Sundra
Seed
Is it possible to cut wedges out of the trunk of a portulacaria afra and then bend it to shape? I know you cannot fuse these plants together which probably means a negative answer regarding wedge cutting and bending, thanks.
Cutting wedges in a Portulacaria trunk and bending it?
- Thread starter Sundra
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leatherback
The Treedeemer
never seen it done. And to be honest.. rarely see this work on any tree.
Why would you want to? What sort of plant are you working with that you need extreme measures like this?
Why would you want to? What sort of plant are you working with that you need extreme measures like this?
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
I have never tried the wedge method on a succulent, so I can't say whether it would work or not. However because portulacaria is a succulent, they are pretty bendable - including extreme bending as long as you introduce it over time (too much too soon and the branch/trunk tends to snap). Your biggest issue is getting them to hold whatever styling you introduce. Far better to just use the clip and grow method - pruning the trunk where you want a sharp bend and growing out a new leader.
Ruddigger
Omono
I have not tried a wedge cut, but I have removed half of a trunk and bent it that way. Jade tends to want to tear open at each node when you bend thick sections.
The cuts will callous over and never fuse. It is possible to bend thicker port trunks. I wouldn’t recommend it unless you are extremely familiar with these trees. I have cut back water for several days, even weeks. The branches and trunk become soft and flexible, using heavy wire or guy wires you will be able to bend the branches into a close enough position. Over time slowly increase the bends. Doubling thinner wire, and using guy wires would be the safest bet and it will take a long time. But, its far less of a risk than barely killing your tree to achieve a design.
Dogestoevsky
Mame
I think the best looking bends I’ve achieved on portulacaria or crassula have been with clip and grow. But I still wire them when the opportunity presents itself — especially wiring fat desiccated cuttings before they are rooted. That gives you a chance to set the structure of the trunk.
For mature plants, I’ve found holding the water for about a week or more is helpful when styling. In May when the succulents go outside, (I’m in Wisconsin) I will desiccate the ones that I plan to work, pinch all the leaves off, and wire / style the whole tree. Then they go outside with minimal water until new leaves begin to emerge, and they stay wired for the whole season. Usually I have to repeat this treatment the following year for Crassula to hold shape… which is kind of annoying if you ask me.
For mature plants, I’ve found holding the water for about a week or more is helpful when styling. In May when the succulents go outside, (I’m in Wisconsin) I will desiccate the ones that I plan to work, pinch all the leaves off, and wire / style the whole tree. Then they go outside with minimal water until new leaves begin to emerge, and they stay wired for the whole season. Usually I have to repeat this treatment the following year for Crassula to hold shape… which is kind of annoying if you ask me.
This would be my expectation as well: the tissue at the cut will die and callous and will never fuse at the join.
P. Afra props stupidly easy though and if one really wanted they could test and prove this out.
