Grafted Japanese Maple’s

cmsheehan

Sapling
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Natick, Massachusetts
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Hello, I am new to bonsai, so apologies if this is common knowledge. I recently found 3 Japanese Maple trees at my local nursery, they are all grafted. Two are Inaba Shidare and one is a Tamukeyama. My question is, would these be suitable for bonsai the way they are (grafted) or is it preferred to use them for air layering, to then create a bonsai? Is a grafted tree considered undesirable because it is not “pure” therefore a new tree should be taken from the grafted tree? Thanks in advance.
 
Some grafts are better than others, it's really up to you to decide if it bothers you or not. You probably won't find many grafted maples in big shows. If the thickness and color of the stock match reasonably well and the graft is lower it's generally a cheaper option than buying bonsai stock. Not all varieties will layer, so research that before buying one you are planning to layer. Good luck
 
some people don't like grafts, others don't mind them so much. sometimes the bark color on the graft is a bit too different from the stock for my liking. grafted plants are good for growing out though, and a lot of japanese maples should air layer pretty well, might wanna do some searching for those varieties to get more specific info.


in general, grafting can be a good thing in bonsai, some people graft foliage from one type of juniper onto the trunk of another type. what becomes important is making it look natural, or at least look good.
 
Thanks so much for the speedy responses! I appreciate your help. This makes perfect sense to me, I could tell immediately they had been grafted, however as you both pointed out they were all much more affordable for pretty good looking trees. About $70 each, in 3 gallon pots. Very slender trunks still, but I think it’s a good starting point for me. I have read that red dissectum, (which I believe these are), as a general rule of thumb, will likely be weak on its own roots.
I will definitely do some more research before deciding. Thanks again!
 
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Here is a database of Japanese maples that air layer/grow from cuttings.

 
Here is a database of Japanese maples that air layer/grow from cuttings.

Beautiful, thank you!
 
Like others have said, it really depends on the graft. There are some people doing grafts for bonsai use that are much less visible and/or lower on the root stock. I know people often ground layer grafted trees, but I do wonder about the quality of the roots of some cultivars—after all, there is a reason they use the species for the understock.
Is a grafted tree considered undesirable because it is not “pure” therefore a new tree should be taken from the grafted tree?
I don’t think this would be a concern. If you can’t tell, it shouldn’t matter, but almost anyone will know that most Japanese maples that are cultivars are grafted.

If I’m shopping for a grafted tree, I’ll always be looking primarily for a good graft union. Basically everything else on a nursery maple will be throw away in the vast majority of cases.

A bad graft union is either one that swells, has a scar, or has a visible difference in color between the root stock and the scion. The maple photo attached shows what I believe to be a graft that has mostly disappeared but still has a horizontal line. The white pine, which is a recent nursery stock acquisition, has a bit of a bulge below the graft and a very visible scar, but the colors match close enough, so I think it will work long term.
 

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Imane shidare is an arching cascading dissectum maple. One of the best for landscape.
Tamukeyama is also a dissectum, but is a more weeping dwarf and has a fast growing habit.

Not the usual mainline bonsai, yet that doesn’t mean a lot except the tree style would be limilted from the gitgo. The biggest issue would be if the leaves don’t reduce much. In this case the tree size would need to be larger.

Mendocino Maples produces some of the best grafted Japanese maple trees I’ve ever seen. They sell some maples specifically chosen for bonsai. There are some available for sale now. The most popular are usually sold out when they come available. I’ve two of their maples and the grafts are extremely low and virtually imperceptible.

Just a thought.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
The weeping cultivars of JM look great as landscape trees but rarely make good bonsai. They usually have longer internodes so making tight foliage pads is difficult. Leaves are bigger. They will reduce but not to the same size as many other cultivars. The weeping habit is difficult to train into a tree shape. It can be done but you'll need lots of patience and lots of wire.
If you are happy to have a 'bonsai' that's just a tree in a pot these are OK but if you aspire to show quality bonsai I'd look for other cultivars or just plain JM
 
Landscape nurseries can be a great place to find some material but in general not a great place to find japanese maple material.
True in general, but last time I was at my favorite nursery they had large maples of arakawa, koto hime, katsura, and shishigashira all with good grafts. If I had the space for an air layer mother plant…
 
The weeping cultivars of JM look great as landscape trees but rarely make good bonsai. They usually have longer internodes so making tight foliage pads is difficult. Leaves are bigger. They will reduce but not to the same size as many other cultivars. The weeping habit is difficult to train into a tree shape. It can be done but you'll need lots of patience and lots of wire.
If you are happy to have a 'bonsai' that's just a tree in a pot these are OK but if you aspire to show quality bonsai I'd look for other cultivars or just plain JM
Thanks for your input! This brings up another question I have. In my front yard I have a giant weeping Japanese Cherry tree. It’s a beautiful tree! I tried to take a few cuttings this past spring but they didn’t work. Anyone have any suggestions for how I can get a proper cutting or even air layer from it?
 
I have not tried growing cherry as cuttings but a quick search online says it is possible but best done in spring as the buds begin to open.
Any tree that can grow as cuttings can also layer so the layer may be more sure fire than cuttings which need specific conditions for success.
You seem quite taken with weeping trees. Again, they look great as landscape plants but often more difficult as bonsai.
 
I have not tried growing cherry as cuttings but a quick search online says it is possible but best done in spring as the buds begin to open.
Any tree that can grow as cuttings can also layer so the layer may be more sure fire than cuttings which need specific conditions for success.
You seem quite taken with weeping trees. Again, they look great as landscape plants but often more difficult as bonsai.
Thanks! I was also thinking about trying to air layer the cherry, I’ll see how that goes.
Yes, the therapist said I should try to show more emotions, so I’m doing it through weeping trees. They make me smile! 😂
 
There is a ryusen cultivar of maple that naturally weeps. Evergreen Gardenworks has cutting grown versions.
 
True in general, but last time I was at my favorite nursery they had large maples of arakawa, koto hime, katsura, and shishigashira all with good grafts. If I had the space for an air layer mother plant…
I have shishigashira here locally in nurseries in NJ but none of the others. I have never seen arakawa outside the bonsai world. I have not specifically been looking but always check stock when Im looking around for specimens for customers.
 
The weeping cultivars of JM look great as landscape trees but rarely make good bonsai. They usually have longer internodes so making tight foliage pads is difficult. Leaves are bigger. They will reduce but not to the same size as many other cultivars. The weeping habit is difficult to train into a tree shape. It can be done but you'll need lots of patience and lots of wire.
If you are happy to have a 'bonsai' that's just a tree in a pot these are OK but if you aspire to show quality bonsai I'd look for other cultivars or just plain JM
Oh, I have a Coral Bark. So it won’t be good bonsai?
 
If by coral bark you’re referring to sango kaku (commonly called called coral bark in the US, but probably more accurately coral tower), then that should do fine for bonsai.
 
I want to go back to the primary question that was asked. I think when most people look at maples like in a nursery setting they are looking mostly at the leaves and branches. In bonsai we generally view the trunk as being of primary importance. This is what the way is drawn to and it is how we judge if it’s a good/bad young/old expensive/cheap tree. We often next look at the nebari or the flair of the trunk, after that comes branches, leaves the type etc.

I would say most serious bonsai growers don’t have grafted trees with the exception of a few which were probably grafted for bonsai intent. Typically with a graft junction at or even below root level. The biggest potential problems with grafted trees are usually related to the difference in bark color, texture and growth vigor. If the root stock is much more vigorous or the other way around the tree will develop a diameter mismatch that only gets worse with time. The same is potentially true for bark texture and color. In general maples are fairly cooperative for air layering. That said I attempted to layer a red leaf Japanese maple off its graft union this summer with zero roots. For some reason many of my air layers did not do so well for me this year but many did fine including hinoki cypress, crab apple, Korean hornbeam and pomegranate. We had a relatively cool early summer in San Francisco where the summers are cool in the first place.

Personally I really enjoy grafting though mostly I have experience grafting pines which I do every year. Personally I think it’s a good skill to have and I encourage everyone interested in bonsai or tree growing to practice grafting skills so if and when you feed to graft you know what your doing. This includes aporoach grafting, root grafting, scion grafting etc,

If you know how to graft then you can obtain the beginnings by simply getting the genetics which I have been able to get from friends, arboretums ordering scion etc. Once you have a branch growing you have the genetics and can begin to develop and propagate. This comes in handy if you ever find a juniper with an amazing trunk but don’t care for the foliage or you want to start some JBP cork bark trees. Both grafting and layering are good skills to have. Good tools for the tool box.

I have one dedicated pine tree for just holding pine genetics. It’s a Frankenstein for sure. It currently has about ten different pine spice species on it. It’s a main scion source when I graft cork barks. It also has things like Pinus sylvestris ‘Beuvronensis’ in case I want to start a few of those some day.

Happy grafting and anti-grafting or air layering.
 
Oh, I have a Coral Bark. So it won’t be good bonsai?
Coral bark may be OK for bonsai. I have 1 that I have been battling for years. It is reluctant to ramify so I only have a trunk and whippy branches. Not sure I would bother again.
You should also be aware that the red bark of coral bark is only on the new shoots. Trunk and main branches revert to grey bark after a year or 2. You will not have a brilliant red trunk on Coral bark bonsai.

I would say most serious bonsai growers don’t have grafted trees with the exception of a few which were probably grafted for bonsai intent. Typically with a graft junction at or even below root level. The biggest potential problems with grafted trees are usually related to the difference in bark color, texture and growth vigor. If the root stock is much more vigorous or the other way around the tree will develop a diameter mismatch that only gets worse with time. The same is potentially true for bark texture and color.
I believe there are far more grafted bonsai out there than most of us realize. I thought I was a serious bonsai grower and I have a number of grafted bonsai, including several Japanese maples but nobody else would be able to tell where the grafts are. Most grafts simply disappear as the tree grows. Bark colour is not an issue in Japanese maples as almost all cultivars end up with grey, mature bark so that colour difference is only temporary when the tree is very young.
Granted, there are some grafts that swell more than usual but, being interested in grafting and grafted plants I've checked a great many older grafts and the swollen ones are certainly a minority. I guess I'd be pissed if I spent years developing a bonsai then found the graft was swelling.

Bark texture is one aspect that will stand out, probably forever. That's where I would refuse a grafted plant or remove the graft as soon as possible.
 
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