Hello my name is joe and I recently repotted one of my little cork bark black pines . Since then it has lost most of its green color in the needles . I made sure to do everything right and be as gentle as possible also I used a good mix of Akadama lava and pumice .every year after dormant season I. Early spring I take the trees from my unheated garage do the work that needs to be done then I place them outside for spring . Will this tree recover? or what did I do wrong ?
Cork bark black pine looking dull
- Thread starter Jo53ph
- Start date
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Pix please.
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
Did you see white tips on any/some of the roots when you started repotting? Were the candles 'pushing' at all?
What was it planted in prior to repotting?
Unless you see these signs of life, it may have no capacity to recover from root damage.
Did you bare root it?What was it planted in prior to repotting?
My experience with thunbergii in nursery soil/dirt is that full bare rooting has a very high probability of killing them. I must half bare root (hbr) them; that is only clean out the soil from one side of the trunk. Many people only do hbr repotting, regardless of the substrate.
No white tips on the roots as I can remember also it was planted in Akadama since it was grafted in 2015 and I only removed maybe 50-60 percent of the old soil because I wanted to be gentle it was only in a little 3/12 or 4 inch green pot and the roots was very compacted atleast I thought they was it always drained water though
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Well .....
I have absolutely nothing except plugging in one more entry with both....
Unheated Garage
and
Poor health.
No less than 50 now.
I have no entries of poor health post winter with other treatments.
So, beat around the bush we may, I recommend focusing the thoughts on the actual problem.
Sorce
I have absolutely nothing except plugging in one more entry with both....
Unheated Garage
and
Poor health.
No less than 50 now.
I have no entries of poor health post winter with other treatments.
So, beat around the bush we may, I recommend focusing the thoughts on the actual problem.
Sorce
Well all my other trees seems to be doing fine as well as a few other cork barks .all are always protected in a unheated garage every winter . As far as the health of the tree it was very healthy last year . Other then it just being a smaller size tree idk maybe I should of repotted it later on .
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Sorry, doesn’t look good. They’re fickle for sure. I’m struggling with one myself.
MrWunderful
Omono
Pines dont need to be repotted every year either FYI. Most go 2-5 years unless relatively old and refined.
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
How dry was the soil when repotted? Frequently overwintering in buildings one does not keep the moisture levels up. The combination of early repot and dry condition could result in the condition. I would mist the trees three times a day . Although it may be too late by the time the needles show that much discolouration.
Paradox
Marine Bonsologist
yea looks like it got dried out and not watered often enough
Dont listen to the comment that this was because it was kept in a garage. That is blatently false.
I have kept all my trees, including my pines in a garage with no ill effects at all as long as I kept them watered.
I would tend to believe Brian that these are a bit fickle and may be overly sensative to repotting compared to normal JBP.
Brian is one of the JBP experts here on the forum.
.
Dont listen to the comment that this was because it was kept in a garage. That is blatently false.
I have kept all my trees, including my pines in a garage with no ill effects at all as long as I kept them watered.
I would tend to believe Brian that these are a bit fickle and may be overly sensative to repotting compared to normal JBP.
Brian is one of the JBP experts here on the forum.
.
Last edited:
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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@Jo53ph
I'm afraid to say it, but that rapid color change looks fatal. Sorry to have to confirm you fear.
You are in Toledo area, your summers are relatively cool compared to the southeast, south and southwestern USA. I'm in the Chicago-Milwaukee area, with similar climate to yours. I found through this exact experience, that for me in my climate, it is best if I do not repot in spring. Cork bark JBP need a string of hot weather to "wake up" in spring. A couple weeks where daytime highs get into the upper 70's or low 80's F, which in my area sometimes does not happen until middle of June. I have learned that repotting in middle or late July through to about August 15 to have a higher survival rate, than repotting in "spring", because I never know when the trees will wake up. If I get a lot of east wind, the cold Lake Michigan water keeps me cool much later into the the spring than most people. I have had springs so cool from Lake Effect that my redbud would still be in bloom toward the middle or end of June.
So I let new growth, candles extend and leaf out, before repotting. July 15 to Aug 15 seems the best window. Usually Aug 1 to Aug 15. Note this is advise for fellow northerners, you all in Atlanta, stick to your spring repotting.
Also, these damn cork barks are fragile. If I know I am going to repot, I do no work on the tree for 6 months beforehand, and no work on the tree for 12 months afterwards.
Over the last 40 years, I have always had at least one cork bark JBP. The one that survived the longest for me lasted 18 years before I got too enthusiastic and worked it to death. At one time I had 15 cork barks, of 12 different varieties. Due to their fragility, and my slow learning curve I currently am down to just 4. This attrition is over a 10 year period, but I morn the passing of each.
I'm afraid to say it, but that rapid color change looks fatal. Sorry to have to confirm you fear.
You are in Toledo area, your summers are relatively cool compared to the southeast, south and southwestern USA. I'm in the Chicago-Milwaukee area, with similar climate to yours. I found through this exact experience, that for me in my climate, it is best if I do not repot in spring. Cork bark JBP need a string of hot weather to "wake up" in spring. A couple weeks where daytime highs get into the upper 70's or low 80's F, which in my area sometimes does not happen until middle of June. I have learned that repotting in middle or late July through to about August 15 to have a higher survival rate, than repotting in "spring", because I never know when the trees will wake up. If I get a lot of east wind, the cold Lake Michigan water keeps me cool much later into the the spring than most people. I have had springs so cool from Lake Effect that my redbud would still be in bloom toward the middle or end of June.
So I let new growth, candles extend and leaf out, before repotting. July 15 to Aug 15 seems the best window. Usually Aug 1 to Aug 15. Note this is advise for fellow northerners, you all in Atlanta, stick to your spring repotting.
Also, these damn cork barks are fragile. If I know I am going to repot, I do no work on the tree for 6 months beforehand, and no work on the tree for 12 months afterwards.
Over the last 40 years, I have always had at least one cork bark JBP. The one that survived the longest for me lasted 18 years before I got too enthusiastic and worked it to death. At one time I had 15 cork barks, of 12 different varieties. Due to their fragility, and my slow learning curve I currently am down to just 4. This attrition is over a 10 year period, but I morn the passing of each.
Wow well I definitely appreciate the info I will be take inf to it in the future. They are hard to come by that are grafted well . So if you know anyone that has a Shohin size one I am in the market for one and also a nice Shohin trident maple ..
