Crab apple trunk chop

[remist17]

I came across a early crab apple sale at Lowes. I found a 5 foot tree for only 12 dollars. I was thinking it would be worth chopping it or trying to get a air layer off the tree. If Ichop the tree when is the best time to cut a 5 foot tree down to about 12"?

Or should I do this chop in sections?

No graft that I can see.

 

[berobinson82]

May I ask how thick the base of the tree is?

 

[Poink88]

Spring (around now or soon in your area I hope) is ideal for the chop. The cuttings I stuck on soil all rooted so I think they take easily.

Mine "bled" sap for days (not sure if it is due to timing) but better to apply cut paste.

Good luck!

 

[Stan Kengai]

If you have a nice low branch, twig or bud that can become the new leader, the best time to chop is during bud swell/leaf emergence. Yes, this isn't the normal advice, and it doesn't make the best use of the tree's resources. But because the chop is made during active growth, there is a chance of the chop healing over, as crabs are rather slow to heal when cut during dormancy. If you don't have a potential new leader, best to do it near the end of dormancy, which is a better use of the tree's resources.

As far as layering goes, frankly, crab cuttings generally grow so well that layering isn't worth the time, unless you have some special material. Some crab varieties will root from 1"+ cuttings, especially if the parent plant is young. Best time to take crab cuttings is during leaf emergence. See how nicely that fits together

 

[rockm]

You could probably start working on the tree in a week or so, as long as you have a place to put it when we get late frosts in april.

To avoid bleeding at the trunk chop, chop the roots first, then do the trunk chop a half hour or so later-make sure the roots don't dry out in between though. Working the roots first cuts down on the sap flowing from the trunk chop. Don't really worry about the sap. Tree isn't going to "bleed to death." Apply cut sealer if you want.

Also, you're going to have to prepare for a lot of bugs come spring and summer. Apples draw them like magnets.

 

[Poink88]

Also, you're going to have to prepare for a lot of bugs come spring and summer. Apples draw them like magnets.

So true. crabs and quince are the worst (or best?) bug magnets in my yard. I tried the gentle remedies but after a while I broke down and used systemics. No more problem.

 

[remist17]

Thanks all
The trunk is a little over 2 inches and is the reason why I was not certain to chop or layer.

Since the tree is 5 feet tall I could layer off the top, and then middle next year, and then use the final orignal trunk making three trees from one.

I never had luck with cuttings and layers. I think since i never did this before I really was not doing things correctly.

Correct me if I am incorrect:
Cuttings can be lastyear growth cut before leaf pop
Or cuttings this years growth with leaf growth

I use root tone hormone and cut the bark and green layer from the cuttings up about 1/2"

Layers I did after leaf pop and hardened off, cut the bark and green off the branch dusted it with roottone hormone and put long strand moss with a bag around it.

<<<< Also is it worth the time to trunk chop a bradford pear? Also at lowes for 12 dollars 4 foot tall 2" trunk

 

[Stan Kengai]

Also, you're going to have to prepare for a lot of bugs come spring and summer. Apples draw them like magnets.

Good point about bugs. I forgot how bad they can be. I use Sevin (systemic insecticide) in my fert. tea bags and don't have much trouble with bugs. Leaf fungus/mold is also a problem here (not sure about it where you are), so try to keep the leaves as dry as possible.

 

[Poink88]

Thanks all
The trunk is a little over 2 inches and is the reason why I was not certain to chop or layer.

Since the tree is 5 feet tall I could layer off the top, and then middle next year, and then use the final orignal trunk making three trees from one.

I never had luck with cuttings and layers. I think since i never did this before I really was not doing things correctly.

Correct me if I am incorrect:
Cuttings can be lastyear growth cut before leaf pop
Or cuttings this years growth with leaf growth

I use root tone hormone and cut the bark and green layer from the cuttings up about 1/2"

Layers I did after leaf pop and hardened off, cut the bark and green off the branch dusted it with roottone hormone and put long strand moss with a bag around it.

I took old branch cuttings and they took.

Re: layering...are you sure you are removing the entire bark and removing the cambium? You should reach sapwood then scrape the cambium (or wipe it with alcohol to kill this thin layer). Otherwise, it will just re-grow and re-unite the top and lower bark that you ring barked.

Good luck!

 

[remist17]

I most likely did not cut deep enough since it just grew over on the layer.

I took some old growth cuttings earlier this month and put them in a grow container with a clear lid and stuck them uneder my indoor light setup. I see them starting to push green buds. I really hope they take even if they are just twgs.