Captkingdom
Yamadori
Can anyone point me to a good Japanese grafting knife?
Grafting knife recomendation?
- Thread starter Captkingdom
- Start date
Wires_Guy_wires
Imperial Masterpiece
Not sure if it's Japanese, but I ordered myself one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pruning-Gr...506305&hash=item2cf8ab8cdd:g:-hwAAOSwVc5bWWgo
And it's pretty decent.
I'm also a big fan of Opinel. They're a French brand that have knives so sharp that they'll cut your eyes if you look at them. For some reason, they stay sharp too! For longer than Victorinox for instance. They (opinel) also sell grafting knives.
In all honesty, I've never been a fan of Japanese tools. They get the work done, but they're never comfortable. If there's an alternative, I'll gladly put my money in that basket.
If you've ever pruned a garden tree with a Japanese cutter, you start to understand why some bonsai people are so grumpy. Ergonomics? Never heard of that!
At the end of the day, I believe that having fun is what matters. If you like Japanese tools, use them! But I believe nobody is going to judge you for choosing something more comfortable that's just as effective.
And it's pretty decent.
I'm also a big fan of Opinel. They're a French brand that have knives so sharp that they'll cut your eyes if you look at them. For some reason, they stay sharp too! For longer than Victorinox for instance. They (opinel) also sell grafting knives.
In all honesty, I've never been a fan of Japanese tools. They get the work done, but they're never comfortable. If there's an alternative, I'll gladly put my money in that basket.
If you've ever pruned a garden tree with a Japanese cutter, you start to understand why some bonsai people are so grumpy. Ergonomics? Never heard of that!
At the end of the day, I believe that having fun is what matters. If you like Japanese tools, use them! But I believe nobody is going to judge you for choosing something more comfortable that's just as effective.
PiñonJ
Omono
These are made of good steel and are easy to sharpen:
j-bonsai.com
Bonsai Network Japan
As far as bonsai is concerned, we provide all kinds of products and services. We also sell bonsai tools, bonsai pots, display stand, and other bonsai related products, as well as bonsai schools, workshops and bonsai tours.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
I concur with Wires_Guy_wire. In the Apple orchard we had only one word for a good grafting knife.... sharp! (As I found out to my dismay a couple times).
I just had a friend come back from working with Michael Hagedorn for the weekend. She said Michael used a razor blade (with handle?) as he felt only a really good person with a whetstone could get a blade that sharp consistently.
(He does have a point, but I like to sharpen tools!)
Cheers
DSD sends
I just had a friend come back from working with Michael Hagedorn for the weekend. She said Michael used a razor blade (with handle?) as he felt only a really good person with a whetstone could get a blade that sharp consistently.
(He does have a point, but I like to sharpen tools!)
Cheers
DSD sends
TN_Jim
Omono
I have been veneer (many synonyms) grafting Japanese maples at work, a lot of them. I purchased the three knives pictured on amazon. Among the two Japanese blades I grew to prefer the thinner blade with brass handle because of it’s thinness. On a whim, I tried the Mora (didn’t get for grafting) and stopped using the Japanese blades -the blade is longer, just as sharp, and handle has more control.
Blade length is important because a push cut is not as clean or precise as a sliding cut -I’ve heard this from others as well, definitely agree.
Then, last week I forgot my tools at home and bought three $1.50 extending break-away-blade razor knives from the dollar store. 127 more maples later I have not went back to my true “knives”.
Whatever route you go, as mentioned above, sharp is the most important factor regardless of the specific tool. That said, the Mora and Japanese blades are very easy to sharpen relative to other types grafting blades.
Blade length is important because a push cut is not as clean or precise as a sliding cut -I’ve heard this from others as well, definitely agree.
Then, last week I forgot my tools at home and bought three $1.50 extending break-away-blade razor knives from the dollar store. 127 more maples later I have not went back to my true “knives”.
Whatever route you go, as mentioned above, sharp is the most important factor regardless of the specific tool. That said, the Mora and Japanese blades are very easy to sharpen relative to other types grafting blades.
JoeR
Masterpiece
Just want to bump this thread and see if anybody else has input-
I am looking for a nice grafting knife for both bonsai, and traditional nursery tree grafting.
I don't know much about sharpening something like a grafting blade, so advice there would be just as awesome.
I am looking for a nice grafting knife for both bonsai, and traditional nursery tree grafting.
I don't know much about sharpening something like a grafting blade, so advice there would be just as awesome.
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
Kanishen grafting Knives, Quality Chisels if working with pines and older azalea, Single sided razor blade for small scion work! With Knives if you do quite bit it is useful to have both the left and right handed versions. Here is my selection which meets most situations.
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Mike Westervelt
Chumono
I have one of these and have done a handful of successful grafts with it after extensive work to flatten and sharpen it.
store.bonsaitonight.com
As others have mentioned if you are capable of putting an sharp edge on a single bevel tool great!
If not, the breakaway disposable utility blades work fine, just a little wasteful IMO
Grafting Knives
Sharp grafting knifes for accurate work. Models 8.75" Right-Handed (Kaneshin 71A) 8.75" Left-Handed (Kaneshin 71B) 7.5" Right Handed Curved Handle (Kaneshin 70A) 9.5" Right-Handed Folding (Kaneshin 7452) Tool Tips Blade Length of Kaneshin 71A+B: 2.95"; 70A: 2.7" Blade Length of Kaneshin 7452...
As others have mentioned if you are capable of putting an sharp edge on a single bevel tool great!
If not, the breakaway disposable utility blades work fine, just a little wasteful IMO
JEads
Mame
I learned to graft while at Michael Hagedorn's. We would use these disposable blades. 3-4 grafts and then toss them. No holder. you get used to holding them firmly and doing the cuts you need to do. Nothing fancy, just sharp and effective. Most people cannot sharpen a knife to a fine enough edge to shave with, which is needed for grafting. These blades solve that problem.
JoeR
Masterpiece
I can't picture how or why you would use the beveled/ chisel tools- I'll see if there's a thread on that.
Thank you for the posts. @JEads those are what I've used in the past, but if I'm grafting a lot of nursery trees, it can be a bit much. I'll probably stick to those and see if they make handles that would help
BrianBay9
Masterpiece
Check out Jonas here https://bonsaitonight.com/2010/03/02/trunk-grafting-black-pine/
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
The chisels are commonly used for grafting scions on JBP. The ones I use were shaped to match the ones I used when training with Boon. Working with species that have heavier bark require different techniques than very young material with smooth bark. I can understand that they are not needed for common nursery propagation.
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
For those interested in learning Japanese black pine grafting techniques with chisels there is an excellent article in International Bonsai magazine Winter 1979. The English translation of the original Japanese article published in 1978.
For those wondering about the other itwo lesser known items in the second image post @7. They are both devices for accurately cutting scions with the least amount of tissue damage. The cutting block is a narrow edge to hold the scion straight while making the first long cut and the subsequent short cut. The wood block with the rubber surface aids in cutting preparation when using grafting knife or razor blade. The softer surface allows the straight cut with less tendency to crush the cambium when cutting. The other items in the photo should be self explanatory! grafting pins, caulk, various types of grafting film. The only normal materials not shown in the photo are the small plastic baggies used to seal in the scion along with some damp sphagnum moss and the wire used to attach the completed graft in the bag to the branch.
If my memory is working I need to give credit to Brent at Evergreen Garden Works who showed me his grafting tile for cutting scions ( lines them up nice and straight ) and his idea of the rubber on the block for cuttings. They both work well and are easily made.
For those wondering about the other itwo lesser known items in the second image post @7. They are both devices for accurately cutting scions with the least amount of tissue damage. The cutting block is a narrow edge to hold the scion straight while making the first long cut and the subsequent short cut. The wood block with the rubber surface aids in cutting preparation when using grafting knife or razor blade. The softer surface allows the straight cut with less tendency to crush the cambium when cutting. The other items in the photo should be self explanatory! grafting pins, caulk, various types of grafting film. The only normal materials not shown in the photo are the small plastic baggies used to seal in the scion along with some damp sphagnum moss and the wire used to attach the completed graft in the bag to the branch.
If my memory is working I need to give credit to Brent at Evergreen Garden Works who showed me his grafting tile for cutting scions ( lines them up nice and straight ) and his idea of the rubber on the block for cuttings. They both work well and are easily made.
