Pixar
Chumono
Where do i chop my first grafted Plum tree - somewhere above the graft ?
Grafted Plum tree - first chop
- Thread starter Pixar
- Start date
Pixar
Chumono
Approximate height 6 feet ( some branches ) grafting about 1.5 feet from the root system
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Depends what you want from your tree.
I suspect it is obvious that cutting below the graft will leave you only with the root stock (probably myrobolan plum) but maybe only obvious to those with some plant experience?
Cutting above the graft will usually give new shoots from the grafted variety. You may also get new shoots growing below the graft. Those will be root stock variety and can overtake the grafted section so best to rub off shoots growing below the graft as soon as possible.
1.5 ft above roots is typical for fruit trees but obviously not so good for bonsai. You could layer just below the graft to get new roots and bring the graft closer to the roots and therefore less obvious.
I suspect it is obvious that cutting below the graft will leave you only with the root stock (probably myrobolan plum) but maybe only obvious to those with some plant experience?
Cutting above the graft will usually give new shoots from the grafted variety. You may also get new shoots growing below the graft. Those will be root stock variety and can overtake the grafted section so best to rub off shoots growing below the graft as soon as possible.
1.5 ft above roots is typical for fruit trees but obviously not so good for bonsai. You could layer just below the graft to get new roots and bring the graft closer to the roots and therefore less obvious.
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
- Messages
- 11,427
- Reaction score
- 23,610
- USDA Zone
- 5b
Air layers. Somewhere fairly high up the trunk, or even just a branch. Most plums will produce roots, you do not need part of the understock as part of your air layer. You can create multiple trees this way.
Pixar
Chumono
Got the Plum tree today , I'll try and air layers below the graft ( it's very low to the root system )
The last time i did an air layer it did not work ( it was a Curry leaf tree ) don't know what I did wrong maybe I didn't go deep enough with my cutting down to the cadbuim layer
The last time i did an air layer it did not work ( it was a Curry leaf tree ) don't know what I did wrong maybe I didn't go deep enough with my cutting down to the cadbuim layer
RJG2
Omono
I wouldn't go below the graft. Do you first one (or more) up high.
Post a picture and we can make suggestions.
Pixar
Chumono
RJG2
Omono
Looks like you have three good trunks. If it were me, I would do three air layers - one towards the top of each trunk.
After those are separated, you should get more branching lower, and can do more air layers next year - working your way down.
There isn't a huge difference in trunk diameter between the top and bottom, so I don't think it would be worth it to layer down low and chop - you'd lose a lot of material (and practice).
Now is probably a good time for you in the southern hemisphere.
Can't really see the third trunk, but something like this:
After those are separated, you should get more branching lower, and can do more air layers next year - working your way down.
There isn't a huge difference in trunk diameter between the top and bottom, so I don't think it would be worth it to layer down low and chop - you'd lose a lot of material (and practice).
Now is probably a good time for you in the southern hemisphere.
Can't really see the third trunk, but something like this:
Pixar
Chumono
OK ,thanks very much . I'll stick to what you have suggested
I think I'll try and add some movement into the bottom trunk
I think I'll try and add some movement into the bottom trunk
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Your graft is really low. That's the bulge and kink just above soil level. Anything above that point is the grafted variety. The first fork is just where the original single trunk was chopped to make it branch out.
A trunk chop (before or after layering) will give you taper as well as a bend in the trunk as the new shoot grows in a different direction.
Agree with @Leo in N E Illinois that plums generally root well so you can layer anywhere. Cuttings strike pretty easily too.
Layering just under the fork will give a trunk with taper and bends or a twin or triple trunk tree.
A trunk chop (before or after layering) will give you taper as well as a bend in the trunk as the new shoot grows in a different direction.
Agree with @Leo in N E Illinois that plums generally root well so you can layer anywhere. Cuttings strike pretty easily too.
Layering just under the fork will give a trunk with taper and bends or a twin or triple trunk tree.
Pixar
Chumono
Thank you that’s what I was thinking . I’ll air layer just below the fork hopefully it will take etc….
