How to make azalea whip

Poolie130

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so I just received this beautiful azalea from APMaples on Etsy and I was just wondering what best practice would be to grow it out as whip should I prune all the branches off after it’s is growing healthy again after shipping or just let grow freely for the year. Would love some insight from someone like @Deep Sea Diver been reason a lot of forums on here and seems like he’s on most of them dealing with azaleas. I’m in zone 7a in Canada bc. The cultivar is a yves MURASAKI azalea.
Thanks, Poolie
 

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Looks like nice material! You could start by reducing the whorls to pairs of branches, always aiming to keep acute angles between the shoots (e.g., on that top trifurcation you should avoid cutting the middle, as it will make a wide bifurcation). It should likely be just a small handful of cuts to simplify and reduce growth that can’t be used—growing into the middle of the plant or down, for instance.

Now would be an appropriate time to repot, but the soil looks good, as I see those nice gold nuggets. Generally, DSD has instructed me to wire young plants in the fall, but I imagine it could also be done now if you’re careful, or perhaps after flowering, when major pruning generally takes place.

Nice small leaves, should be fun!
 
Looks like nice material! You could start by reducing the whorls to pairs of branches, always aiming to keep acute angles between the shoots (e.g., on that top trifurcation you should avoid cutting the middle, as it will make a wide bifurcation). It should likely be just a small handful of cuts to simplify and reduce growth that can’t be used—growing into the middle of the plant or down, for instance.

Now would be an appropriate time to repot, but the soil looks good, as I see those nice gold nuggets. Generally, DSD has instructed me to wire young plants in the fall, but I imagine it could also be done now if you’re careful, or perhaps after flowering, when major pruning generally takes place.

Nice small leaves, should be fun!
Thanks when you say whirls you mean like at the top where they spilt into three shoots about half way through?
 
Greetings.

Nice little azalea there! So not sure the cultivar. Is this Yves Murasaki, or a Murasaki.

If the former, not familiar, if the latter this is a very nice satsuki azalea, with 1/4 Juko heritage. That matters as Juko types tend to be somewhat brittle.

You requested to know how to make this cutting into a whip. That’s very easy… just like you mentioned follow the main line and remove all the side branches leaving only the top cluster of leaves…. Then remove the buds. This will leave the azalea with no branches, no clusters, no buds.

Be sure to cut flush and seal all wounds with Top Jin (Amazon) cut paste.

IMG_3151.jpeg

I would wait a week or two to do this, but not longer.

Each time the cluster produces branchlets on top, choose two and remove the rest. After a week or so, choose the strongest and remove the other. Then grow this out… removing all side branchlets that form.

Using a heat mat thermostat combo and light can boost the growth during the winter.

Not sure would wire the whip at this time. There are embedded sharp bends that can be used to embed in the future design

As this cutting is likely 2-3 yoa one might consider bending the lower part of the ego. It already has a good angle coming out of the media,

Good luck! Please post future progress.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Greetings.

Nice little azalea there! So not sure the cultivar. Is this Yves Murasaki, or a Murasaki.

If the former, not familiar, if the latter this is a very nice satsuki azalea, with 1/4 Juko heritage. That matters as Juko types tend to be somewhat brittle.

You requested to know how to make this cutting into a whip. That’s very easy… just like you mentioned follow the main line and remove all the side branches leaving only the top cluster of leaves…. Then remove the buds. This will leave the azalea with no branches, no clusters, no buds.

Be sure to cut flush and seal all wounds with Top Jin (Amazon) cut paste.

View attachment 589670

I would wait a week or two to do this, but not longer.

Each time the cluster produces branchlets on top, choose two and remove the rest. After a week or so, choose the strongest and remove the other. Then grow this out… removing all side branchlets that form.

Using a heat mat thermostat combo and light can boost the growth during the winter.

Not sure would wire the whip at this time. There are embedded sharp bends that can be used to embed in the future design

As this cutting is likely 2-3 yoa one might consider bending the lower part of the ego. It already has a good angle coming out of the media,

Good luck! Please post future progress.

Cheers
DSD sends
Thanks a lot I really appreciate it, I will wait a week or so before cutting waiting for my branch cutters to be shipped anyways. Do you suggest cutting flush right away with paste or doing it in stages in case of die back? Also should I putty after the cut paste has dried?
 
Greetings.

Nice little azalea there! So not sure the cultivar. Is this Yves Murasaki, or a Murasaki.

If the former, not familiar, if the latter this is a very nice satsuki azalea, with 1/4 Juko heritage. That matters as Juko types tend to be somewhat brittle.

You requested to know how to make this cutting into a whip. That’s very easy… just like you mentioned follow the main line and remove all the side branches leaving only the top cluster of leaves…. Then remove the buds. This will leave the azalea with no branches, no clusters, no buds.

Be sure to cut flush and seal all wounds with Top Jin (Amazon) cut paste.

View attachment 589670

I would wait a week or two to do this, but not longer.

Each time the cluster produces branchlets on top, choose two and remove the rest. After a week or so, choose the strongest and remove the other. Then grow this out… removing all side branchlets that form.

Using a heat mat thermostat combo and light can boost the growth during the winter.

Not sure would wire the whip at this time. There are embedded sharp bends that can be used to embed in the future design

As this cutting is likely 2-3 yoa one might consider bending the lower part of the ego. It already has a good angle coming out of the media,

Good luck! Please post future progress.

Cheers
DSD sends
it is a yves murasaki I will keep it posted on the progress of what I learn about the cultivar
 
You are welcome.

Hmm… there are lots of Murasaki, haven’t seen a Yves M.. maybe @Glaucus has heard of one?

Best
DSD sends
 
Azaleas are not like many other trees, no need to worry about dieback unless branch is >1/2”. Then special technique is needed…

Carefully cut just a hair outward of flush. Then take a razor or sharp chisel and make a slight convex surface, matching the outer edges of the surface. (As if the branch was never there). Please do not use diagonal cutter. When in doubt, cut less, then nibble closer until you can shave the final bit convex.

Use Top Jin to seal. Any cut larger then a pencil eraser, seal again… once the Top Jin is completely dry use green top cut paste to seal.

Would leave the top extra cluster on for an extra week, then remove. Be sure to remove any flower buds on the apex.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Azaleas are not like many other trees, no need to worry about dieback unless branch is >1/2”. Then special technique is needed…

Carefully cut just a hair outward of flush. Then take a razor or sharp chisel and make a slight convex surface, matching the outer edges of the surface. (As if the branch was never there). Please do not use diagonal cutter. When in doubt, cut less, then nibble closer until you can shave the final bit convex.

Use Top Jin to seal. Any cut larger then a pencil eraser, seal again… once the Top Jin is completely dry use green top cut paste to seal.

Would leave the top extra cluster on for an extra week, then remove. Be sure to remove any flower buds on the apex.

Cheers
DSD sends
Okay will remove any of the flower buds when needed. When you say not to use diagonal cutters do you mean concave branch cutters?
 
Yes, we don’t use anything that cuts past the line of the edge of a branch. Azaleas have thin bark.

There is a specialist tool called a convex cutter azalea folks use. However unless you have a good amount of stock, not worth the purchase.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Yes, I would repot soon to get maximum growth. Looks like this one wants to assume the typical Moyogi shape, so I would put in a thin stake and loosely wrap and tie it to the stake. In theory, one could make almost any style from a good flexible whip, but I have found that early on, the best use of the material is pretty obvious.
 
Yes, we don’t use anything that cuts past the line of the edge of a branch. Azaleas have thin bark.

There is a specialist tool called a convex cutter azalea folks use. However unless you have a good amount of stock, not worth the purchase.

Cheers
DSD sends
The idea of a convex cutter seems great but my experience was it didn't work that well. I just use a regular convex cutter and saved the wound with a xecto knife.
 
Yes, I would repot soon to get maximum growth. Looks like this one wants to assume the typical Moyogi shape, so I would put in a thin stake and loosely wrap and tie it to the stake. In theory, one could make almost any style from a good flexible whip, but I have found that early on, the best use of the material is pretty obvious.
Think I’m going to wait until next year to repot not that worried about fast growth and the kanuma in there is pretty fresh. That stick will be needed soon for support thanks for the advice.
 
The idea of a convex cutter seems great but my experience was it didn't work that well. I just use a regular convex cutter and saved the wound with a xecto knife.
Do you mean you just use regular concave branch cutters to cut it? I was just thinking of getting as close as I can with some sharp pruning shears and then shaving the rest with a razor blade anyone let me know if that is the wrong way to do it and I will change how I am going to go about it lol. Thanks for the advice made sure to get some fresh sharp blades from work
 
Greetings.

Nice little azalea there! So not sure the cultivar. Is this Yves Murasaki, or a Murasaki.

If the former, not familiar, if the latter this is a very nice satsuki azalea, with 1/4 Juko heritage. That matters as Juko types tend to be somewhat brittle.

You requested to know how to make this cutting into a whip. That’s very easy… just like you mentioned follow the main line and remove all the side branches leaving only the top cluster of leaves…. Then remove the buds. This will leave the azalea with no branches, no clusters, no buds.

Be sure to cut flush and seal all wounds with Top Jin (Amazon) cut paste.

View attachment 589670

I would wait a week or two to do this, but not longer.

Each time the cluster produces branchlets on top, choose two and remove the rest. After a week or so, choose the strongest and remove the other. Then grow this out… removing all side branchlets that form.

Using a heat mat thermostat combo and light can boost the growth during the winter.

Not sure would wire the whip at this time. There are embedded sharp bends that can be used to embed in the future design

As this cutting is likely 2-3 yoa one might consider bending the lower part of the ego. It already has a good angle coming out of the media,

Good luck! Please post future progress.

Cheers
DSD sends
Granted the question was how to turn this tree into a whip ... That being said, is that the way to develop a trunk for a Satsuki azalea? I have a bunch of 2-3 year old seedlings in need of development and realized I wasn't certain of the path for them.
 
…. I was just thinking of getting as close as I can with some sharp pruning shears and then shaving the rest with a razor blade

Do this please. Also if the pot is 3” there is no need to up pot this year.

Azaleas do not trunk up readily. Best thing to do is to keep it healthy this year.

Earlier I didn’t ask why a whip was the goal for this azalea?

Best
DSD sends
 
Do this please. Also if the pot is 3” there is no need to up pot this year.

Azaleas do not trunk up readily. Best thing to do is to keep it healthy this year.

Earlier I didn’t ask why a whip was the goal for this azalea?

Best
DSD sends
Okay thanks I will do. It is in a 4” nursery container so I’m going to keep it that this year and up pot to a tokoname pot at least 4 inches deep next year. My goal with this azalea was to make a flower tower if possible and I love the way the flower towers from Japan have such natural bends they are so pretty. I will keep everyone posted on how things go thanks again everyone for your input I really appreciate all the help I can get
Thanks Poolie
 
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Do you mean you just use regular concave branch cutters to cut it? I was just thinking of getting as close as I can with some sharp pruning shears and then shaving the rest with a razor blade anyone let me know if that is the wrong way to do it and I will change how I am going to go about it lol. Thanks for the advice made sure to get some fresh sharp blades from work
I use a regular concave cutter. I like using the Kaneshin narrow concave cutter, #6B, because it is very sharp and cuts real close to the trunk, and is useful for removing small branches, for larger ones I use a regular 8” concave cutter, shave and smooth the wound with a xecto or grafting knife.

Azalea trunk has very thin skin, heavy cutter could crush the wound that it hinders callusing. The professionals usually saw larger branches, left a stub and cleaned it with a chisel.

1743627016622.jpeg
 
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