Florida Acer Rubrum Styling

[BeeDee]

I’m hoping to get some guidance with this Maple. I collected and planted this from seed in 2021 and have allowed it to grow pretty freely. I only clipped a few overlapping branches last year for the first time. I’ve read that larger collected specimen tend to rot or hollow out after a large trunk chop so I don’t really want to let it grow in ground and use that technique.
I guess my question is should I keep upgrading pots and let it get beefier or should I make a first large cut this year? And if I can cut it this year and have it heal correctly, where is best?
I’ve attached a photo where I think I have two good cuts, and then one of the full height of the tree.

Bonus Question* Can I address this ugly root at the same time?

 

[Gabler]

You're going to need to fix more than just one root.

For young red maples, I wash away all of the current soil, remove all roots that are growing the wrong direction, chop the other roots very short to build ramification, and chop the trunk back to where the straight section begins. About 5% die, and the rest have a rock-solid foundation as pre-bonsai.

 

[Gabler]

I would chop it at the three and remove the dieback the following year.

 

[Shibui]

I don't have access to A. rubrum but gather that it should be vigorous like trident maples so here are a few opinions for you to consider.
A thick trunk is only one aspect of a good bonsai. Nebari with well ramified roots, trunk taper and good branch ramification are also very important.
Allowing free growth to get a thick trunk is the easiest and quickest part of developing a bonsai. After that you need to address all the other aspects which takes way more years than growing the initial trunk.
Chopping high slows growth but does not give any other positive outcomes. New shoots and branches almost all grow from just below the chop so a high chop will almost always give high branches so you'll then have to chop lower in a few years. Much better to chop low initially. To develop good bonsai we need to try to ignore most of what's there and look at what could be there in a few years.
A low chop gives several positives: It begins the process of developing trunk taper. It will usually result in several new leaders growing. One of those will become the new trunk line - hopefully with an attractive bend in the trunk. Others will be sacrifice branches to help increase lower trunk thickness and trunk taper. Repeat this process over a few years and you should develop a trunk with good taper, attractive bends and smaller scars, some of which will already be healed thanks to the ongoing growth during this process.

It seems many people consider root pruning to be a problem - for them and for the trees. I have not found that to be true. Most trees are very good at growing new roots. Maples respond very quickly. Where 1 root is cut the tree grows many more so the tree is quickly back on track. You'll also develop a well ramified, radial nebari. Root pruning slows growth very little if at all. On the + side you develop a much better nebari while developing the trunk.

My advice would also be to chop low, bare root and root prune as @Gabler has advised. Both those operations can be done at the same time, in spring.

 

[Gabler]

I don't have access to A. rubrum but gather that it should be vigorous like trident maples so here are a few opinions for you to consider.

Where I live, it is more vigorous than a trident maple.

 

[BeeDee]

You're going to need to fix more than just one root.

For young red maples, I wash away all of the current soil, remove all roots that are growing the wrong direction, chop the other roots very short to build ramification, and chop the trunk back to where the straight section begins.

First of all thank you both. I understood that this was going to be necessary for this tree but I was nervous to do it all at once. You get nursery stock and don’t worry as much about drastic cuts, but a little seedling I planted I suppose I was a little more sentimental about. (Silly yes).

I don't have access to A. rubrum but gather that it should be vigorous like trident maples so here are a few opinions for you to consider.

Secondly, thank you for that detailed answer. I think you’re both right. I’ve definitely seen these maples mowed down in neighbors yards come back strong in spring like it never happened. I’m only starting to build the confidence to be more aggressive in my choices but I think this will be a good project for that.

 

[Kanorin]

First of all thank you both. I understood that this was going to be necessary for this tree but I was nervous to do it all at once. You get nursery stock and don’t worry as much about drastic cuts, but a little seedling I planted I suppose I was a little more sentimental about. (Silly yes).

Secondly, thank you for that detailed answer. I think you’re both right. I’ve definitely seen these maples mowed down in neighbors yards come back strong in spring like it never happened. I’m only starting to build the confidence to be more aggressive in my choices but I think this will be a good project for that.

Trust me - you will kick yourself a year from now if you don't chop it and begin regrowing with some more movement down low on the trunk. Good times to chop include right near the end of winter dormancy (before buds swell for the spring push) and after the first flush of growth has "hardened off," which is when the leaves develop their waxy coating. I like choice #3. Good luck!

 

[Wulfskaar]

First of all thank you both. I understood that this was going to be necessary for this tree but I was nervous to do it all at once. You get nursery stock and don’t worry as much about drastic cuts, but a little seedling I planted I suppose I was a little more sentimental about. (Silly yes).

Secondly, thank you for that detailed answer. I think you’re both right. I’ve definitely seen these maples mowed down in neighbors yards come back strong in spring like it never happened. I’m only starting to build the confidence to be more aggressive in my choices but I think this will be a good project for that.

I know the feeling. I've had the cold sweats feeling when doing something irreversible to my trees.

 

[Gabler]

"It's time to kill it or make it a bonsai."

 

[BeeDee]

I know the feeling. I've had the cold sweats feeling when doing something irreversible to my trees.

I am brutal to so many of my tropicals, but the pines, junipers and maples I’ve been coddling. But @Gabler is right, can’t make a good bonsai without taking that risk.

 

[minkes]

There are 3 trees. Just airlayer every year one part of the tree. Also lower part could be airlayered last year and problem with bad nebari will be gone

 

[Eckhoffw]

All great advice above!

One thing to consider for next time;

When you grow trees from seed, don’t be afraid to put some movement into the young trunks early on when it’s easy.

This will almost guarantee that you have movement later on even if you plan on chopping.

Good luck!

 

[Gabler]

All great advice above!

One thing to consider for next time;

When you grow trees from seed, don’t be afraid to put some movement into the young trunks early on when it’s easy.

This will almost guarantee that you have movement later on even if you plan on chopping.

Good luck!

Especially for conifers, since you can't make movement by chopping.