Durantha repens, needs help

[bonsai-max]

Hi there,

1o days ago in a supermarket there was a small table with some bonsai, I took a tea tree and a Durantha repens, I know it's ugly but was there for 5€ each one and I can't resist..
The Durantha have a lot o typical errors like opposite branches and the pot is really full of roots.
About the pot, the soil drain very well, so I will wait spring for a good repot in a larger pond pot to improve the thickness of the trunk, but about the branches do you have any suggestion on how to start styling ?
Also the center as a strange scare on it.
Now the plant is in my special nursery, 22 c° and 9 hours of artificial light, looks happy, the leaf have changed to yellowish to green and also I have some new grows and shoots.
I have only Pines, and fruit plants, and don't know anything about this kind plant.
Thank you so much for your help

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Greetings!

Check out this link with basic Durantha repens info.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[bonsai-max]

Check out this link with basic Durantha repens info.

Hi, thank you for you link, I have seen something similar on another website, useful info.
What about the opposite branch ? Should i cut or leave ?
Any idea is appreciated.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Gosh the bark structure on this little tree looks an awful lot like a Chilean Myrtle. Maybe it doesn’t apply, but treat it as if it’s tender to bending, so be careful.

The main challenge to taking on this tree is it’s a little used species. Tha5 could be fun too, as you’ll have to learn all the basics of this tree species… recovery from repots, pruning, timing on pruning, tenderness, resistance to disease, bugs et al

To answer your question.

Leaving a third branch at a junction inevitably leads to thickened at the junction. Not good. My choice is almost always choose the thinner branch, consistent with the internodes, styling and growth prospects down the branchlet.

So one could cut the largest side branch in this case. That would be a safe bet. But the tree will never be all that beautiful. Cutting the smallest will yield the same result. Cutting off the main trunk above the junction is awful… so…

Since this is an experiment, how about this option…. ?

And consider perhaps changing the angle of the trunk upon repot to enhance…



Interesting yes, stylistic, the jury is still out. It would depend upon t(e tree response and the hobbyist’s follow on pruning technique. Worth trying? In my yard, certainly.

At the very least, this option will provide one with a lot of information for future work.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[bonsai-max]

So one could cut the largest side branch in this case. That would be a safe bet. But the tree will never be all that beautiful. Cutting the smallest will yield the same result. Cutting off the main trunk above the junction is awful… so…

That is a good starting point, I hope that I understand your idea, something like this ?

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

It would be delightful if one could cut back further on those lower branches, but don’t see any internodes, so yes.

Not to bend anything at this point. This is a deciduous type tree… rising branches starting from the near the horizontal unless one wants the ancient oak style…which still wouldn’t emulate a pine

This tree is primarily a clip and grow job. Use wires sparingly.

It’s desirable to score the bark slightly around old unhealed wounds and cut paste them to get these to heal fully

Here’s a Chilean Myrtle, using similar technique… in winter storage mode, needs work in spring. See lone wire bending down former apex. Also note wounds healing, pushing off cut paste.
This particular species is not freeze tolerant, but seems to be able to grow profusely once the temperatures hit 40F…



Cheers
DSD sends

 

[bonsai-max]

It would be delightful if one could cut back further on those lower branches, but don’t see any internodes, so yes.

Yes sir, I will change the inclination of the plant at the repot so the second branch will be less vertical.
About the second branch I have no idea if I cut so short there will be new grow or the branch will dead, because the new gems are more forward.
So I will cut like the picture, but I think this is a very vigorous plant, the picture is without inclination on the right.
Could you explain me better the technique to make better the old wounds ?
Thank you

 

[KateM]

Here is the thread from @Clicio
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/duranta-erecta-aurea-golden-dewdrop-bonsai-anyone.47238/
I believe @Carol 83 has one too.
I am not sure if there is a difference between repens and erecta, but if there is they look very much the same...
I have three of them - purple with white margine flowers, white flowers and aurea with golden leaves and pale lilac flowers. They are not currently bosai, but I am thinking about it.
They are pretty tolerant of root reduction and cutback in my experience.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

The angle posted earlier is good.

Note in the thread @KateM posted above in post #4 @Carol 83 shows an optional design that might work.

Also note the double wiring for coverage and support.

Wondering how this tree is doing Carol?

Basically the procedure is to scrape the edges of a wound then cut paste over it. Re-scrape periodically and renew treatment as the cut paste gets pushed off over time.

For sensitive species like azaleas one uses liquid Top Jin first. Wait for it to dry, then apply the cut paste.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Carol 83]

Wondering how the tree is doing Carol?

. It was in such a small pot, I should have put it in a tray of wet sand or something when we went on vacation in the summer. Bless my son's heart, he wasn't always the best waterer. I did find a patio Duranta at a nursery here last spring, which I have never seen before. It bloomed all summer and is currently hanging out inside. Maybe I'll try some cuttings.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Very sad.

The little pots can be an awful challenge for the uninitiated. We have a person in our Study Group that is a four decade mame/shohin practitioner. Last summer we went to her home for a short course on care.

Biggest take home is she uses trays filled with small river pebbles with water in it during the dry Seattle summer. The mame were lodged in the pebbles when going away for 2-3 days. During the time they are home the trees remain in the trays. Mame are watered then, but not as frequently as on the bench. Likely fairly common practice.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[bonsai-max]

It would be delightful if one could cut back further on those lower branches, but don’t see any internodes, so yes.

Question, the season is getting slowly warmer and in a couple of weeks I will start the work.
One question, since i have to repot the plant, I will put ina round pond pot, is better to cut and do the root work at the same time or , repot with the new angle pruning a little and wait until autumn ?
The plants looks really healthy now, a lot of new grows...

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Would only do one major procedure at a time. Your call, major cutback, or repot.

However one could prune to stop the new growth in areas that will be pruned later.

Best
DSD sends

 

[bonsai-max]

Would only do one major procedure at a time. Your call, major cutback, or repot.

Agree, repot is the most urgent, the pictures speak clear the pot is full and the soil not very good.
So I will repot the tree with the new angle, and slowly prune back....

 

[souvik1811]

From my experience with Duranta, they can be very brittle once hard. Even tiny branches could snap easily. Therefore the branches do not lend themselves well to wiring, except if you can catch them while they are tender. They seem to work better with clip-and-grow techniques, and can form nice sharp curves. They can also hold deadwood relatively well and I've heard of specimens with intricately carved deadwood features.