Full sunlight after repot? Port Jackson Fig Juniper Bonsai

[Rbonsai2]

Hi there,

I repotted my bonsai for the very first time 3 weeks ago, after having my bonsai in the same pot for about 4 years (when I got it). The tree seems to be adapting well, though I see 2 yellowing leaves and a few transparent ones. I read online that the tree should be kept in indirect/shaded light during recovery after repot. However, now that it's been 3 weeks, I am wondering when it's okay to move my tree back to my west-facing windowsill, where it sat for the past 4 years. It receives a lot of direct afternoon sunlight, especially now as summer is here. I don't want my leaves to burn, though I think it needs more sunlight for photosynthesis as the leaves aren't as green / kind of transparent.

Would really appreciate advice! Thanks.

See photos below!

 

[Shibui]

After repotting my figs go straight back where they always live. Change of position always affects trees as the leaves try to adapt to different light levels. I find my trees do far better when they are in the same spot, even after repotting.
The rider would be to consider how severe the root reduction was and how much top was removed at the same time. After root reduction approaching 90% I do offer some additional support for a couple of weeks.
3 weeks should be long enough for your fig to adjust to the new amount of roots. With reasonable temps there should already be lots of new root tips all working hard to absorb water, etc.

Looks like all those yellow leaves are older ones. Need to be aware that even evergreen leaves have a useful life. After a couple of years of hard work they do not perform efficiently and the tree discards them in favor of the newer ones. That's a completely natural cycle.
One consequence of that is the branches will get longer and longer and only have leaves near the ends which does not look great as bonsai.
Pruning is the solution and it is past time that yours was trimmed. I would cut all those branches back by at least 1/2. Ficus are really good at growing new shoots, even on older, bare wood so pruning is not detrimental. It will actually make the tree much bushier.

 

[Rbonsai2]

Thank you so much for your quick response! I did remove about 50% of the roots and 25% of the shoots when repotting, so I suppose the tree is killing off some leaves to make up for the unbalanced root-to-shoot ratio. I killed a bonsai in the past (that one was a Juniper) due to a mix of different things I did wrong, one of which was too much pruning, so I've always been hesitant to prune this one too much. But I'll definitely give it a shot if that is what is going to make it bushier, without hurting it's growth!

I've moved the tree back to its original spot now, and tomorrow it will be back to receiving full direct sun. Would you also recommend misting? I do it once in a while for increased moisture, but I've read that too much can lead to fungal problems.

Also, now that we're moving on to summer, the tree will be growing more shoots. Is it still okay to prune during the growing season? Or should I wait to cut back my branches as you suggested in the fall/winter?

 

[Shibui]

Growing season is by far the best time to root prune and o prune the branches. I don't do any work on figs through winter. Repots are really late in spring and through to mid summer. Ficus just keep growing even when I take off lots of roots in warm weather. They do not seem to do as well when root pruned in cooler weather.
Same response to pruning. New shoots in just a few weeks after pruning during growing season. Much slower when pruned in autumn or winter.
I don't think misting will be necessary. There should be some new roots by now and ficus are almost succulent so should not need special treatment. I note that this is a Port Jackson fig so one of the toughest there is.
Leaf fungal problems are much more common for me during cooler winter months.

You don't have a location on your profile. I assumed you were in Northern hemisphere and have based the info above on your season going into warmer weather but PJ is much more common down here. A location is advisable if you want season specific or climate specific info.

 

[Rbonsai2]

Thanks so much! I added my location now - Toronto, Canada. I think I'll let my bonsai get used to the full sun for a couple of weeks and then take your advice to prune. If I prune back a branch by half (especially my thicker ones), will that prevent the branch from continuing to extend in the future? I noticed most of my leaves are at the end of the branch so if I cut by half, without leaving any leaves, will that cause the whole branch to die?

Also, do you recommend fertilizing? I recently purchased a 20-20-20 bonsai fertilizer, though I haven't used it yet.

 

[Rbonsai2]

Also, yesterday and this morning, I woke up to small yellow/brown liquid beads underneath some of the leaves of my tree. I have never noticed this before! (See photo). Is this something to be concerned about? And why does the bead form?

Thank you so much for all your help so far!! I really appreciate it!

 

[Shibui]

I have not seen beads like that. Is it actually a drop of liquid? There are some pests that live on ficus. Could this be eggs or waste from a bug? I can't see any of the usual suspects but some pests leave drops of 'honeydew' as they feed.

If I prune back a branch by half (especially my thicker ones), will that prevent the branch from continuing to extend in the future? I noticed most of my leaves are at the end of the branch so if I cut by half, without leaving any leaves, will that cause the whole branch to die?

Also, do you recommend fertilizing? I recently purchased a 20-20-20 bonsai fertilizer, though I haven't used it yet.

Quite coincidentally I am in the process of writing pruning notes tonight for my local bonsai group to explain pruning to promote ramification in bonsai.
Figs are very good at growing new buds. There are dormant buds at the base of every leaf in all trees. Some species can still activate those dormant buds even long after the leaves have gone. Ficus is one of those so we can prune fearlessly anywhere on the tree and expect to get new shoots. Pruning will not kill a branch on ficus, even when we prune all the leaves off. You can still see many of the node where the leaves have fallen Each node has the potential to produce new buds. You can even prune Ficus rubiginosa close to the ground and the stump will sprout new shoots. (note that I am not advising this for your tree, just an illustration of extreme pruning and the ability for PJ to respond)
Pruning does not stop a branch extending. It just activates new shoots that will then grow out long again. Bonsai pruning is regular and lifelong to develop and then maintain a compact tree.
Always prune further back that you first imagine. New shoots will only grow from the few nodes just below the cut and those new shoots only ever get longer so prune well back so that the new shoots will grow out to the desired tree outline. Jst taking the tips off will not produce a densely branched tree. i think you will need to take off at least 3/4 of any long branches on this tree and maybe 1/2 of shorter ones.
It may be frightening the first time but you will become confident after the tree responds with new shoots.

Strong growing trees usually respond far better to pruning. It is better to delay pruning on weaker trees and concentrate on getting them healthy in order to get a good response.
This tree appears to be in moderate health. I would advise feed and try to maximize care to build up its health and vitality for a couple of months at least before pruning. Even if that means the tree grows wild until next summer it is still OK because this is a ficus rubiginosa and they can grow new shoots wherever we cut. The healthier the tree the better the response.

Mix your fertilizer according to instructions. I apply every 2 weeks but that is with plenty of watering while the trees are outdoors. I assume this tree lives indoors all year round. It may be better to use a bit less indoors because your watering regime might not flush out as much leftover nutrients. You may need to do some searching to find appropriate fert regime for indoor trees. Good news is that PJ love fertilizer. I have seen really heavy feeding that would probably kill other species and PJs just grow faster on it. Should be fine to use your fert at recommended dose and intervals.

 

[sorce]

Those drops are usually a sign of excessive water, but they should be White, Brown may indicate something is feeding on it.

I think it would grow better in that lower dish with some holes in it.

That pot is dope though.

Sorce

 

[sorce]

I am not advising this for your tree

That is good lol!

While I agree ....a ficus will shoot growth from anywhere, repeatedly...

Up here, if you don't have buds showing, (leaves for me for caution even) there is a strong possibility that the time before leaves appear is simply too great for the tree, and it will abandon the branch.

A houseplant. ....I wouldn't worry about. A bonsai close to finished.....plan better!

Sorce

 

[Rbonsai2]

Thanks so much! I'll give the fertilizer a try the next time I water, hopefully new leaves/buds will grow closer to the base and I can prune it next year.

As for the brown droplets... any idea what I should do about it? Sorce, you mentioned it could be a sign that something is feeding. I did some digging around and did see a tiny bug walking around (it was whitish/transparent/yellowish), but it moved too quickly for me to give a good enough description. What can I do about it?

Also, I just repotted my bonsai into this new pot. Do you think it is too small and that's why I should repot it into the plastic one beneath it?

 

[sorce]

Freshly molted leafhoppers are that color. And they crawl around leaves fast, and jump quick.

I don't see them eating the thick leaves of a ficus though.

I'm sure the droplets are from too much water. The brown color could be just because it's a port Jackson. Not familiar. Or perhaps even something in the water or fert?

@Anthony had me put a ficus in a wide shallow dish to swell the base. It works. And they seem to grow better too.
Aesthetically as well, that dish is closer to an appropriate shape.

I would love to see the crackle dish with a nice kusamono. Something with flowers.

Please don't Repot now though!

Sorce

 

[Rbonsai2]

I think you might be right, it could be from too much water - I'll continue to keep an eye out and let it dry out a bit before my next watering. Hopefully that helps. Thank you for the advice!

I won't repot yet, perhaps next year. By the way, is it okay to pot a bonsai in a basic plastic pot? I had understood that they need clay/ceramic. If so, I can definitely drill some holes into it when it's time

 

[Literati]

Not a Ficus Rubiginosa or Port Jackson fig. You have a Ficus Microcarpa.

 

[Shibui]

By the way, is it okay to pot a bonsai in a basic plastic pot? I had understood that they need clay/ceramic. If so, I can definitely drill some holes into it when it's time

The difference between a bonsai and a tree is a bonsai pot. Any bonsai can be grown in a plastic pot. Most of us grow trees in larger plastic pots so they will grow faster ad get thick quicker. When the desired size is achieved the tree can be shifted to a nice display pot

Ficus rarely voluntarily bud lower. All resources are sent to upper buds so the tree can achieve its aim to be the tallest in the forest. Pruning is required to get new buds on bare branches. When pruned in the rowing season most ficus will sprout new shoots in a few weeks. Weeping fig is sometimes reluctant to grow new shoots from bare wood. I cannot understand why so many people persist with those when there are so many better species. This is not weeping fig so should be fine with pruning in spring or summer.

Not a Ficus Rubiginosa or Port Jackson fig. You have a Ficus Microcarpa.

The bark does appear to have more white spots than most PJs I have seen - one of the reasons I questioned earlier but it can be really hard to tell one species from another without fruit to provide the definitive ID. Rubiginosa or microcarpa does not really matter as both respond similar.

 

[Rbonsai2]

That makes sense, thanks Shibui!

This morning my tree had some brown spots on leaves. I did not see any bugs underneath leaves or in the trunk area, but as I mentioned yesterday, I saw a tiny whitish/yellowish/transparent insect crawling in the soil. I should note that two days ago I cleaned the leaves with a damp cloth to remove dust. Could the brown spots be a sign of bug infestation or is it due to how I cleaned the leaves? Either way, should I do something about it?

I attached photos so you can see, though there are more than just three leaves with discolouration.

I've never really had any problems like these with my tree before, so I'm really grateful for all of your help so far!