Damaged maple

[Gori]

This (I think, Japanese) maple started from seeds last year. It started growing intensively this February but then I mistakenly applied non-diluted hydrogen peroxide to the leaves and they started to die. The leaves just dried out but some new stems still look green and fresh. Then I found a few small leaf "starters" in a few places. They looked fresh and I hoped the plant will recover. However there is no progress for about a week and those new leaves now look slightly flaccid to me. There are also a few green buds on the trunk with no progress for a week.

Any advice will be appreciated. I should have asked this at least a week ago.

From the watering perspective I water it moderately comparing to other similar plants (assuming it does not have enough leaves to evaporate the water). Also I assume since the leaves/roots balance is in favor of roots so there is no harm in keeping it on direct sun?

 

[0soyoung]

The good news is that just about every species and variety of maple is capable of producing at least two flushes. What you see now is quite normal. All buds that are green will eventually produce leaves if not a new shoot - just be patient. Leaves normally emerge sorta flaccid, but they will 'unfold' and 'harden' in a few weeks time. The new soft stems are a good barometer for watering as they will droop like cooked spaghetti when in need of water. Try not to wait very long before watering when this happens. Done promptly, the stems and leaves will regain turgidity within an hour or two with no harm done. Wait a bit longer, it will recover similarly but the leaves will have permanent damage. Growing tips may turn black and die, but the effect on the tree is basically the same as having pruned that desiccated tip. It pays to get attuned to this as the flush is occurring because it is more subtle when the new growth has hardened.

Keeping it in full sun should be okay, but many Japanese maple varieties cannot cope with it. The usual reaction is that the leaves will redden, though some varieties turn yellow, then brown sun-burn spots appear. Obviously, the remedy is to move it to some shade - morning sun with afternoon shade is the best situation. While I will spare you from a diatribe on why, I will note to you that the best fall colors can be produced by keeping the tree in part shade until late summer/early fall at which time you pop them into more, if not full sun. Letting leaves emerge in full sun affects them being as sun adapted as possible.

 

[Gori]

The good news is that just about every species and variety of maple is capable of producing at least two flushes. What you see now is quite normal. All buds that are green will eventually produce leaves if not a new shoot - just be patient.

That sounds great!

Leaves normally emerge sorta flaccid, but they will 'unfold' and 'harden' in a few weeks time.

My worry here is they looked better to me a week ago, at least brighter, but due to small difference I may be wrong. Also the plant has more exposure to sun recently.

Keeping it in full sun should be okay, but many Japanese maple varieties cannot cope with it. The usual reaction is that the leaves will redden, though some varieties turn yellow, then brown sun-burn spots appear. Obviously, the remedy is to move it to some shade - morning sun with afternoon shade is the best situation.

Luckily, this is exactly my scenario so I should be good here

While I will spare you from a diatribe on why, I will note to you that the best fall colors can be produced by keeping the tree in part shade until late summer/early fall at which time you pop them into more, if not full sun. Letting leaves emerge in full sun affects them being as sun adapted as possible.

This is definitely good to know and will follow this starting this late summer. I don't have convenient "full" sun place, but I do have an option to extend the sun exposure time.
Thank you for your feedback!

 

[sorce]

Why was it peroxided?

Looks like that top joint is dead.

If it was hit for what seems like scale and mites, they seem still present.

Sorce

 

[Gori]

Tips of some leaves became black which was beginning of this stoty. Since I had mites treated succesfully last summer in different plants with HP and I believe HP has some potential, I decided to start with it. Unfortunately I forgot that 3% may be too strong for some species and especially for young leaves.
Those few fesh leaves look hairy now and are getting darkish. The green buds and stems are also getting darker. There is a number of sleeping buds that look healthy.
Is there a good remedy I can find in Home Depot that would cover as many potential issues in this situation?