Looks great.
Really nice, and so many Ex-Xmas tree experiments don't make it well done. The secret ingredient might be patience![]()
Fantastic video, and excellent work with the tree. Seeing it in video really emphasizes the movement and organization of it. Love the very tall tenjin, as I see most all old spruce with them--if they do no have a jin on top, the foliage will be pointy and not rounded, so I find a spruce without tenjin and a rounded top to be unbelievable.
Where are you based? I hear about a lot of people having issues with this cultivar for bonsai, but I suspect it is because they push them too hard for a dwarf species. In particular, do you do anything special while working the roots on them?
and size. Notice that this isn't one of the tiny picea.Really nice, and so many Ex-Xmas tree experiments don't make it well done. The secret ingredient might be patience![]()
Technically I think it's nursery stockIs this a Yamadori?
you've done well sir. taking an ugly throwaway christmas ornament and transforming it into something that looks like a miniature version of a mountain tree. bravoI'll let things age naturally for the year - then start preserving the wood. I'll watch the wire too and remove as it starts to bite in.
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Is this a Yamadori?
you've done well sir. taking an ugly throwaway christmas ornament and transforming it into something that looks like a miniature version of a mountain tree. bravo
Technically I think it's nursery stock
Great start!
I think the biggest challenge you have in the short term is that you have a fair amount of inverse taper - with the top of the tree looking thicker than the middle section. This may just be due to the angle with which you took the photo. Make sure the tree stays really strong the next couple of years so the live bark gets thick.
Also... don't forget a well-defined apex. You have a long spike of deadwood out the top of your design, so to make the tree believable you would want to show a corresponding apex of live growth that is being pushed by the tree.
I might also consider shortening the first branch on the left, so you emphasize the primary branch on the right a little more and give a little more energy to the design. Just my suggestions! I think you showed the potential of what you can do at Home Depot!!
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Looks great so far! Thanks for sharing
Looks like I lied - I went back and I stared training this tree in 2017 so 7 years![]()
What I was trying to say is - you need to look at how you are styling the tree and ask yourself "does it look natural"? A long spire of deadwood like you are styling means the tree would live in an area where that kind of straight upright growth is normal, so you would want your foliage to mimic the line you are creating with your deadwood. You don't want to style your deadwood one way, and have your foliage mass look like it belongs to a completely different tree. Likewise the balance of the foliage on a leaning tree. When a tree leans, one side of the tree is going to get more light than the other, and the shaded side of the tree should be styled with less foliage than the sunny side of the tree.The apex is a bit on the natural side of things as I tend let things a bit more natural/wild , much like Walter Pall's style.
The years just slip away.
What I was trying to say is - you need to look at how you are styling the tree and ask yourself "does it look natural"? A long spire of deadwood like you are styling means the tree would live in an area where that kind of straight upright growth is normal, so you would want your foliage to mimic the line you are creating with your deadwood. You don't want to style your deadwood one way, and have your foliage mass look like it belongs to a completely different tree. Likewise the balance of the foliage on a leaning tree. When a tree leans, one side of the tree is going to get more light than the other, and the shaded side of the tree should be styled with less foliage than the sunny side of the tree.