collecting trees after leafing out

Joe Dupre'

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One of the main rules of collecting deciduous trees: Collect in late winter/early spring before trees leaf out. But, why? What mechanism, chemical process or ??? changes after the leaves come out? I've never seen an explanation for this.
 
The leaves can dessicate because a reduced root system cannot supply water fast enough. I found that to be the case once when I reduced the roots of my J maple too much, just a little too late. I had to really baby the tree for a few weeks to get it strong.
 
The leaves can dessicate because a reduced root system cannot supply water fast enough. I found that to be the case once when I reduced the roots of my J maple too much, just a little too late. I had to really baby the tree for a few weeks to get it strong.
Very true..........but .....why. What goes on inside the plant to cause that to happen. If you remove all the leaves, wouldn't that solve the desiccation problem? Minimal roots don't seem to hurt a tree that's just about to come out of dormancy.
 
Very true..........but .....why. What goes on inside the plant to cause that to happen. If you remove all the leaves, wouldn't that solve the desiccation problem? Minimal roots don't seem to hurt a tree that's just about to come out of dormancy.

I assume damaged roots don't move enough water. For some broadleaf evergreen trees (e.g. coast live oak) the recommendation is to completely defoliate after collection. I've found that works really well. I think it's all about managing water loss.
 
Very true..........but .....why. What goes on inside the plant to cause that to happen. If you remove all the leaves, wouldn't that solve the desiccation problem? Minimal roots don't seem to hurt a tree that's just about to come out of dormancy.
Thinking about it from the nursery perspective, it's energy, the roots store energy after leaf fall and that stored energy gets pushed into the top buds first as it builds energy it pushes more bud's after they leaf out they are in the middle of their heavy energy balance cycle where the tree puts itself in a deficit to produce all the new leaves and needs to get it's energy back, we know once the leaves harden then the plant is finally putting energy in storage.

If you collect after the tree has leafed out the tree is relying on water transport to keep the leaves expanded and in the photosynthetic process, when there is too much surface area and not enough root to make up for the water loss the tree dries out.

Another note, most collected deciduous get a large cut back so the plant can use it's stored energy more effectively after root reduction the push entering spring is the point where the most sap is being pushed into bud's and is therefore the best time to have a tree reduced to less roots and less area needing that energy..

I hope my explanation makes sense that's basically what we were taught in the nursery, understanding that "energy" is a mix of water and sap reserves but is definitely the easiest way to put it when explaining to customers
 
Thinking about it from the nursery perspective, it's energy, the roots store energy after leaf fall and that stored energy gets pushed into the top buds first as it builds energy it pushes more bud's after they leaf out they are in the middle of their heavy energy balance cycle where the tree puts itself in a deficit to produce all the new leaves and needs to get it's energy back, we know once the leaves harden then the plant is finally putting energy in storage.

I've seen this 'stored energy' argument used plenty but never actually seen any real evidence. It's pretty obvious to anyone who has defoliated a tree or dehydrated a tree so the leaves all drop off that trees almost always have enough stores to recover. Even trees defoliated soon after leaf out will quickly send out a second burst of growth. I've had trees hit by late frost that killed all the emerging leaves but new leaves emerged soon after with no long term ill effect.
In nature, a hurricane or hailstorm can strip all the leaves and even branches off trees but they will usually recover.
Many fire resistant species can have the canopy scorched, sometimes even smaller branches burned off and can still recover. Lots of shrubs down here get burned to the ground and still grow back from buds in the base of the trunk or from the roots. Trees and shrubs get browsed by animals all the time. Sometimes completely defoliated, occasionally defoliated over and over but most still recover.
I guess its something that has developed to ensure that plants can recover from all sorts of natural events.
I'm sure that defoliation does take something from the tree. Whether that's 'energy' storage and distribution, I'm not sure. The point here being that most plants have enough stores/energy/ resilience to recover from occasional defoliation.

Back to collecting after leaf opening.
I have rarely collected deciduous trees after leaves are open but I have done some trials on root pruning trident maples later in Spring.
Trees with leaves left on soon turn brown and drop the leaves. I assume that's the tree trying to balance water availability (reduced by root removal) with transpiration (water evaporating from leaves). More than 90% of those trees produced new leaves after a few weeks.
I've seen clips of Japanese growers repotting maples with leaves. Those guys just defoliated the trees when root pruning at that stage so I tried that too. Tridents defoliated and root pruned recovered quicker than those with leaves left on. No losses, though the trial trees were all young, vigorous plants.

One of the main rules of collecting deciduous trees: Collect in late winter/early spring before trees leaf out. But, why? What mechanism, chemical process or ??? changes after the leaves come out? I've never seen an explanation for this.
I have a closely related question that's bugged me for years.
Why is it possible, even preferable, to root prune tropicals in summer, in full leaf?
We've found that Australian natives fit in this category. many of our best growers repot Aussie native plants all year round. Years ago there was a school of thought that Aussie natives have regular shorter 'dormant' periods throughout the year and we needed to coincide repotting with one of these rest times but I've now done enough to know that I can safely root prune most Aussie natives while they are actively growing.
This goes against all we've been told by our older bonsai teachers but it still works. Why?

For a while, one of the UK collectors was promoting Summer collection as better than the usually accepted Winter/Spring and apparently having good success. How does Summer root reduction of deciduous trees fit into this debate?
 
I've seen this 'stored energy' argument used plenty but never actually seen any real evidence. It's pretty obvious to anyone who has defoliated a tree or dehydrated a tree so the leaves all drop off that trees almost always have enough stores to recover. Even trees defoliated soon after leaf out will quickly send out a second burst of growth. I've had trees hit by late frost that killed all the emerging leaves but new leaves emerged soon after with no long term ill effect.
In nature, a hurricane or hailstorm can strip all the leaves and even branches off trees but they will usually recover.
Many fire resistant species can have the canopy scorched, sometimes even smaller branches burned off and can still recover. Lots of shrubs down here get burned to the ground and still grow back from buds in the base of the trunk or from the roots. Trees and shrubs get browsed by animals all the time. Sometimes completely defoliated, occasionally defoliated over and over but most still recover.
I guess its something that has developed to ensure that plants can recover from all sorts of natural events.
I'm sure that defoliation does take something from the tree. Whether that's 'energy' storage and distribution, I'm not sure. The point here being that most plants have enough stores/energy/ resilience to recover from occasional defoliation.

Back to collecting after leaf opening.
I have rarely collected deciduous trees after leaves are open but I have done some trials on root pruning trident maples later in Spring.
Trees with leaves left on soon turn brown and drop the leaves. I assume that's the tree trying to balance water availability (reduced by root removal) with transpiration (water evaporating from leaves). More than 90% of those trees produced new leaves after a few weeks.
I've seen clips of Japanese growers repotting maples with leaves. Those guys just defoliated the trees when root pruning at that stage so I tried that too. Tridents defoliated and root pruned recovered quicker than those with leaves left on. No losses, though the trial trees were all young, vigorous plants.


I have a closely related question that's bugged me for years.
Why is it possible, even preferable, to root prune tropicals in summer, in full leaf?
We've found that Australian natives fit in this category. many of our best growers repot Aussie native plants all year round. Years ago there was a school of thought that Aussie natives have regular shorter 'dormant' periods throughout the year and we needed to coincide repotting with one of these rest times but I've now done enough to know that I can safely root prune most Aussie natives while they are actively growing.
This goes against all we've been told by our older bonsai teachers but it still works. Why?

For a while, one of the UK collectors was promoting Summer collection as better than the usually accepted Winter/Spring and apparently having good success. How does Summer root reduction of deciduous trees fit into this debate?
It's more of an analogy then a science, trees are like bloons filled with water, energy is an easy way to explain at a surface level.

Energy is the sap reserves saved throughout the tree, roots ect as well as water and the chemicals required for success. Many trees have developed evolutionary traits letting them recover easily.

Recovering from defoliation/grazing and fires are all great evolutionary pressures, we can compare different strategies starting with ancient trees that didn't deal with grazing for a long time but did deal with fire - conifers (generalized yes there's exceptions) they generally didn't have the pressure of grazing or defoliation until much later due to this most don't handle defoliation to this day.

As deciduous and animals started showing up on land the conifers where pushed into colder specialization developing a hearty sap to keep from frost damage.

Other examples are deciduous trees with high water mobility, they mainly grow in wet environments and don't rely so heavily on saps, they generally handle insult better as they have ready access to one of the elements required for energy recovery, water. These handle late collection and defoliation well (elms BC many maples)

Alternatively a high water mobility tree evolved for the hot temperate environments here the quaking Aspen has several adaptations well suited to regular insult, they primarily focus on underground storage and growth in the summer willing to drop their leaves to save more water while having high photosynthetic ability in their barks allowing for easy recovery (although they'll happily let a tree die to restart with suckers)

The "energy" explanation isn't perfect and is better suited to explaining things in simple terms, that's why most of us simply say "insults" more commonly because it is a gross simplification and some trees can recover from different things more easily then others.
 
I've seen this 'stored energy' argument used plenty but never actually seen any real evidence. It's pretty obvious to anyone who has defoliated a tree or dehydrated a tree so the leaves all drop off that trees almost always have enough stores to recover. Even trees defoliated soon after leaf out will quickly send out a second burst of growth. I've had trees hit by late frost that killed all the emerging leaves but new leaves emerged soon after with no long term ill effect.
In nature, a hurricane or hailstorm can strip all the leaves and even branches off trees but they will usually recover.
Many fire resistant species can have the canopy scorched, sometimes even smaller branches burned off and can still recover. Lots of shrubs down here get burned to the ground and still grow back from buds in the base of the trunk or from the roots. Trees and shrubs get browsed by animals all the time. Sometimes completely defoliated, occasionally defoliated over and over but most still recover.
I guess its something that has developed to ensure that plants can recover from all sorts of natural events.
I'm sure that defoliation does take something from the tree. Whether that's 'energy' storage and distribution, I'm not sure. The point here being that most plants have enough stores/energy/ resilience to recover from occasional defoliation.

Back to collecting after leaf opening.
I have rarely collected deciduous trees after leaves are open but I have done some trials on root pruning trident maples later in Spring.
Trees with leaves left on soon turn brown and drop the leaves. I assume that's the tree trying to balance water availability (reduced by root removal) with transpiration (water evaporating from leaves). More than 90% of those trees produced new leaves after a few weeks.
I've seen clips of Japanese growers repotting maples with leaves. Those guys just defoliated the trees when root pruning at that stage so I tried that too. Tridents defoliated and root pruned recovered quicker than those with leaves left on. No losses, though the trial trees were all young, vigorous plants.


I have a closely related question that's bugged me for years.
Why is it possible, even preferable, to root prune tropicals in summer, in full leaf?
We've found that Australian natives fit in this category. many of our best growers repot Aussie native plants all year round. Years ago there was a school of thought that Aussie natives have regular shorter 'dormant' periods throughout the year and we needed to coincide repotting with one of these rest times but I've now done enough to know that I can safely root prune most Aussie natives while they are actively growing.
This goes against all we've been told by our older bonsai teachers but it still works. Why?

For a while, one of the UK collectors was promoting Summer collection as better than the usually accepted Winter/Spring and apparently having good success. How does Summer root reduction of deciduous trees fit into this debate?
Often when people say 'stored energy' they're referring to non-structural carbohydrates which are fructans, sugars, and starches within the plant cells. These reserves are built up during late summer when a tree is preparing for dormancy. When the plants leaf out in spring they are using these reserves. Then once the leaves are out they can start taking in sunlight, water, and carbon dioxide to make glucose and oxygen again.

I could go into cellular respiration as well. There are many factors that go into plant health and post-repotting survival
 
Very true..........but .....why. What goes on inside the plant to cause that to happen. If you remove all the leaves, wouldn't that solve the desiccation problem? Minimal roots don't seem to hurt a tree that's just about to come out of dormancy.
Several aspects to consider, reserves are used to open the leaves, When you remove the leaves after opening and before hardening off the plant has no opportunity to replace reserves. The root cutting disturbs distribution of any remaining reserves and limits the replacement of leaves. The tree was weakened in three aspects, used reserves, removal of photosynthesis, disruption of distribution of nutrients required with compromised root system.

One step you can consider is to remove the leaves before doing the root work, this limits the further weakness created by discarding the leaves as they wilt and drop off. The theory is that the limited remaining reserves can be used to open new buds to aid in survival.
I have used this defoliation technique successfully when required to move landscape trees after they have leafed out. Only the essential footwork was done and as many feeder roots as possible retained with limited rootball disturbance. Larger than normal footballs retained. Soil change out delayed until recovery assured and a better repotting window occurred.
 
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Movement of water and nutrients into the roots and up the trunk is driven in trees by the suction created by evapotranspiration through the stomata in the leaves. No leaves, no suction, no water movement, tree may die. In the absence of foliage as in winter some water can be taken up via capillary action, cohesion and adhesion, but if the roots are damaged or reduced significantly during collecting then that won’t happen to a great enough degree. Some species are able to produce new leaves and new roots quite dramatically, bald cypress are an excellent example. However many species cannot do this and never leaf out after being disturbed.
 
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