How to shape a flowering cherry bonsai
- Thread starter Kipper10
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JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
The best way to find a direction on a tree this young, is to go and look at older tree images and see what inspires you. Once you have an image to work toward, you can find the correct technique to get you there. Remember that health of the tree is the most important thing. A healthy tree will get to your goal much sooner than a struggling overworked one.
Welcome to the forum
Welcome to the forum
FreshAirSunshine
Shohin
following-up on Judy’s comment - I strongly agree with the advise but I’d also emphasize the importance of consciously noting (perhaps literally) on the image. What makes the tree appeal to you and what makes it look like “a tree”. How do branches bend? Do they curve gently back and forth or at more jagged angles? How do they extend from the trunk? Do they move upward and curve gently down or so they stick straight out or what? How does branch thickness vary with height? Etc. I think being very deliberate with identifying what makes a tree look good in those images goes a long way.
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
I would also suggest in looking for inspiration for whatever tree you are making, to look at that specific species of tree images. There is a lot of design crossover, but some things like flowering and fruiting trees are grown a bit different to show off the blooms and fruiting trees more than a standard bonsai image.
I have been looking at pictures of more mature trees, they all have nice movement in the trunk or multi trunks.
I am concerned at the moment that the trunk on mine is straight, it is not pliable at all so do not think I can bend it. Is the answer to chop it? I believe after it has finished flowering is a good time?
Is there any other option? Also should I reduce the branches now?
I am concerned at the moment that the trunk on mine is straight, it is not pliable at all so do not think I can bend it. Is the answer to chop it? I believe after it has finished flowering is a good time?
Is there any other option? Also should I reduce the branches now?
Wires_Guy_wires
Imperial Masterpiece
Cherries tend to snap in my hands, and I'm only able to bend certain soft and young branchss that might kill themselves if the bend is a little too drastic.
So I do the clip and grow method. Once after they leaf out + 4 weeks. And once again in fall before leaf drop.
I keep back up branches; in a fork of three, I keep two. In a branchlet of four, I keep two. When wiring, I keep two.
Because they tend to give up on branches sometimes.
So I do the clip and grow method. Once after they leaf out + 4 weeks. And once again in fall before leaf drop.
I keep back up branches; in a fork of three, I keep two. In a branchlet of four, I keep two. When wiring, I keep two.
Because they tend to give up on branches sometimes.
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
When you repot the tree try repotting at an angle, that will give you one direction, then you can work the branches into more movement based on what that gives you. I would not reduce anything until you've settled on what you'd like the tree to be. For now just enjoy the flowers, and keep the tree healthy and growing strongly.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Cherries can be really awesome to work with. All the advice above is spot on.
A couple things to add to the list. Just my opinion.
First, what you see is not what the bonsai can be. Set the structure first. Then clip and grow.
Second, create a style that displays the flowers. In other words, the flowers (and stems) size dictate what size (minimum) the bonsai will need to be and also the branch separation.
Here are some cherry bonsai starters to look at.
Cheers
DSD sends
A couple things to add to the list. Just my opinion.
First, what you see is not what the bonsai can be. Set the structure first. Then clip and grow.
Second, create a style that displays the flowers. In other words, the flowers (and stems) size dictate what size (minimum) the bonsai will need to be and also the branch separation.
Here are some cherry bonsai starters to look at.
Cheers
DSD sends
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Please tap on the green highlighted link.
Best
DSD sends
Best
DSD sends
Ja_De
Yamadori
I've never had a cherry tree but am keeping an eye out for suitable material. I'm wondering if this posted tree would benefit from being transplanted into the ground for a season or two? I'd like to know what those more experienced with cherry trees think.
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
Well sure, if your goal is to thicken the trunk and/or make a larger tree, then ground or Anderson flat type of growing is the fastest way to get there. But there are plenty of trees that have been container grown for their whole life that can and do make stellar bonsai. It just depends on how fast you want to move the tree and your goal for the material.
Ja_De
Yamadori
I guess my question was if there were any reasons not to ground grow a cherry tree. I can't imagine any but...
AshleyMammal
Shohin
In my opinion, a cherry should have lots of twisting movement up the trunk and tend to suit a flowing, sinuous, more abstract style of tree (similar to popular styles of other flowering bonsai - ume, prunus spinosa and possibly quince). I would try to get as much movement in that trunk as possible, but be very careful as it’s a relatively brittle wood.
Another thing to be mindful of is the slow growth rate of flowering cherry. It’s another reason to go for a delicate, flowing style, as big trunk chops to create taper will take longer than other deciduous trees.
Another thing to be mindful of is the slow growth rate of flowering cherry. It’s another reason to go for a delicate, flowing style, as big trunk chops to create taper will take longer than other deciduous trees.
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
Only thing I can think of is fungal and insect issues, as they are susceptible. And also read the post above this about the delicacy these trees should embody, which ground growing doesn’t always give.
iant
Chumono
Hello,
I also have a Prunus incisa. Mine is "Okame." I'll attach a pic of the flower for curiosity.
I thought I'd mention branch selection for the future. It's not something that you need to do now, but at some point you should think about it. The goal is to avoid inverse taper, and only have 1 branch coming off at each level.
For the bottom branches, you'll ultimately need to choose 1 of the 3.
I think 3 is probably the best to keep, as that allows you to alternate and keep 4. 2 is also a little thick for having a bit too much of an acute angle upward.
Everything else looks pretty good.
Ian
I also have a Prunus incisa. Mine is "Okame." I'll attach a pic of the flower for curiosity.
I thought I'd mention branch selection for the future. It's not something that you need to do now, but at some point you should think about it. The goal is to avoid inverse taper, and only have 1 branch coming off at each level.
For the bottom branches, you'll ultimately need to choose 1 of the 3.
I think 3 is probably the best to keep, as that allows you to alternate and keep 4. 2 is also a little thick for having a bit too much of an acute angle upward.
Everything else looks pretty good.
Ian
