has anyone used biochar?

pyro gaz

Seedling
Messages
16
Reaction score
5
Location
durham uk
Hi I'm new to the forum, I've been collecting yamadori and styling for just over a year now and I'm wanting to start producing my own medium, as part of my work I make artist charcoal and the seconds of them I crush down ready to be mixed wiþ some organic matter...I'm think worm casts might be a cool way to go but has anyone ever tried with anything similar? Any feed back would be great!.... finally some people to chat bonsai with
I'm gaz by the way, hopefully speak soon
 
I've used a good bit of (25%) it in one of my best growing azalea. But I don't have a comparison where I've used it in like material, so I can't say if its the biochar that is responsible for sure.
I don't believe it would hurt though.
CW
 
Hi thanks for your reply ill check it out what kind do you use personally mate?
 
Oh wow so your using it now? Thing that's got me thinking about it is the absorption of trace nutrients from rain water like magnesium and boron ...im not sure if the worm casts might add too much nitrogen though.... any thoughts? Possibly just use leaf mould I was thinking but worm farms are quite a good business idea at the same time...
 
I use NAPA 8822. It was suggested to me by another member on this site. @source, I imagine he will be dropping in to say hello and extol the virtues of 8822. It has been great for me. I use it with a bit of organic material (potting soil) and some perlite. You may want to update your profile to show where you are from. You will get better help that way from people with experience in your zone.
Here is a link you can take a look at.
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/napa-oil-dry-part-no-8822.20908/
 
Last edited:
Stay away from organics in your soil if you can.
I just use d.e(Napa floor dry) and lava.
I've been using napa8822 for years. It works fine by itself but the lava mixed in works better.
I'm ordering a couple bags of optisorb for this year. It's d.e.only in larger particle size closer to my lava.
 
I use some organics in my mix because of the AZ summer heat. I would be watering 14 times a day without it. It does mess with the drainage and I have read a little about the negative impact organic fertilizers may have on bonsai.
 
Welcome to Crazy!

Love fire!

Sorce
 
I routinely add about 10% of my mix as horticultural grade charcoal, I buy it rather than make it, but no reason not to use home made biochar. There is reasonably well documented horticultural, agricultural use of biochar to good effect. Go for it. Any biochar that has not been fully carbonized to charcoal can simply be thought of as an addition to the bark chip portion of the organics. It is good stuff, the mycorrhiza love it. A must if you are raising morel mushrooms.
 
Stay away from organics in your soil if you can.
I just use d.e(Napa floor dry) and lava.
I've been using napa8822 for years. It works fine by itself but the lava mixed in works better.
I'm ordering a couple bags of optisorb for this year. It's d.e.only in larger particle size closer to my lava.
Asking out of newbie quriosity, no intention of start any soil war shenanigans, but what are detrimental effects do organics have? Is Akadama considered organic? I have used 1/8" to 1/4" pine for my (non-bonsai) Japanese Maples in the past. I need to repot them this year and was thinking about going non-organic. They are in 1.5-2 gallon(ish) pots, and would be too expensive to put them all in a mix with 50% Akadama. Im thinking: Optisorb, Pumice, Lava with a bit of hort Charcoal and granite and the top 1 inch being just haydite/lava instead of pumice (because I like the darker color).
I think you will like the OptiSorb. I switched last year and will not go back to Turface. I was also considering the Bonsai Jack Bonsai Block, but Optisorb is cheaper and I can get it (from FastenAll) about 1/4 mile from my house
 
Haven't done enough research to warrant commenting on it (but I'm gonna anyway). I mix it with perlite and turface, maybe 20% or less of charcoal. This isn't my bonsai soil but my cutting mixture. I've heard charcoal was "purifying" so when I saw a damaged bag for sale for $2 I figured what the hell. I don't have much fungus trouble with my cuttings but I also water them with hydrogen peroxide haha. I don't do a ton of cuttings and since there are variables I guess I'll never know if it works but, it hasn't killed anything to my knowledge
 
I use some charcoal 5%, but I am not trying to get amazing ramifications (yet). If the charcoal or bark is fresh or sterile, I have been told that those substances absorb huge intakes of nitrogen and other nutrients until they being to break down and release the bound minerals (NRCS soil scientist). As everyone here states, take a good look at your climate and adjust things accordingly.
For myself in the California mtns, we get a lot of winter rain and snow, coupled with hot dry summers. So I have to build a soil accordingly that will accomodate drastic changes in summer and winter that also fit my schedule of availability.
My suggestion is to do the same with your soil.
When it comes to refining your tree, then look at those who have excellent trees with great ramifications and try their mixes according to your climate, there are some amazing resources here that are wonderful help!
 
Bout to make a retort I can fire using the chimney heat from my kiln.

I'm thinking about piping the gases from the retort back to the kiln to reburn to save propane.

I have been studying and I'm fittin' to start a Biochar For Real thread.

I want to activate, pun fully intended, these 3 threads on the subject, in an effort to invite the participants to a unified discussion where we can communally put BS to rest.

Thank You!

Sorce
 
Please to our unified discussion.


Cheers.

Sorce
 
Back
Top Bottom