Fear of rusts (cedar-apple or cedar-quince)

[Poink88]

Now that I started playing with junipers...I am afraid of "rusts" (cedar-apple and cedar-quince) I have about a dozen crabapple and 2 quince (plus numerous cuttings) that I am now questioning whether I should keep or not.

My space is really tiny (about 19' x 19') and no matter how I position them...they are basically next to each other. We are also surrounded by cedar (ashe juniper) everywhere.

Is my fear unfounded?

Any advise & thoughts?

Thank you.

 

[crust]

Worried

My understanding is the spores necessary to transmit the fungus are ubiquitous and insidious and unavoidable if any of the hosts lurk within the winds breath(local). I have heard reliable sources claim that prophylactic fungicidal spraying works to maintain an uninfected plant. Once infected it will always be, but fungicides control it from gross spreading(it does for me anyway) credence was also given to keeping good hygiene and removing dropped infected leaves and fruiting fungus's within the bonsai collection, I always spray hawthorns with black spot leaves and spray gelatinous blobs on the junipers if they appear--it helps keep it under control. Copper is the common control, I have used Daconil with good effect too.

 

[armetisius]

Rusts/blight

Have used agrimycin to good effect on this and fire blight. Bit more than copper or some of the other fungicide/bactericides but I feel it acts quicker and seems to slap down an outbreak. Unfortunately, you have heard correctly. If there are apples/quince and any form of juniper in the same area--read that as 50 miles around--there is nothing to do but treat for it and cross your fingers. Be certain to get every bit of dropped foliage up and BURN IT. Also be certain to dip your shears in a bleach solution between working different trees. Good luck; I have only been fighting this on my apples/crabs for years and these are in the ground I can't imagine what it would do to potted versions of them.

 

[GrimLore]

Having several fruit trees I use this http://www.jacksonandperkins.com/pr...3&cadevice=c&gclid=CL-F4r6Iwr0CFWXl7Aod_mUA4g just prior to leafing in the Spring. Do not get it in your eyes like I did yesterday. I also found the in the last few seasons a potted rose near a Crabapple and Plum also needed treatment during the season. I do not know what it can spread to but it can spread.

Grimmy

 

[Poink88]

Thanks guys!

Do I have to be worried with ume, plum, and apricot also?

 

[GrimLore]

Plum for certain - not sure on the others but honest I treat all fruiting either way since I saw it was able to spread easily.

Grimmy

 

[Poink88]

Dumb question.

Do I treat the Junipers as well? How often?

Thank you.

 

[GrimLore]

Can't help with Junipers my Wife kills those and prefers not to see anymore I am getting some tiny ones anyways for a Tanuki project or two soon.

Grimmy

 

[jk_lewis]

A dilute lime sulfur spray in the spring and early summer on apples, juniper, hawthorn will help keep cedar apple rust from being a majorproblem. READ THE LABEL for fungicide dilution.

All members of the Prunus genus (plums, peaches, apricots, almonds) are VERY susceptible to fungus (and then borer) attacks. LS can help here, too, but it takes more and more often in warmer climates.

 

[Poink88]

A dilute lime sulfur spray in the spring and early summer on apples, juniper, hawthorn will help keep cedar apple rust from being a majorproblem. READ THE LABEL for fungicide dilution.

All members of the Prunus genus (plums, peaches, apricots, almonds) are VERY susceptible to fungus (and then borer) attacks. LS can help here, too, but it takes more and more often in warmer climates.

Thanks jkl!

 

[kirk@localbonsai.com]

Nick Lenz's book has a lot of info on Malus diseases, that could be a good reference for you.

Some info from Conn. Agricultural Experiment Station: http://www.ct.gov/caes/cwp/view.asp?a=2815&q=376758

Best of luck

 

[sikadelic]

I have 4 apple seedlings just starting their second year. I have no experience fighting these diseases so far and am in the dark about what you guys are talking about. Should I just trash the apples?

Looks like I have some research to do.

 

[Beng]

Crabapples and Roses are HIGHLY susceptible to fungus. Cedar apple rust isn't overly common. If you have a juniper with it it's not a huge problem you just have to remove the fruiting bodies in early stages and like others have said don't prune a crabapple or other fruit tree without sterilizing. But if you allow the juniper to produce orange cedar apple rust fruiting bodies it can spread FAR.

On the flip side if a crabapple has it on the leaves in any way it will spread distances and is contagious to all junipers within 30 feet or so. I keep my shimpakus and junipers at one end of my garden and my crabapples about 40 feet away and around a corner at the other end of my garden.

This reminds me it's about time to spray some fungicide again.

For junipers I rotate copper mixed with honor guard, with daconil mixed with honor guard, with mancozeb mixed with honor guard. Honor guard is the key it really knocks down fungus on fruit trees and seems to greatly increase the effect others have. I don't know why I just know it works.

 

[Poink88]

Thanks Ben.

I'll get more chemicals this week. I try stay away from them as much as possible but seems no choice with crabapples and the like.

 

[Beng]

Ya... I too wish I didn't have to spray, but I don't see any way around it.

 

[kirk@localbonsai.com]

plus.... some of these fungicides systemics can get expensive!

 

[sikadelic]

I picked up 70% neem oil concentrate after reading this thread. I'll do applications every 14 days/month or so as a preventative.

 

[jkd2572]

I mix fungicide with my insecticide and spray once a month as a preventative. I have learned even this year I need to start earlier. First spray was in March, for me too late for damage from both. I have a spider mite problem so bad that I have had to treat landscape plants last year and this year. I have 15 feet long nana junipers planted in the landscape that for the first time this year I noticed were not looking so good. Did the paper shake method and it looked like I poured a pepper shaker had dumped out and everything thing was walking around. I put on gas mask and went nuclear with the good stuff. My worst enemy is these little guys. Sorry to get off topic, but insects and fungus just suck in this hobby.