Dwarf Yaupon Holly progression

Hartinez

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Location
Albuquerque, NM
USDA Zone
7
I bought this Holly from our local nursery this spring. The base is fantastic. 4” at the nebari and 10” in height. I reduced the rootball significantly and cut back major branches that were overgrown and lacked taper. I let grow and trimmed heavy once mid summer. However I read an article on Bonsai tonight that @markyscott posted that had me changing my approach. https://bonsaitonight.com/2016/07/26/developing-yaupon-holly-bonsai-a-tale-of-when-not-to-cut/

Rather than trim long growth, I will only thin the interior and leave shoots to grow out for a few years at a time, then cut back. This will allow the growth to thicken before ramification.

Initially I did not seal the major cuts but after reading a post by @markyscott (once again) I decided to recut and seal each large wound.

Next spring on plan on address below soil line root issues. It was heavily root bound in the nursery pot, and I’d love to flatten out a few promising roots.

Another tree of inspiration is a tree of @Brian Van Fleet that I think died recently. But the shape and stature of that tree was stellar. How did it die @Brian Van Fleet ?

Lastly. Tips on over wintering yaupon? Special precautions here in Abq? On average lows are about 20 at night.

I love where this tree is going and would like this to be a long term keeper.

As always, thoughts or criticisms always welcome!

DH
 

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Yaupon Holly requires winter protection from freeze doesn’t it? I thought for sure this would not be an issue. But the more I read the more I’m realizing. I’d love to hear it direct from the horses mouth so to speak. Anyone?
 
I’ve heard they can handle light freezing. Whatever that means. I think they can handle frost at least.

You’ve done well with this I think. Not being afraid to chop it is key.
 
I’ve heard they can handle light freezing. Whatever that means. I think they can handle frost at least.

You’ve done well with this I think. Not being afraid to chop it is key.
I was just reading that they can handle down to 0-10 in the ground so I assume 20 at the most in a pot. I’d love for someone who has one in a Bonsai pot to chime in on their experience.
 
I'v got several large ones collected this past spring that I'll be overwintering in zone 7b for the first time. I'll let them freeze solid a few times to harden off then on to the ground, out of the wind and sun, and covered with leaves for the worst of the winter cold. I suspect they'll be fine.
 
I was just reading that they can handle down to 0-10 in the ground so I assume 20 at the most in a pot. I’d love for someone who has one in a Bonsai pot to chime in on their experience.
The native range doesn’t really extend north of South Carolina, and even then they are coastal. So I wouldn’t get too crazy in assuming they can be frozen solid, because I doubt they ever are in nature. Someone with actual experience would be helpful here.
 
The native range doesn’t really extend north of South Carolina, and even then they are coastal. So I wouldn’t get too crazy in assuming they can be frozen solid, because I doubt they ever are in nature. Someone with actual experience would be helpful here.
Mine froze solid after collection several times this past spring. Again, it's not the act of the soil freezing but the ultimate low temps the roots are subjected to, as well as the conditions the foliage experience when sitting in frozen soil. Site them appropriately and they can freeze.
 
Mine froze solid after collection several times this past spring. Again, it's not the act of the soil freezing but the ultimate low temps the roots are subjected to, as well as the conditions the foliage experience when sitting in frozen soil. Site them appropriately and they can freeze.
Let me add that when the roots are in frozen soil/substrate, they cannot load water (blinding flash of the obvious, huh). Hence the peril is desiccation of the tree tissues above ground. It might not be an issue with the humidity of north Georgia, but it undoubtedly could be a big deal in Albuquerque. IOW, @Hartinez, shade trees from bright sun and shelter them from wind when temps are staying below freezing.
 
Let me add that when the roots are in frozen soil/substrate, they cannot load water (blinding flash of the obvious, huh). Hence the peril is desiccation of the tree tissues above ground. It might not be an issue with the humidity of north Georgia, but it undoubtedly could be a big deal in Albuquerque. IOW, @Hartinez, shade trees from bright sun and shelter them from wind when temps are staying below freezing.

Thanks for the response everyone. I typically only keep species that can handle our dry heat and even drier cold winters. But I love the short and fat look of a great yaupon, so I had to. Plus this one, IMO, has great potential.

My MO come winter, is to place all my trees on the north side of my house all bunched together. I don’t put them directly on the ground, but rather on an 8” high 2x12 on cinder blocks running the length of my house. I cover most of the root surfaces with elm leaf liter and water every 1 to 2 weeks depending on snow fall, which has been dismal last few years. Winters don’t typically take out any of my trees with these precautions.

In regards to this Yaupon, I’m going to place it on the same side of the house but give the tree a more 360 degree protection. Underneath, top etc. but I WILL leave it outside. If it doesn’t make it, than this tree was not meant to be where I live.
 
Let me add that when the roots are in frozen soil/substrate, they cannot load water (blinding flash of the obvious, huh). Hence the peril is desiccation of the tree tissues above ground. It might not be an issue with the humidity of north Georgia, but it undoubtedly could be a big deal in Albuquerque. IOW, @Hartinez, shade trees from bright sun and shelter them from wind when temps are staying below freezing.
It is an issue in N GA... our dew points fall into the single digits F and even sub zero occasionally in January and February. Hence, the importance of siting the tree appropriately. It needs to be out of the wind and sun when the roots are frozen. This should be standard treatment for any potted tree where temps will stay below freezing for more then a few hours.
 
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