Hinoki cypress ‘wells special’

[DavePa]

I just picked this up today at the local big box depo, southern PA. Newish to bonsai’s. My question: should I trim and start shaping the foliage or should I trim roots/existing soil so I can place in a smaller pot. It’s about 3’ tall in a 5 gal pot ( basset hound for scale)

 

[Japonicus]

View attachment 535306I just picked this up today at the local big box depo, southern PA. Newish to bonsai’s. My question: should I trim and start shaping the foliage or should I trim roots/existing soil so I can place in a smaller pot. It’s about 3’ tall in a 5 gal pot ( basset hound for scale)

Welcome to BonsaiNut @DavePa
Not an easy starting point.
The earlier you can start the transition to bonsai soil the better. Hinoki does not back bud on brown wood that is well lignified. To combat this, we have to manage the growth from the outside in. Thin out foliage to let light into the interior growth.
This would occur after it recovers from potting.
You shouldn't bare root it. I Would slice the rootball in half horizontally. Using a root hook and bonsai rake, remove a bit more soil from the center, out, from underneath. Remove large downwards growing roots. Oh, when you remove the bottom half, try to incorporate a little angle to your cut in a way to pitch a lean into the trunk so the number one branch throws off the trunk in an outward bend in the trunk (not pitching the trunk in a manor that tilts the #1 branch towards the soil). If the nebari is nice and radial, you may want to preserve that and not cut rootball at an angle.
Anyway try to get the remaining rootball flat as you work underneath it removing soil and roots. We wait till next year to do any major pruning if it has grown well (recovered).
I would recommend building a grow box for the 1st potting up.
So remove half then work out more from underneath to see whete you are with dimensions for a pot. Secure the rootball with wire to the pot/box.

You may need 8 gallons or more of bonsai soil to put into a grow box. If not it will be well served next time you need more.

 

[DavePa]

That’s solid advice, thanks. I’m not a “new” beginner, been at it for a couple years with maples, Alberta spruce, small junipers etc but, this is my first one of this size and species. I’m looking forward to this tree and don’t want to mess it up.

 

[DavePa]

Welcome to BonsaiNut @DavePa
Not an easy starting point.
The earlier you can start the transition to bonsai soil the better. Hinoki does not back bud on brown wood that is well lignified. To combat this, we have to manage the growth from the outside in. Thin out foliage to let light into the interior growth.
This would occur after it recovers from potting.
You shouldn't bare root it. I Would slice the rootball in half horizontally. Using a root hook and bonsai rake, remove a bit more soil from the center, out, from underneath. Remove large downwards growing roots. Oh, when you remove the bottom half, try to incorporate a little angle to your cut in a way to pitch a lean into the trunk so the number one branch throws off the trunk in an outward bend in the trunk (not pitching the trunk in a manor that tilts the #1 branch towards the soil). If the nebari is nice and radial, you may want to preserve that and not cut rootball at an angle.
Anyway try to get the remaining rootball flat as you work underneath it removing soil and roots. We wait till next year to do any major pruning if it has grown well (recovered).
I would recommend building a grow box for the 1st potting up.
So remove half then work out more from underneath to see whete you are with dimensions for a pot. Secure the rootball with wire to the pot/box.

You may need 8 gallons or more of bonsai soil to put into a grow box. If not it will be well served next time you need more.

Thanks for the welcome.

 

[Japonicus]

I made a rough grow box yesterday for a maple. Put a good number of drainage holes in the bottom, and stapled some plastic screen over the holes.
Ran 2 wires up through bottom to secure roots through 4 holes.

This box is roughly 18 x 10 x 7" and used about 7 or 8 gallons of soil.




Hinoki does not do well in dry windy conditions. Keep it misted after repotting. During the growing season we control outward growth by pinching the frawns back and some light pruning.

 

[DavePa]

Curious, why is it better to put in a wooden box rather than a temp pot. Like a plastic or ceramic one?

 

[Dabbler]

Curious, why is it better to put in a wooden box rather than a temp pot. Like a plastic or ceramic one?

think of it as a training pot - I do they same thing as many other do - help the tree recover from it's first repot, get flatter root base and makes watering easier

 

[DavePa]

I made a rough grow box yesterday for a maple. Put a good number of drainage holes in the bottom, and stapled some plastic screen over the holes.
Ran 2 wires up through bottom to secure roots through 4 holes.

This box is roughly 18 x 10 x 7" and used about 7 or 8 gallons of soil.



View attachment 535320 View attachment 535321
Hinoki does not do well in dry windy conditions. Keep it misted after repotting. During the growing season we control outward growth by pinching the frawns back and some light pruning.

I’m assuming it’s not treated wood, do you use cedar or other kinds of rot deterrent woods ?

 

[Japonicus]

I’m assuming it’s not treated wood, do you use cedar or other kinds of rot deterrent woods ?

I use any scrap lumber I can find that's uniform in thickness and long enough. Usually not in there long enough for that much chemical to leach in from treated lumber. Beside as you water it gets flushed out pretty well I would think.
If concerned simply make a sealer brushing on outdoor wood glue before you use the box. Cedar is great, mahogany even better. Use pallet slats, I used leftover laminate flooring last year. Finding the right sized...

Curious, why is it better to put in a wooden box rather than a temp pot. Like a plastic or ceramic one?

...prefabbed pot requires multiple ones on hand at the ready when you need it. Whereas a custom sized one is perfect.
Nothing wrong using prefab just not practical but you might luck into having the correct size on hand.

 

[Dabbler]

 

[Japonicus]

For instance I bought this

wooden pot at lowes 4 years ago for a project. It didn't fit the root system of the intended tree nor any other projects since.
Once you're familiar with the roots it's easier to guess what size pot you'll need. Not a given but you're more apt to get closr. I still have 3 pots or so ready when changing pots.

 

[DavePa]

I use any scrap lumber I can find that's uniform in thickness and long enough. Usually not in there long enough for that much chemical to leach in from treated lumber. Beside as you water it gets flushed out pretty well I would think.
If concerned simply make a sealer brushing on outdoor wood glue before you use the box. Cedar is great, mahogany even better. Use pallet slats, I used leftover laminate flooring last year. Finding the right sized...

...prefabbed pot requires multiple ones on hand at the ready when you need it. Whereas a custom sized one is perfect.
Nothing wrong using prefab just not practical but you might luck into having the correct size on hand.

Great info, thank you.

 

[DavePa]

Thanks for the link. I’m sure I can find a ton of info out there but I like hearing honest opinions from all of you as well.

 

[Dabbler]

Thanks for the link. I’m sure I can find a ton of info out there but I like hearing honest opinions from all of you as well.

pretty much a shamless plug but I end up building those ever couple years and they help a ton

 

[DavePa]

pretty much a shamless plug but I end up building those ever couple years and they help a ton

Awesome, that’s yours? I will definitely look into it.

 

[DavePa]

Another question, so I build my box and I’ve read some conflicting opinions about soil. The most consistent is “mixture of akadama, lava rock and pumice in a ratio of 2:1:1”
Does this seem right with trees everyone here had experienced with or is this just a matter of opinion or am I over thinking ?

 

[Dabbler]

That's a can of worm as I have never used akadama - but some swear by it. You have to just works for your watering schedule and what works for you. I use pumice, lava, shredded bark, compost, expanded clay - mixed to the trees needs for water.

 

[DavePa]

I’m really looking forward to this long journey with this plant but I’ve read late spring is best for this plant repotting so I guess I have some time to build the box as temps here in south central PA we’re in the 20s this morn.

 

[Japonicus]

I use a mix similar to Dabbler from soil components at bonsaijack.com The Monto Clay behaves similar to akadama but fired a lot harder. So it is quite different and lasts longer for less money.
Yes early to mid Spring Zone 6 and lower. Here April and early May as with juniper. Don't get too close to June zone 6 and lower.
Earlier in warmer climates.
You should update your profile to include general location and USDA grow zone @DavePa

 

[Japonicus]

Here is one of my few hinokis. It’s a golden variety started from 2” starter pot
about 15 yrs ago.


Last most recent pic it went into yet another unintended pot May 10th 2020.
Time to repot again this year.