How would you style this tubby Wych Elm?

[AshleyMammal]

Chunky little air layer, I’ve screwed to a board to get some better roots which will take a bit of time so I’m in no rush. How would you go about developing/styling this? I’m a big fan of deciduous deadwood/hollows and will incorporate a bit of carving.

 

[MMJNICE]

I would probably grow a new leader first then go from there after it developed a bit and then assess the tree again.

 

[BobbyLane]

I wouldnt go the one leader route, i'd make a dome shaped crown out of the growth what is there. I'd look at old Oaks for inspo, maybe a couple of small uro with the stubs already there. Have a look at Will baddelys Wildwood bonsai FB page, there's a bunch of interesting Elms.

 

[AshleyMammal]

I wouldnt go the one leader route, i'd make a dome shaped crown out of the growth what is there. I'd look at old Oaks for inspo, maybe a couple of small uro with the stubs already there. Have a look at Will baddelys Wildwood bonsai FB page, there's a bunch of interesting Elms.

Yes, that’s what I was thinking. When going for the decurrent type crown - lots of stems from the hunk of wood in the centre - what do I do with the flat chop site?

Is it best to hollow out? Make a concave indentation? Leave flat?

 

[AshleyMammal]

I would probably grow a new leader first then go from there after it developed a bit and then assess the tree again.

Nah, I’m over developing new sections of trunk one bit at a time, I’ve got far too many of those projects! I think this would suit a more multi-branch approach - I’d love to keep this one as short as possible!

Thank you for your input though, I like hearing all different options and actually the new leader approach is probably more ‘right’

 

[TomB]

Yes, that’s what I was thinking. When going for the decurrent type crown - lots of stems from the hunk of wood in the centre - what do I do with the flat chop site?

Is it best to hollow out? Make a concave indentation? Leave flat?

Any of those approaches works depending on what you want it to look like. In this case it's quite a big flat chop so I'd be tempted to do some carving work to make a feature out of it. For example look at the top of the trunk on this one. I'd wait for a year or so to let upper branches really establish first before carving though.

 

[BobbyLane]

Yes you can create a fork as Tom has done, but you want to establish 2 to 3 or more strong leaders. You'll find that the strongest shoots from the stub will really take off, so you want to base future designs around those.

Here's an Elm I sold, see how the top stub forks and breaks into a few branches

 

[Jrmcmich]

If you carve from current dead stump through to top this would help with that flat cut at top and hopefully help the taper. Would assume this would be front to highlight that deadwood feature.

 

[BobbyLane]

View attachment 591254
If you carve from current dead stump through to top this would help with that flat cut at top and hopefully help the taper. Would assume this would be front to highlight that deadwood feature.

That may work. Or a V between the two horizontal shoots. If youre going to do it, I would begin slow, maybe just a little strip of bark removed with a rotary wire brush on drem medium speed or so. Just let the shoots extend this season and identify strong keeper ones.

 

[Shibui]

With just 2D photos to work with I'd go for pic 2 or pic 5 or somewhere between as the viewing angle.
Carving some deadwood down from the flat cut should give visual taper even if the rear shoots are retained.
The left branch stump is ideally placed for uro - owl nest?
There's always more than 1 possibility and the earlier options are good but maybe something like this is also possible?

Definitely allow the roots to gain strength and those new shots to become branches.
It appears the right side branches are currently stronger so you'll need to selectively trim to transfer some energy/strength to the left/upper shoots while still allowing several to make up the crown of the tree.
No need for a fixed plan yet. Modify the design according to which shoots grow and which just sit still.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

I would let the tree grow a little first... because it will probably naturally die back on its own. I would be cautious about carving too much until you know where the live veins are going to run. The tree has very little foliage right now to support that chunky base. Otherwise I agree with the comments here - look to nature for your inspiration. A trunk like this lends itself to a very old, craggy, gnarled appearance. If you are planning on keeping those branches make sure you wire in a lot of abrupt movement. You want to avoid young, straight growth.

 

[JudyB]

I would for sure keep that big prominent stub you show to the left in the second picture from the first post, that is the essence of the movement of this tree for me. I think that starting with carving the top spot little at a time so you see what can develop and be a natural progression as the tree grows.

 

[Jrmcmich]

Not sure a great concept but a concept

 

[AshleyMammal]

View attachment 591408
Not sure a great concept but a concept

This is ace, the carving will reduce the visual mass and link well with the stub to the left/general gnarliness.

Time now to let it grow and get strong. Thank you to everyone for your input!