Coral Bark JM design suggestions

[Haidr]

Hi all, I’m excited to get a coral bark JM today and wanted to ask for design suggestions, I would like to develop the tree shohin style. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks.

 

[Shibui]

You've specified the size as Shohin.
The trunk is clearly gently curved which suggests informal upright or natural style. The trunk is relatively young so could easily be chopped and grown again to develop any other bonsai style.
What else is there to suggest?

 

[Haidr]

Hi Shibui, thanks for your response. I wanted to know where to do the chop? I have two locations for trunk chop in mind, which one do you reckon is better? Also, what is a good time for trunk chop and repotting this one in Melbourne?

 

[Shibui]

Much depends on your vision for the future. How much trunk taper? Ultimate height? Trunk thickness? Development timeline?
I prefer to see bonsai with good trunk taper. That usually means a low initial trunk chop followed but successive grow and chop cycles to build good taper and trunk shape. An initial chop must be low enough to allow for regrowth to build the apex. Many beginners figure chopping at finished height is adequate, failing to allow for the new growth to build the ramification of the new apex.
No scale in the photos so hard to work out if the proposed chops are at 5cm or 25 cm above soil level.

The chops you've specified give some taper in the upper trunk but nothing for the lower trunk.

Soon after leaf drop is a good time to chop maples to avoid excessive 'bleeding'

I still prefer to repot in the month before leaves are likely to open so August/September. If you root prune you can also chop at the same time because root pruning will stop any bleeding. Chop closer to growing season may be safer because the tree will begin healing sooner.

Repotting to find, assess and begin to sort roots for good nebari is a good starting point. Good style and design usually depends on the roots.

 

[Haidr]

I understand the theory behind the chop and trunk taper now. I think chop at the area in the picture attached (last picture, 10cm above the soil) would be good to allow for regrowth to build the apex. I did a trunk chop on two other JM I have a week ago and it seems they survived the chop and are okay for now. (Foliage had powder mildew for both).
**Just confirming trunk chop
After the all the leaves fall in a couple of weeks would be fine for this coral bark? I’ll seal the chop site with cut putty. Attached pictures of the other trunk chops I did a week ago

 

[dbonsaiw]

I typically chop in late winter/early spring when the tree is waking up or, alternatively, in the summer when tree is in active growth.

The suggestions for your chops are fine, but you will need to consider how you add taper to the are you are leaving (assuming you want more taper in that area).

Some food for thought - you could just let the tree grow to get more thickness in the trunk. You could also chop the main trunk to the lowest branch and build from there and pursue more of a cut and grow method.

 

[Haidr]

I typically chop in late winter/early spring when the tree is waking up or, alternatively, in the summer when tree is in active growth.

The suggestions for your chops are fine, but you will need to consider how you add taper to the are you are leaving (assuming you want more taper in that area).

Some food for thought - you could just let the tree grow to get more thickness in the trunk. You could also chop the main trunk to the lowest branch and build from there and pursue more of a cut and grow method.

Thanks for your advice mate. I’m planning to chop where marked. Wire the new leader branch and let it grow. You are right maybe won’t be able to add much taper but I’m happy with the shape of the tree beneath the planned chop area. 4 nodes a a few good branches that can be grown I reckon
If I let it grow doing a chop later on would leave a nastier wound + delay the possibility of lower branche development I think, cutting to the lowest branch is also going to leave a nasty wound right at the bottom.

 

[Shibui]

After the all the leaves fall in a couple of weeks would be fine for this coral bark? I’ll seal the chop site with cut putty

We can chop pretty much all year round. I'm starting my winter pruning as the leaves drop so no reason you can't do that tree.
The only real reason for waiting for the leaves to drop is it is much easier to see the branch structure and see where you are cutting.

I understand the theory behind the chop and trunk taper now. I think chop at the area in the picture attached (last picture, 10cm above the soil) would be good to allow for regrowth to build the apex.

If you are happy with the height and understand allowing for growth after chop then go ahead with that chop.

 

[Haidr]

Copy that Shibui. Thanks mate.