I need some advice on the best type of flowering fruit tree to get for my collection. I have been looking at apple, plum, and cherry. I have tried apple and cherry but realized very quickly that one has to stay right on top of the fungus spray or the trees will just fade away. Especially hard on seedlings. I have looked at Yoshino, Kwanzan, and Mt Fuji cherries, and a twisted plum called Longyou Mie. I would like to get some advice on a tree or two that might work in my zone 6. I have both summer and winter protection. A regime and helpful spray for the fungus problem would also help if you could. My humidity is low here so don't understand all the fungus problems. All help and advice is appreciated.
HELP WITH FLOWERING FRUIT TREES PLS
- Thread starter August44
- Start date
Wires_Guy_wires
Imperial Masterpiece
I don't know your climate but fungus is hardly an issue for my cherries. Actually not at all.
Cerasifera is a wild cherry plum that grows like a weed here in the wild. Incisa is also pretty common as a garden shrub and it naturally gnarls its branches.
Cerasifera is a wild cherry plum that grows like a weed here in the wild. Incisa is also pretty common as a garden shrub and it naturally gnarls its branches.
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
All cherries are difficult here. There are many different pests and diseases that affect them it seems to be a constant battle to stay on top and keep them healthy and alive. There may be some cherry species that are hardier but I have not found those types.
Some of the plums are susceptible to a few of the pests and diseases that affect cherries but others are extremely hardy. Prunus cerasifera which we know as 'cherry plum' is hardy enough to have become naturalised down here and is now a pest species. Anything that reaches pest status is plenty hardy enough to be great bonsai material. Prunus nigra is another hardy plum with smaller fruit that makes great bonsai as is damson plum.
I'd steer clear of the fancy varieties if you want hardiness. Most have been developed with the special flowers, leaves or growth pattern in mind rather than hardiness. Most I have tried have proved difficult.
I find that most crab apples are quite hardy down here. The small fruited types make great bonsai as the tiny fruits are in proportion with the smaller sized tree.
Your area may have a different suite of pests and diseases and the different climate may make some species and cultivars easier or harder for you.
Some of the plums are susceptible to a few of the pests and diseases that affect cherries but others are extremely hardy. Prunus cerasifera which we know as 'cherry plum' is hardy enough to have become naturalised down here and is now a pest species. Anything that reaches pest status is plenty hardy enough to be great bonsai material. Prunus nigra is another hardy plum with smaller fruit that makes great bonsai as is damson plum.
I'd steer clear of the fancy varieties if you want hardiness. Most have been developed with the special flowers, leaves or growth pattern in mind rather than hardiness. Most I have tried have proved difficult.
I find that most crab apples are quite hardy down here. The small fruited types make great bonsai as the tiny fruits are in proportion with the smaller sized tree.
Your area may have a different suite of pests and diseases and the different climate may make some species and cultivars easier or harder for you.
Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
- Messages
- 13,471
- Reaction score
- 32,112
- USDA Zone
- 6a
Anything in the rose family- that includes apples, cherries, plums, apricots, pears, hawthorns, quinces, etc.- is going to be prone to disease and pestilence. If you chose to keep them, vigilance and prevention is warranted. In my experience, collected hawthorns are pretty resistant to bugs and fungal disease in that they didn't lose loads of leaves every year. The other side of that coin is that they were very reluctant to flower while potted up and in bonsai culture. Personally, I'd be looking at varieties of crab apple or cherry hardy to your locale and plan on applying systemic pesticides/fungicides several times a year to keep the bugs and fungus at bay.
Dave, you and I live in the same growing zone so could I ask you what "crab apple" or "hardy cherry" you think might work for me? Also your opinion of the best systemic pesticide and fungicide to use. Help appreciated.
Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
- Messages
- 13,471
- Reaction score
- 32,112
- USDA Zone
- 6a
I purchased 2 different varieties from Evergreen Gardenworks. I honestly don't remember exactly which they were but in my experience, they grew well in GA and haven't skipped a beat in MI, and I suspect most crabs will behave the same. I'm fairly sure one is the Malus seiboldii x and the other is Malus sargentii 'Tina'. As far as systemics to use, I really don't have a preference other than making sure it contains both an antifungal and insecticide- this one needs to be bee-safe if you're applying in the spring, which I would advise. Bonide is a brand that probably makes such a product, any big box store probably has multiple cholices.
I have to drive 150 miles to get to a "Big Box Store", which I will if I have to. Thanks Dave
PS: Will it work to get a bigger grafted tree and then air layer the top or do crabs not airlayer?
Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
- Messages
- 13,471
- Reaction score
- 32,112
- USDA Zone
- 6a
I’ve never done a layer with any of the species mentioned so can’t comment. My crabs do bud from roots consistently. Fwiw, any of the systemics can be researched and purchased online.
