does EPOXY harm the tree?

[zita]

now, if a wound is bleeding strong.....wound paste doesnt do the job.

I just used 5 min Epoxy on some trees and the wounds are sealed, no single drop anymore. I will cut those parts off in summer for propper healing.
But until then, what do you think:

Is it too much of a seal and the wood under the epoxy will do strange things due to lack of oxygen?
will the epoxy itself poison the tree?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Doubt it will have any ill effect. I use epoxy putty to fill hollows with no problems. Gradually callus tissue grows over it.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Epoxy in non-hardened form can be very toxic, as can the hardener be. It depends on the type of epoxy; some are less toxic than others. Once hardened, it should be safe.
Maybe your plant isn't affected by it, maybe it is, only time can tell. On dead wood, it's perfectly safe. On open wounds, it can get into the sap stream and do some weird things, but again, it depends on the plant and the type of epoxy. It has been studied very little though, as it's not often done.
Soft waxes like lanolin or warm beeswax or candle wax can work just as well, and they're easier to remove.

Lack of oxygen shouldn't be a concern - plants have a vascular system with very little oxygen in it. They're not animals that need to keep a high body temperature by burning things.

 

[rockm]

You don’t say what kind of tree it is. If it’s a maple don’t really sweat the bleeding. It will eventually stop and won’t harm the tree all that much. Sap is moving heavily in springtime. Maples can produce a lot is sap and can spare some with little harm. The entire maple syrup industry is based on that fact. Do you know how much sap is required to make a gallon of maple syrup? 40-60 gallons That’s A LOT of sap

If you want to minimize bleeding it helps to do a root prying and then hard top pruning at the same. Root removal slows bleeding down considerably

 

[rockm]

You don’t say what kind of tree it is. If it’s a maple don’t really sweat the bleeding. It will eventually stop and won’t harm the tree all that much. Sap is moving heavily in springtime. Maples can produce a lot is sap and can spare some with little harm. The entire maple syrup industry is based on that fact. Do you know how much sap is required to make a gallon of maple syrup? 40-60 gallons That’s A LOT of sap

If you want to minimize bleeding it helps to do a root prying and then hard top pruning at the same. Root removal slows bleeding down considerably

Root pruning not root prying spell check

 

[River's Edge]

Soft waxes like lanolin or warm beeswax or candle wax can work just as well, and they're easier to remove

Epoxy is usually used to fill cavities and finished to provide a smooth surface for the callus to roll over, providing an aesthetically pleasing repair to an area of Rott, damage or site of large branch removal. Certain types have been used effectively without any apparent harm for decades. I can recommend this product based on experience. I have used it for both deciduous and conifers with no problem.
As with any product the manner in which it is used is important. Filling the cavity up to a certain point and keeping the bonding material away from contacting the cambial tissue is one step I follow. For proper healing one tries to have a slight depression on the perimeter anyhow so this works for both objectives.

now, if a wound is bleeding strong.....wound paste doesnt do the job.

The heavier grey cut paste should be effective if applied quickly and correctly! The best method is as suggested by @rockm . Combine major cuts with some root work. Do the root work first. When both are done just prior to the growing season it is not only more effective from a sap loss point of view but it also is ideal in terms of length of recovery time from the repot and pruning.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Certain types have been used effectively without any apparent harm for decades.

That's exactly why I'm leaning towards "try something else". Epoxy resin can come in a variety of blends and types of chemicals and hardeners. A couple of these hardeners and resins are not regarded plant-safe.
I don't expect people to figure out what kind of epoxy they have on their hands and what the exact composition is. In my chemistry safety courses I always learned to treat the unknown as the most dangerous chemical you can think of until you prove what exactly it is.