Collected white oak root question

ant888

Yamadori
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Location
Essex County, New Jersey
USDA Zone
6B
Hi all, I just collected a new white oak tree, and was wondering if these roots that are on it are enough for the tree to survive, or too many of the roots broke.

Thanks, and sorry for the bad quality photos
 

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If it were winter and the tree were dormant, I think you might have a better chance. That said, as long as you keep the foliage humid and keep it out of the sun (to reduce as much as possible demand for water) you might be surprised...
 
If it were winter and the tree were dormant, I think you might have a better chance. That said, as long as you keep the foliage humid and keep it out of the sun (to reduce as much as possible demand for water) you might be surprised...
so keeping the foilage humid, can I spray the leaves with water?
 
so keeping the foilage humid, can I spray the leaves with water?

Yes. If you can reduce the foliage demand for water to next to zero, the demand on the roots in the short term will be next to zero. It is really important to note - don't flood the roots with water so they sit in a swamp. Just keep the soil moist like normal, but keep the leaves in bright indirect light (no direct sun!) sheltered from wind, heat, or excessive dryness.
 
Thanks I will try and keep this tree alive. I will also update the thread on the tree's health
 
Don't write it off as dead when all the leaves fall off. You can pretty much bet it's going to drop all the leaves but it may come back in time to harden off for winter
 
Thanks I will try and keep this tree alive. I will also update the thread on the tree's health

Think like a tree. Hot dry air with lots of wind... means lots of drying in the foliage... means lots of water demand from the roots.

Cool humid air with little wind... happy foliage with almost no water demand... roots relaxed.

Remember - roots do three things (1) supply water (2) supply nutrients (3) anchor the tree. If the tree has low water requirements and already has nutrients stored... the roots are not that critical (at that moment). It gives you the window of opportunity to move a collected tree with no roots over to a healthy tree with healthy roots.
 
Remember - roots do three things (1) supply water (2) supply nutrients (3) anchor the tree. If the tree has low water requirements and already has nutrients stored... the roots are not that critical (at that moment). It gives you the window of opportunity to move a collected tree with no roots over to a healthy tree with healthy roots.
How well described. Excellent!
 
BAAAAD time to collect!o_O! Give exemplary care, partial sun(morning)best of fortune. Fine roots give some hope;).
 
White oak are (quercus alba) not a very good subject for bonsai even when collected at the right time in the spring. They are very finicky about their roots. What you have there is mostly tap root--which isn't very productive as far as supplying moisture to the top. It might pull through, but I wouldn't get too attached to it.
 
Wan't going to say anything but... my friend tried q. alba for years and most bonsai techniques resulted in larger than normal leaves for him. Maybe You'll find it's not the case for you, but it seems like conventional techniques can be counter productive. I've only worked with q. robur (english oak), the leaves reduce somewhat but still have that awesome traditional lobed oak leaf, wish I didn't sell them all I would've kicked one your way
 
Tree is still doing good. I also collected a 2nd white oak with all the roots intact. Hopefully that one will live better.
 
Growing them for lumber?
It's what they excel at.
Not bonsai so much.
 
I have a lot of young trees growing, so it's either attempt for bonsai, or they get cut with the lawn. I'd rather save them.
 
I have a lot of young trees growing, so it's either attempt for bonsai, or they get cut with the lawn. I'd rather save them.
I did the same in the begin, we had an entire field of young tree's that needed to get removed, I took like 2 or 3 from each species.
 
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