Miguelito's Blade
Mame
I'm curious about how useful an addition to my tool bag it might be.
I have that one too, it bound and bent almost immediately. It’s a pull-stroke cut, so any resistance on the push stroke causes trouble.I have not but I love this saw from Kaneshin for small cuts
For larger cuts, this one is amazing, I have a fine tooth one and large. It is so much better than the 5-6 I tried previously.
Yeah, I find the less pressure on any handsaw works better. I only use the Kaneshin saw in tight spaces. I will always try to use the silky pocket boy saw if possible. I can’t recommend it enough.I have that one too, it bound and bent almost immediately. It’s a pull-stroke cut, so any resistance on the push stroke causes trouble.
Although…I do still use it.
Went through several Felcos and they are excellent, but Silky is the best by far.I will always try to use the silky pocket boy saw if possible
It is specifically designed for air layers, cannot be used for cutting branches.View attachment 416135
Here's a photo of the saw. I should have posted pics from the start but I didn't. Sorry. Here's a link to it: https://www.fromjapan-kt.com/product/708
Does any US bonsai retailer carry the kaneshin saw?
That's what I thought it was for. I was just curious if anyone had used one.It is specifically designed for air layers, cannot be used for cutting branches.
I have used the concept, I decided not to buy the masakuni version, instead I modified a very coarse wood rasp for the same purpose air layering. It worked well with a greater response of radial root response than the typical straight edge sharp circular scoring. It also tends to break the fibres, therefore less likely of leaving a possible bridge and preventing a successful air layer. The concept was well described by Masakuni Kawasumi II in his book " The Secret techniques of bonsai" ,2005 Chapter Four Toriki : Layering. It is called the new Toriki scraper in his text. To Quote:That's what I thought it was for. I was just curious if anyone had used one.
Thank you for describing your experience with a similar tool and for referral to Masakuni's book. That's the sort of information I was looking for. I don't have anything close to the sort of work-area and tools to craft my own tool from a rasp, so I think I will get the Masakuni version.I have used the concept, I decided not to buy the masakuni version, instead I modified a very coarse wood rasp for the same purpose air layering. It worked well with a greater response of radial root response than the typical straight edge sharp circular scoring. It also tends to break the fibres, therefore less likely of leaving a possible bridge and preventing a successful air layer. The concept was well described by Masakuni Kawasumi II in his book " The Secret techniques of bonsai" ,2005 Chapter Four Toriki : Layering. It is called the new Toriki scraper in his text. To Quote:
" the new scraper offers another advantage: the exposed area will not have straight, clear cut edges as when a wire or knife has been used to pare away the bark, so the roots will grow less artificially." Here is the example used in the book to illustrate the difference. When I used a similar tool based on the same concept
I noticed the same difference.
View attachment 416250
Silky makes great saws, I use one of theirs, foldable for collecting. expanding on the concept that any rough tooth saw or metal edge could be used to score an uneven edge for air layering and scraping the cambium off to prevent bridging. ARS is another good brand for small saws and scissors.Nope. Another Silky Pocket Boy user.
I also am going to modify a rasp . To make the air layer tool . Curious which rasp you used . They make solid rasp like a file or the air layer tool . There is also a cheese grater style rasp for wood . A similar tool is used in auto body work to rough remove body filler . Was thinking of the grater idea So what did you use and how did you modify it thanksI have used the concept, I decided not to buy the masakuni version, instead I modified a very coarse wood rasp for the same purpose air layering. It worked well with a greater response of radial root response than the typical straight edge sharp circular scoring. It also tends to break the fibres, therefore less likely of leaving a possible bridge and preventing a successful air layer. The concept was well described by Masakuni Kawasumi II in his book " The Secret techniques of bonsai" ,2005 Chapter Four Toriki : Layering. It is called the new Toriki scraper in his text. To Quote:
" the new scraper offers another advantage: the exposed area will not have straight, clear cut edges as when a wire or knife has been used to pare away the bark, so the roots will grow less artificially." Here is the example used in the book to illustrate the difference. When I used a similar tool based on the same concept
I noticed the same difference.
View attachment 416250
This type with very coarse teeth. I modified it by cutting it down to a smaller size in length. Left only 3 inches for working edge, found that easier to handle and work with around the trunk or branch being air layered. So overall including the tang and handle it became an 7 inch overall length rather than roughly 15 or 16 inches long.solid rasp like a file