Fused trunk JM.

Messages
269
Reaction score
701
Location
South sound
USDA Zone
8
About 7 years ago I wrapped 24 seedlings together and planted them. I’ve rewrapped a few times because I was curious. But my mistake was not letting them grow out so the trunks didn’t thicken quickly. The last couple years I have and now it’s looking trunkish. It’s down to about 15 “trunks” in the canopy. Do I remove the dead trunks from around the outside? If there’s small gaps, should I wrap it again?
I was just trying something and now that it’s been alive for a while I should probably fo something with it. Right?F3380D86-B62E-4020-83F1-468DC9DFCF11.jpeg32198EEB-5228-4184-A4EC-D892FEA38EDD.jpegDB118DCC-3265-4B1E-8599-65AFCCF84367.jpegEC99DE5B-E3CF-4C1B-986C-A014499C527A.jpeg
 
If there are gaps and re-wrapping closes the gaps, that's what I'd do.

I inherited a similar project years ago and it seemed pretty well done so I let it continue on its path. I moved it from an 8" tokoname trainer to an Anderson flat and left it alone. The work I had to do to sort out the roots was pretty drastic so the growth in the spring was energized which led to it sending a long leader. I let it grow as much as it would and in the fall I cut back some parts that'd died to start building the trunk line (and letting those places heal better). Its going on its 3rd year in this Anderson flat and I'm probably going to leave it at least one more year before I repot it. The extra space for roots along with letting it occasionally send roots into the ground and letting it grow wild has really started to close all the spaces between the seedlings. Its a few years from refinement, ...and even then it won't have the trunkline many Japanese maples are prized for.

So, back to your tree. Close the gaps manually if you're able. If not, grow the gaps closed.
 
If there are gaps and re-wrapping closes the gaps, that's what I'd do.

I inherited a similar project years ago and it seemed pretty well done so I let it continue on its path. I moved it from an 8" tokoname trainer to an Anderson flat and left it alone. The work I had to do to sort out the roots was pretty drastic so the growth in the spring was energized which led to it sending a long leader. I let it grow as much as it would and in the fall I cut back some parts that'd died to start building the trunk line (and letting those places heal better). Its going on its 3rd year in this Anderson flat and I'm probably going to leave it at least one more year before I repot it. The extra space for roots along with letting it occasionally send roots into the ground and letting it grow wild has really started to close all the spaces between the seedlings. Its a few years from refinement, ...and even then it won't have the trunkline many Japanese maples are prized for.

So, back to your tree. Close the gaps manually if you're able. If not, grow the gaps closed.
They will just have to grow out then. They don’t move at at. I can just see little gaps but I guess it will sort itself out.
I appreciate that you have something similar. Mine definitely will be going into a more suitable container next spring.
Is growing it as a broom style an option? The branching kind of lends itself to that but it is hard to see right now. I’ll take more pics in the fall.
 
The 'JBP trick' of wing the (collection of) trunks and letting it embed will work to improve the fusing as well at fatten the trunks. Of course it comes with the same consequence that you'll create a barber pole if you aren't creative in the line of wrapping. It will eventually all even out in the same way that wire scarring does (or doesn't).

On the other hand, crossing branches of maples will usually fuse 'spontaneously' because maple stems tend to become quite rigid with age. IOW, it will, indeed, sort itself out. However, it may art may not be too your liking, but it will be 'natural' (if that matters).

Broom is it if you just let all stems grow. But other forms are possible by pruning to retard the growth of some stems and even ultimately eliminating some --> clump, for example.
Also, ask yourself how one might go about creating something like Walter Pall's famous JM.
 
Letting all trunks including dead space fillers grow until all solidly fused together will allow removal of some upper trees with remaining trunk part staying alive. If not solidly fused yet these will die instead🤨.
 
I've done a few fused trunk tridents too. Very few that I'd keep though.
Live wood will not grow over soft, rotting wood so definitely get as many dead stems out as possible so the remaining live trunks can fill the spaces.
If they are well fused and remaining trunks don't move then there's probably no need to keep wrapping. That's only to hold them close so they start to fuse. After that's happened its just a matter of growing to fill the spaces.
Broom style looks the most likely with this upright trunk with no taper in the first section though I don't think broom is a natural style for JM. Some of the upper branches (trunks) will need to be pruned away to leave space for the ones you keep but don't do that until the individual trunks have fused fully.
If you want to grow another trunk style you can but it will just take more years of growing.
 
Maybe you can split apart the base some to create a wider base in spring. Are you able to put it in the ground or A. Flat.
Then as others suggested grow the gaps closed?
 
Maybe you can split apart the base some to create a wider base in spring. Are you able to put it in the ground or A. Flat.
Then as others suggested grow the gaps closed?
I’m planning on diving into the roots this spring to see what’s going on down there. I’ve never even scraped away the top layer of soil to look. I just really like growing trees, now I’d like to try to make some bonsai. Or at least come close
 
theres a couple guys on youtube who do this with great results. definitely suited to a broom. unless i can squeeze new seedlings into vacant gaps left by removal of dead trees i might opt to let the tree grow out, maybe in a grow bed.
 
Back
Top Bottom