Design for trees that have one dominant root

[Cajunrider]

I have encountered trees that have a dominant root that skews the respective tree. An example is the bald cypress pictured below. The dominant root is way too big to be hidden away. How do we work some thing like that into the design of the tree?

 

[0soyoung]

If it cannot be a feature, then put it in back,(I.e., exercise the principle of 'out-of-sight-out-of-mind').

It is probably worth asking how it got to be there and, therefore, how might you go about creating two or more (buttresses). For instance, it looks go me like your problem has originated from a high (now above ground) root. You might root some cuttings (this year) and approach graft them onto the tree (next year) as start. Alternatively, you might make two or three notches around the trunk to ground layer additional roots that can be developed into buttresses.

And then, there is also the question of how submerging the roots as one would do to make knees might affect things. A remarkable thing about rice plants is that they pop roots at water level. The formation of knees and buttresses isn't exactly the same thing, but the circumstances are similar. Things you've seen in the bijous, surely should have given you some ideas.

 

[Gabler]

additional roots that can be developed into buttresses

I was under the impression that was impossible unless the tree is grown for years in a swamp where the roots can run freely.

 

[Gabler]

I would repot the tree on an angle, leaning toward the buttress root.

 

[Cajunrider]

As always there is a natural reason why the roots form in that manner. In this case the tree grew underneath a very big BC. As a result the one big root formed where there was room for the little tree to grow. This is very much the case with bonsai growing in pockets in rocks. There is no way to grow out other buttresses to balance. Aside from standing directly across from the root, there is no way not to notice it. Instead of poorly hiding it, I would like to find a better way.

 

[_#1_]

I'd plant another one with a flat side also right up against this one as close and tightly as possible.

If this is a big one, I'll have the other one around half the size maybe? Like mother daughter?

 

[Cajunrider]

I'd plant another one with a flat side also right up against this one as close and tightly as possible.

If this is a big one, I'll have the other one around half the size maybe? Like mother daughter?

Other things I am hoping for is to dunk the tree and hope for knees to balance out the look. However, there is no way to control the growth of knees.

 

[Michael P]

The root doesn't bother me at all. . .am I the only one?

 

[Tieball]

I see a few possibilities. I’d step back and examine a different imagery. The root itself doesn’t bother me but it does draw my eye toward it…right now anyway as the tree is less finished. I attached a swamp example and your tree.

One possibility, I'd use that low branch near and just above it and begin to grow it out and bend it similar to the swamp photo. It would turn the area into a feature.

If that doesn’t sound possible then I’d just rotate the tree counterclockwise….enough so that root wouldn’t be viewed perfectly flat as a side root. It would prompt the viewer to follow it upward. With a rotation the root would be closer to a forty-five degree angle and be less of a flat visual intrusion.

The area could also be considered for a carving feature that would be very interesting as it’s a natural occurrence of an aged bald Cyprus. There are a lot of bald Cyprus trees with a base rotting area…a carved area for my way of thinking….leaving some smooth wear lines from the water erosion.

Just possibilities.

 

[ShadyStump]

The root doesn't bother me at all. . .am I the only one?

Nope

@Tieball has some good suggestions.
I like the carving idea, but it may actually be too small for that
If you could get even BIGGER, maybe with a very long pot or box that restricts the other roots, but lets that one run a bit. Asymmetric fertilizing maybe?
The other option would be to chop low and take the scale down to a point that root appears more dominant.

You're the bc guy around here. Can you tell us how roots like that develop over time?
Is it in any way similar to how junipers creat the ribbon-like structure, by piling live veins one atop the other? That would be terribly convenient.

 

[rockm]

There is no real "problem" with that flaring root, other than it's a little higher than the main root base and has a slightly different angle of emergence from the trunk. It would help to see what is underneath that flaring root. Does it continue as a solid flare further down? There is no real way to balance it with by growing another flaring root on the other side. Getting such dramatic flare in a container from scratch isn't really do able or practical. You would have to clip the feeder roots on the flare side back and plant it back in the ground for a long while to do that.

You can sink that flare a bit by shifting the angle of the tree in the pot, or you could emphasize that root by exposing more of it down to the level of the other roots--providing the root flare continues down to that level and doesn't break into smaller roots that would have gaps between.

BC grow like this a lot. I have a large one that has pronounced roots flare on one side of the nebari. Hasn't bothered me for 25 years now.

If this one were mine, I'd go with the tree, not try to fight it.

 

[Cajunrider]

There is no real "problem" with that flaring root, other than it's a little higher than the main root base and has a slightly different angle of emergence from the trunk. It would help to see what is underneath that flaring root. Does it continue as a solid flare further down? There is no real way to balance it with by growing another flaring root on the other side. Getting such dramatic flare in a container from scratch isn't really do able or practical. You would have to clip the feeder roots on the flare side back and plant it back in the ground for a long while to do that.

You can sink that flare a bit by shifting the angle of the tree in the pot, or you could emphasize that root by exposing more of it down to the level of the other roots--providing the root flare continues down to that level and doesn't break into smaller roots that would have gaps between.

BC grow like this a lot. I have a large one that has pronounced roots flare on one side of the nebari. Hasn't bothered me for 25 years now.

If this one were mine, I'd go with the tree, not try to fight it.

The more I look at it, the more it appeals to me. That root fought hard among the roots of the big tree that this little tree was under and was definitely the main supply for the little tree since the beginning. I am going to dunk it to encourage knee growth and leave things to providence.
BTW the tree was a victim of the great decapitation too

 

[Tieball]

The more I look at it, the more it appeals to me. That root fought hard among the roots of the big tree that this little tree was under and was definitely the main supply for the little tree since the beginning. I am going to dunk it to encourage knee growth and leave things to providence.
BTW the tree was a victim of the great decapitation too
View attachment 487355

Good choice. And good that you have a direction you like.
I agree with you. When I see it in the photo here that root looks mighty fine! It is a unique feature for you to embrace.

 

[Cajunrider]

Eureka!
The trunk is going to be split and shifted to spread out the lesser side for a more balanced base.
I will post some pictures when the trunk split is done.

 

[Cajunrider]

Eureka!
The trunk is going to be split and shifted to spread out the lesser side for a more balanced base.
I will post some pictures when the trunk split is done.

Trunk split done with my bush knife and a hammer. 1” added to the lesser side for now.

 

[ShadyStump]

Seems a bit risky to me, but it's your tree.
It'll look good if it works.

 

[Cajunrider]

Seems a bit risky to me, but it's your tree.
It'll look good if it works.

I figure I am in a good position to push the boundaries to give information to others. I might not have done it had this been my only BC.

 

[ShadyStump]

I figure I am in a good position to push the boundaries to give information to others. I might not have done it had this been my only BC.

Fair enough.
Are you doing anything to protect those open gaps from the wedges? Or just trust them to fill in naturally as the trunk grows?

 

[Cajunrider]

Fair enough.
Are you doing anything to protect those open gaps from the wedges? Or just trust them to fill in naturally as the trunk grows?

The plan right now is to leave the wedges in for 24 hours then drive them in more for further separation. Then I'll leave the tree alone until late fall when I remove the wedges. I doubt that this tree can fill in such big gaps but I have seen that in nature. There will no protection for the open gaps other than preventing critters to live in there.

 

[ShadyStump]

The plan right now is to leave the wedges in for 24 hours then drive them in more for further separation. Then I'll leave the tree alone until late fall when I remove the wedges. I doubt that this tree can fill in such big gaps but I have seen that in nature. There will no protection for the open gaps other than preventing critters to live in there.

It'll be interesting to see what happens,one way or another.
Thanks for taking us along for the ride.