Deshojo questio

[Badge30]

Recent purchase. Tree is in a 2gallon pot. My plan is to keep it in original pot or in late fall slip into a 4 gallon. My ultimate plan is to air layer in spring. Tree is over 5 ft tall. Any suggestions for airlayer placement. I think I could get three trees out of this one.

 

[Ininaatigoons]

I wouldn't even slip pot not in fall anyways. If you give roots the free room in a pot they'll start growing fast and not lignify by the winter.
I see at least 3 trees. Then when you harvest the air layers you'll need to trim back a bit. Boom now you got cuttings.

 

[Badge30]

Thanks for your thoughts. I appreciate it.

 

[leatherback]

Repot in spring. Then also do proper rootwork. Consider making a large flat box, or buying something in the USA sold as anderson flats. Then allow to grow unrestircted for another year or 2. That will give you a very nice solid nebari & fat base. At that time look at airlayers.

What you could do now is wire the higher part of the trunk and/or some of the side-branches for future airlayers, so there is movement. Straight layers are not usually worth the effort. Also, remove one of each opposing branchpair, alternating / circling the trunk so you have branches in multiple directions.

 

[Badge30]

Repot in spring. Then also do proper rootwork. Consider making a large flat box, or buying something in the USA sold as anderson flats. Then allow to grow unrestircted for another year or 2. That will give you a very nice solid nebari & fat base. At that time look at airlayers.

What you could do now is wire the higher part of the trunk and/or some of the side-branches for future airlayers, so there is movement. Straight layers are not usually worth the effort. Also, remove one of each opposing branchpair, alternating / circling the trunk so you have branches in multiple directions.

Thanks Jelle. I will.
FYI: Love your videos.
Ron

 

[MrBonsai19]

Repot in spring. Then also do proper rootwork. Consider making a large flat box, or buying something in the USA sold as anderson flats. Then allow to grow unrestircted for another year or 2. That will give you a very nice solid nebari & fat base. At that time look at airlayers.

What you could do now is wire the higher part of the trunk and/or some of the side-branches for future airlayers, so there is movement. Straight layers are not usually worth the effort. Also, remove one of each opposing branchpair, alternating / circling the trunk so you have branches in multiple directions.

Just curious why slow down the tree with proper rootwork?

I like the idea of taking advantage of the root stock to develop the structure of your future tree a bit. No need to air layer it right away as the trunk will thicken faster on the rootstock. There are a lot of ways you can go about this depending on if you want to develop one single air layer or multiple air layers for the future. Jelle has in mind to develop mutliple air layers which I think is a good idea. The more air layers you want to develop the slower it will take you to get them all far enough along to merit air layering them.

If you want to go as fast as possible you would take advantage as much as you can of the thickness you already have near the base. You can select a branch somewhere above the graft union that you think would serve as a good second section of trunk. Keep that and let it grow a bit but not too much. Put some movement in it if you want that. And keep the leader at the very top of the tree. Remove everything else. Repot it in spring makes sense to me but I am not sure why you would reduce the roots or shape them unless you really wanted the root stock to become a bonsai as well. Probably I am missing something but for me I would just change the soil to something fast draining. 60% aggregate /40% organic or even more aggregate if you think you can stay on top of watering it, but not remove any roots just keep everything or as much as possible to preserve the momentum.

 

[Badge30]

Just curious why slow down the tree with proper rootwork?

I like the idea of taking advantage of the root stock to develop the structure of your future tree a bit. No need to air layer it right away as the trunk will thicken faster on the rootstock. There are a lot of ways you can go about this depending on if you want to develop one single air layer or multiple air layers for the future. Jelle has in mind to develop mutliple air layers which I think is a good idea. The more air layers you want to develop the slower it will take you to get them all far enough along to merit air layering them.

If you want to go as fast as possible you would take advantage as much as you can of the thickness you already have near the base. You can select a branch somewhere above the graft union that you think would serve as a good second section of trunk. Keep that and let it grow a bit but not too much. Put some movement in it if you want that. And keep the leader at the very top of the tree. Remove everything else. Repot it in spring makes sense to me but I am not sure why you would reduce the roots or shape them unless you really wanted the root stock to become a bonsai as well. Probably I am missing something but for me I would just change the soil to something fast draining. 60% aggregate /40% organic or even more aggregate if you think you can stay on top of watering it, but not remove any roots just keep everything or as much as possible to preserve the momentum.

View attachment 610021

W

Just curious why slow down the tree with proper rootwork?

I like the idea of taking advantage of the root stock to develop the structure of your future tree a bit. No need to air layer it right away as the trunk will thicken faster on the rootstock. There are a lot of ways you can go about this depending on if you want to develop one single air layer or multiple air layers for the future. Jelle has in mind to develop mutliple air layers which I think is a good idea. The more air layers you want to develop the slower it will take you to get them all far enough along to merit air layering them.

If you want to go as fast as possible you would take advantage as much as you can of the thickness you already have near the base. You can select a branch somewhere above the graft union that you think would serve as a good second section of trunk. Keep that and let it grow a bit but not too much. Put some movement in it if you want that. And keep the leader at the very top of the tree. Remove everything else. Repot it in spring makes sense to me but I am not sure why you would reduce the roots or shape them unless you really wanted the root stock to become a bonsai as well. Probably I am missing something but for me I would just change the soil to something fast draining. 60% aggregate /40% organic or even more aggregate if you think you can stay on top of watering it, but not remove any roots just keep everything or as much as possible to preserve the momentum.

View attachment 610021

wow interesting idea. A lot to think about. Thank you.

Rob

 

[leatherback]

Just curious why slow down the tree with proper rootwork?

Building a good rootspread takes time. If you start with your plants and you ensure spreading roots early on, it helps develop the rootcollar. If you do not do proper rootwork early on, you get entangled ropots, very geavy roots or one-sided nebari which are hard to fix later on.

the graft union

Hm.. you seem to assume there to be a graft. I did not see any mention of this being grafted. I assumed this deshojo would be cutting-grown. If it is grafted it is up to the OP to decide whether the current base will be developed too (maybe getting a low original stock sprout to grow). In that case, still the premise of rootwork holds.

 

[MrBonsai19]

Yes I was assuming graft just based on this image… it looked like there was a graft to me but admittedly it is hard to see for sure

 

[Badge30]

Yes I was assuming graft just based on this image… it looked like there was a graft to me but admittedly it is hard to see for sure

Yes it is grafted. Sorry for the poor photo. The graft is a really good one.