First Japanese White Pine added to my collection today

Likebull1

Mame
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Location
SE Pennsylvania
USDA Zone
7A
I drove three hours West today on a whim to check out a personal collection and came back with this Japanese White Pine.
It's not perfect but overall I'm happy with it.
The graft scar is super distracting (not sure if there is any way to remedy that but input is appreciated) ,it desperately needs a repot next year, and there is some pretty bad wire bite.

I'll probably repot it into something larger next year and grow it out some more. Especially to thicken the roots more and make them more appealing.
For the time being in just going to remove the wire and add some more soil.

Oh and critique away. I got a pretty decent deal but I would like to know where I went right and or wrong picking out this tree.

FRONT
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BACK
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That graft is way better than some I've seen. At least it is on a smooth bark species and not on dark bark JBP stock.
Plenty of shorter shoots instead of the usual long, bare branches so plenty to work with right away.
1 thicker upper branch and not much to fill the back of the tree but pine branches are flexible enough to move 1 or part of 1 to address that at some stage.

The roots are the most distracting part I see in the pictures. Consider removing the highest floater. Check whether there are better roots below to replace some of the higher upper roots or whether you can lower the root ball to bring existing roots down to ground level when repotting.

Overall I think you have chosen well.
 
The roots are definitely a huge distraction to me. I don't love how they just kind of shoot out in every direction with no rhyme or reason.
 
I would bury those roots as soon as possible. And then sort out root pruning when ready.
 
I would bury those roots as soon as possible. And then sort out root pruning when ready.
I buried them and did a proper watering immediately after the picture was taken.
Like an Idiot I forgot to ask how long the tree was in the pot but. Assuming quite a while considering how dense the root mass is and how oxidized the wire is hold the tree In
 
I buried them and did a proper watering immediately after the picture was taken.
Like an Idiot I forgot to ask how long the tree was in the pot but. Assuming quite a while considering how dense the root mass is and how oxidized the wire is hold the tree In
I would believe that your careful observation of the root mass and the oxidizing of the wire were better predictors of the tree's time in the pot. Most sellers will respond, accurate or not, based on clues from the buyer's desire. So, I think your observation is more valuable.
 
I would believe that your careful observation of the root mass and the oxidizing of the wire were better predictors of the tree's time in the pot. Most sellers will respond, accurate or not, based on clues from the buyer's desire. So, I think your observation is more valuable.
That's true. I definitely have to research when and how to do a proper repot. The only pines I have ever mess with are Mugo pines and I'm guessing the care is somewhat different.
 
I think the graft looks fine, but I would raise the soil level, or lean the trunk to tame the look of some of those roots that appear to be growing straight down.
 
I think the graft looks fine, but I would raise the soil level, or lean the trunk to tame the look of some of those roots that appear to be growing straight down.
I raised the soil level immediately after snapping a few pictures. The roots will definitely be the biggest challenge overall.
I did spend some time yesterday placing the pot at different angles and I agree that it will need to be planted at a different angle
 
I raised the soil level immediately after snapping a few pictures. The roots will definitely be the biggest challenge overall.
I did spend some time yesterday placing the pot at different angles and I agree that it will need to be planted at a different angle
I had a tree with a similar raised-root problem. I added substrate to fill the cavities around the root area and then added a generous amount of moss to the raised area. The moss prevented erosion and also kept the roots cooled and moist while exposed to the sunlight. In the long run the moss helped build a much better surface area of roots so I was able to prune more roots off the bottom. The bottom root pruning let me lower the tree in the pot so it fit better and gave me more angled-planting options. And then the moss build up was no longer needed.
 
I think it was a very reasonable selection. Young enough to continue to improve quickly without any major issues that cannot be improved. The key will be the slow and steady improvement of the nebari over time. I would begin with a repot in the late winter early spring to a suitable size grow box for the next few years while you rework the root ball and improve the structure of the tree. Others have noted the value in keeping the roots covered during the process, it is important.
The graft seems very reasonable in terms of similar bark characteristics and growth rate. It should age well, another important part of the selection.
look forward to seeing the progress.
 
I had a tree with a similar raised-root problem. I added substrate to fill the cavities around the root area and then added a generous amount of moss to the raised area. The moss prevented erosion and also kept the roots cooled and moist while exposed to the sunlight. In the long run the moss helped build a much better surface area of roots so I was able to prune more roots off the bottom. The bottom root pruning let me lower the tree in the pot so it fit better and gave me more angled-planting options. And then the moss build up was no longer needed.
Thanks for the advice! How do white pines respond to root trimming? I don't plan on going too aggressive but I wasn't sure if it's super delicate or not
 
I’m not sure on Japanese White Pine. Someone else should answer.

My experience is with Jack Pine and Eastern White Pine. The EWP may be the closest I get to a JWP…..and they are quite different. But anyway….My EWP root pruning has been taking off about 1/3 of the root mass…sometimes less than a third because my need is to fit the tree roots in a box for further growing. So I’m not exactly measuring how much is removed. I’ve not had a EWP that died yet though. My best timing for EWP root work has been late autumn to the beginning of winter. The EWP color looks less green, less vibrant, at the end of autumn….the start of the cold season for me. That’s usually my time to move pine trees and do root work. I’ve always believed that the EWPs have a good month and a half to repair and recover before the Arctic colds drop down.

Someone else likely has a more scientific and experience-driven timing approach for Japanese White Pine. It would be best to read their replies. I just do what has worked for me on the tree species I have.
 
That's true. I definitely have to research when and how to do a proper repot. The only pines I have ever mess with are Mugo pines and I'm guessing the care is somewhat different.

JWP should be repotted in late winter, early spring as the buds begin to swell. That is typically late March for me but could be a week or two earlier for you.
I have not had any issues with root pruning JWP within reason. I usually dont remove more than about a third of the root mass at a repot.
The key will be making sure there are plenty of feeder roots left once you are done trimming the roots back
 
JWP should be repotted in late winter, early spring as the buds begin to swell. That is typically late March for me but could be a week or two earlier for you.
I have not had any issues with root pruning JWP within reason. I usually dont remove more than about a third of the root mass at a repot.
The key will be making sure there are plenty of feeder roots left once you are done trimming the roots back
Thanks for the tip that's great to know! If I plan on potting up to grow the tree out should I still use a akadame/lava/pumice mix?
 
Thanks for the tip that's great to know! If I plan on potting up to grow the tree out should I still use a akadame/lava/pumice mix?
yes, you can. In theory, a substrate with a larger particle size (for example 6-7mm) allows stronger growth of roots and therefore branches than 3mm particles. And more fertilizer (for example biogold original, or liquid organic fertilizer) leads to more growth in theory. I say "in theory" because i don't know if JWP do like frequent watering and heavy fertilisation.

I saw, in a YT vid, a JWP with very big shoots which was drip fed with liquid chemical fertilizer incorporated into the irrigation water (professional strawberry grower installation)

you don't like it but for me the nebari is a strong point of your tree : i imagine this nebari in 20 years, with bigger roots, more ramifications, it will give your tree a very strong base & roots.
 
Thanks for the tip that's great to know! If I plan on potting up to grow the tree out should I still use a akadame/lava/pumice mix?
That is the ideal mix yes. I use medium size for my trees. Not sure what you mean by "grow it out". Are you planning to try and grow it much bigger or refine and develop what you have? If you are going to go for much bigger, you are looking at a project that will take many years
 
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