Zerotol(35% strength H2O2) and 3% H2O2 from the store. The adage of “too much of a good thing” here applies. The concentration of 35% is still watered down when we use it as a root wash for anti-fungal treatment, and is quite corrosive and dangerous in its undiluted form, so handle with care. Rubber, non-reactive gloves, and a mask and protective clothing is a must, even while making your dilution. Ever put store bought peroxide on a cut and watched the oxygen bubbles form? Now imagine if 35% peroxide touches your skin!!!!

Store bought 3% H2O2 is already weak enough to handle and can be used, again as a watered down, light antifungal treatment, and it will also help with some types of bugs.

H2O2 is an oxygenater regardless the strength, if you have root rot in a tree, an application, at the right dosage can kill off the bacteria/fungus causing the rot, and provide oxygen to the soil and roots.

I’ve never seen/herd/ or used it myself for deadwood.

That being said, like sulfur can be diluted with water to very light concentrations and reapplied in an additive manner until the desired effect is achieved. Take a standard dilution of lime sulfur, cut it in half, or do even a 25% mix of an already diluted-from-the bottle application, and you will get a weaker response that won’t be that stark white I think your trying to avoid, and if it’s not enough, let it dry and reapply
 
I think you’re confusing Zerotol(35% strength H2O2) and 3% H2O2 from the store. The adage of “too much of a good thing” here applies. The concentration of 35% is still watered down when we use it as a root wash for anti-fungal treatment, and is quite corrosive and dangerous in its undiluted form, so handle with care. Rubber, non-reactive gloves, and a mask and protective clothing is a must, even while making your dilution. Ever put store bought peroxide on a cut and watched the oxygen bubbles form? Now imagine if 35% peroxide touches your skin!!!!
No I am sure H2O2 at 35% or 120 volume. I saw the use in a couple of bonsai club north of Italy and was curious if someone here have experience.
I saw some plants threated, the wood cracks more fast than the usual time/weather option but still looks very natural. For the deciduous plants give a very natural colour.
 
No I am sure H2O2 at 35% or 120 volume. I saw the use in a couple of bonsai club north of Italy and was curious if someone here have experience.
I saw some plants threated, the wood cracks more fast than the usual time/weather option but still looks very natural. For the deciduous plants give a very natural colour.
Best of luck to you, be careful
 
The oxidation can help with sublimation of the wood and age it very fast, mimicking years or decades in the sun. I'm looking into that too.

I have thought about using Potassium permanganate for that purpose. If your wife is a chemist, and she doesn't warn you about the use of 35% H2O2, then just get a divorce.. Because that stuff can get you permanently disfigured.
She can also help you on how to dilute it, she should know you never add water to an acid.

This is not just an oxidizer, but also an acid. That's a fiery combination if you add a combustable carbon like.. wood?
There are safer oxidizers out there.

I've dealt with these kind of chemicals and perodixde derivatives actually set some of our trashcans on fire.. 10 hours after we used it. The reaction was slow at first but when the heat increased, it released more oxygen that fueled the fire in an airtight container. They ended up popping open and shooting burning stuff everywhere.

There's a couple things in the chemistry world where I'd safely drink it. Oxidizers are in the group of "If I'm not a 100% sure TWICE, I don't use it.".
 
You know that high grade H2O2 is used as a propellant in fuel for rockets and torpedoes.
 
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