Collected azalea

[Bonsai_hope]

I discovered a large number (about 20) of small-leafed azaleas planted under an overgrown shrub. Over the past 5 years one or two have bloomed in May. I don’t know the variety but suspect they may be satsuki. I dug this one out and have had it in garden soil (acidic and full of organic matter) for 2 years. The roots have established and I’d like to do something with this. To be honest I like of like the shape now but I’m open to suggestions. I am in zone 8b

 

[just.wing.it]

It has the "3 pronged trident" look, from that angle. But it actually looks like 4 main branches there... maybe one is dead and snapped off...?

If it were mine, I would set it up tall, remove all but the smallest primary branch and build a Bunjin style tree off of one or two of the remaining branches.

More pics will gain more replies.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Greetings and congrats on the new azalea.

At this point it is really hard to tell if this is a Satsuki or not. Even when it flowers as there are so many, however t it blooms in May-June there is a good chance it is either a hybrid or a Satsuki. Leaf size really doesn’t indicate much as many non Satsuki are small leaved. Most garden azalea are hybrids or Kurumes… depending upon the location.


First thing recommend getting rid of the white rock. Instead bark if the media under is garden/peat/bark etc. This will give a homogeneous media that is easy tell when it’s time to water.

Next, please move away from the wall of the house. Azaleas are very susceptible to bounce back reflection. Would also rotate every week

Next please take out the drip watering system. Regular watering can cause root rot as azaleas vary with the season and location with their water needs.

Mostly we put new yardadory in straight medium bark for at least a year and cut these back to an optional area.

For example, of the recent yardadory (on right) we dug up last year was cut pack to two branches. These are the first year growth points. This year the tree will be potted in a large container and cut back further as needed, leaving some growth points.




This two trunk azalea (foreground) was also dug up last year. Note all the branch junctions were trimmed back to bifurcations (two branches) before planting in the ground. Likely will be potted soon, likely chapped back to balance the design, possibly separated, planting angle fixed, nebari tailored and more.


In your case there are multiple branches emanating from a point far down the trunk. Usually this would call for a chop closer to the nebari and grow out from there. Also to create taper and balance the design, similar to what the two examples above need.

btw: It really helps us help you if your approximate (within 20 miles ish) location and USDA Cold Hardiness Zone are on your icon. It saves time and message traffic. (To do so tap your icon atop the page - then account details - scroll down, enter these data and save).

This really would help in this instance as if you are in my 8b area, for example, advice would be different than the Bay Area 8b area.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Bonsai_hope]

Greetings and congrats on the new azalea.

At this point it is really hard to tell if this is a Satsuki or not. Even when it flowers as there are so many, however t it blooms in May-June there is a good chance it is either a hybrid or a Satsuki. Leaf size really doesn’t indicate much as many non Satsuki are small leaved. Most garden azalea are hybrids or Kurumes… depending upon the location.


First thing recommend getting rid of the white rock. Instead bark if the media under is garden/peat/bark etc. This will give a homogeneous media that is easy tell when it’s time to water.

Next, please move away from the wall of the house. Azaleas are very susceptible to bounce back reflection. Would also rotate every week

Next please take out the drip watering system. Regular watering can cause root rot as azaleas vary with the season and location with their water needs.

Mostly we put new yardadory in straight medium bark for at least a year and cut these back to an optional area.

For example, of the recent yardadory (on right) we dug up last year was cut pack to two branches. These are the first year growth points. This year the tree will be potted in a large container and cut back further as needed, leaving some growth points.


View attachment 581546

This two trunk azalea (foreground) was also dug up last year. Note all the branch junctions were trimmed back to bifurcations (two branches) before planting in the ground. Likely will be potted soon, likely chapped back to balance the design, possibly separated, planting angle fixed, nebari tailored and more.
View attachment 581545

In your case there are multiple branches emanating from a point far down the trunk. Usually this would call for a chop closer to the nebari and grow out from there. Also to create taper and balance the design, similar to what the two examples above need.

btw: It really helps us help you if your approximate (within 20 miles ish) location and USDA Cold Hardiness Zone are on your icon. It saves time and message traffic. (To do so tap your icon atop the page - then account details - scroll down, enter these data and save).

This really would help in this instance as if you are in my 8b area, for example, advice would be different than the Bay Area 8b area.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Bonsai_hope]

Thank you for the advice. I just moved it on my bench as we had some unusual weather and wanted to cover it in a sunny location. The white rocks were simply because I had a bag of white rocks and I dumped there there. LOL

I appreciate the comment about hardiness zones. We have incredibly hot summers which, I am sure, you or the Bay Area 8b’s don’t have. I lost one I previously dug because of the heat and I found over the past two summers the drip system is a lifesaver especially when I need to be away for a few days to a week.

These azaleas were in the garden when purchased the home and the best guess I can make is that they were probably planted in the mid-90s making them at last 30 years in the garden.

I’m attaching more pictures. There are some bad roots near the nibari and I think I can lose them without a problem now that the feeder roots are established. I worry about size if I turned it upright as it’s about 16 inches along the main trunk. As a relative newbie, I naturally worry about a hard chop and whether it will bud back or not. (I have a 40 year old ficus that I’ve been growing since 1996 and just recently had the guts to defoliate.) While I’ve been interested in Bonsai since I was a boy and saw the exhibit at the Brooklyn Botanical Gardens and my 1996 purchase of a ficus it’s only been since I’ve retired that I have expanded by collection.

I appreciate any and all advice. Can you tell me something about Azaleas budding back? Also, when is the best time to dig the remaining garden specimens into grow pots.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Honestly, this azalea is not a really great subject for bonsai. Yet it is a really great project azalea!

Here’s my thoughts for this project. The goal is to create a workable framework of a bonsai azalea while developing your skills. See image



Explanation

1. Chop - Cleanly chop/saw these two branches at the junctions soon as possible when materials are acquired. Follow the contours of the trunk. Use chisel to smooth slightly convex. Seal with Top Jin first. Then, when dry, use green topped bonsai putty for conifers to seal over. (And azaleas). This will take the azaleas down to two branches at the junction.

2. Shorten trunk - Air layer in the lower marked area as soon as research is done so you feel comfortable doing so. Look up air layer technique on BonsaiNut, several other sites, any bonsai books available and YouTube. Should be done as just as buds push. Be sure to chop the sphagnum finely after completely soaking before using. Mixing with kanuma will help. Have all supplies on hand and ready before making first cut.

3. Chase back growth - Both remaining branches need the growth to be pushed back towards the junction and grown out. Start by not letting the foliage on the ends extend. Then push back from green section to inner green section. Given decent growth you can get this mostly done in 2-3 waves. Key times for long growing season areas. Spring after leafing out. After normal bloom time. After heat dies down.

Just a couple ideas.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Bonsai_hope]

Honestly, this azalea is not a really great subject for bonsai. Yet it is a really great project azalea!

Here’s my thoughts for this project. The goal is to create a workable framework of a bonsai azalea while developing your skills. See image

View attachment 581569

Honestly, this azalea is not a really great subject for bonsai. Yet it is a really great project azalea!

Here’s my thoughts for this project. The goal is to create a workable framework of a bonsai azalea while developing your skills. See image

View attachment 581569

Explanation

1. Chop - Cleanly chop/saw these two branches at the junctions soon as possible when materials are acquired. Follow the contours of the trunk. Use chisel to smooth slightly convex. Seal with Top Jin first. Then, when dry, use green topped bonsai putty for conifers to seal over. (And azaleas). This will take the azaleas down to two branches at the junction.

2. Shorten trunk - Air layer in the lower marked area as soon as research is done so you feel comfortable doing so. Look up air layer technique on BonsaiNut, several other sites, any bonsai books available and YouTube. Should be done as just as buds push. Be sure to chop the sphagnum finely after completely soaking before using. Mixing with kanuma will help. Have all supplies on hand and ready before making first cut.

3. Chase back growth - Both remaining branches need the growth to be pushed back towards the junction and grown out. Start by not letting the foliage on the ends extend. Then push back from green section to inner green section. Given decent growth you can get this mostly done in 2-3 waves. Key times for long growing season areas. Spring after leafing out. After normal bloom time. After heat dies down.

Just a couple ideas.

Cheers
DSD sends

Explanation

1. Chop - Cleanly chop/saw these two branches at the junctions soon as possible when materials are acquired. Follow the contours of the trunk. Use chisel to smooth slightly convex. Seal with Top Jin first. Then, when dry, use green topped bonsai putty for conifers to seal over. (And azaleas). This will take the azaleas down to two branches at the junction.

2. Shorten trunk - Air layer in the lower marked area as soon as research is done so you feel comfortable doing so. Look up air layer technique on BonsaiNut, several other sites, any bonsai books available and YouTube. Should be done as just as buds push. Be sure to chop the sphagnum finely after completely soaking before using. Mixing with kanuma will help. Have all supplies on hand and ready before making first cut.

3. Chase back growth - Both remaining branches need the growth to be pushed back towards the junction and grown out. Start by not letting the foliage on the ends extend. Then push back from green section to inner green section. Given decent growth you can get this mostly done in 2-3 waves. Key times for long growing season areas. Spring after leafing out. After normal bloom time. After heat dies down.

Just a couple ideas.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Bonsai_hope]

Honestly, this azalea is not a really great subject for bonsai. Yet it is a really great project azalea!

Here’s my thoughts for this project. The goal is to create a workable framework of a bonsai azalea while developing your skills. See image

View attachment 581569

Explanation

1. Chop - Cleanly chop/saw these two branches at the junctions soon as possible when materials are acquired. Follow the contours of the trunk. Use chisel to smooth slightly convex. Seal with Top Jin first. Then, when dry, use green topped bonsai putty for conifers to seal over. (And azaleas). This will take the azaleas down to two branches at the junction.

2. Shorten trunk - Air layer in the lower marked area as soon as research is done so you feel comfortable doing so. Look up air layer technique on BonsaiNut, several other sites, any bonsai books available and YouTube. Should be done as just as buds push. Be sure to chop the sphagnum finely after completely soaking before using. Mixing with kanuma will help. Have all supplies on hand and ready before making first cut.

3. Chase back growth - Both remaining branches need the growth to be pushed back towards the junction and grown out. Start by not letting the foliage on the ends extend. Then push back from green section to inner green section. Given decent growth you can get this mostly done in 2-3 waves. Key times for long growing season areas. Spring after leafing out. After normal bloom time. After heat dies down.

Just a couple ideas.

Cheers
DSD sends

Thank you so much. I will do all that. Despite being new to bonsai I’m very experienced with garden trees and have many successful air layerings under my belt. I didn’t think at all to air layering this. I can see why this is not a good specimen for bonsai but I have a philosophical objection to killing trees whether they are in the landscape or in a pot.

As I said I have 18 more of these (there was one that died due to heat stress and this one totaling 20) that need to be moved but it will just take my laying under shrubby to decide which should be next. Do you have any advice on when is the optimal time to dig them out and put them in growing containers?

 

[Shibui]

Do you have any advice on when is the optimal time to dig them out and put them in growing containers?

We have relatively warm winters here. Nights dip just below freezing for a couple of months so may be different to your situation.
I've successfully transplanted azaleas all months of the year. They don't seem to care if it is summer, winter, spring or autumn and I've found them surprisingly resilient to transplant. I suspect that caring for the transplants might be a little easier after Spring and Late Summer transplants rather than mid summer or winter. Colder winters would probably mean an earlier end to Summer transplant window.

Agree with @Deep Sea Diver plan for that azalea. The trunk is straight, has almost no taper, bends or branches so to make any worthwhile bonsai from it is going to take some quite radical changes.
Hoping some of the others hiding under your shrub have some better trunks than this one.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Great.

Dig as soon as all danger of freezing is over. Or protect in greenhouse or garage during frosts.

Look for those with branching starting lower down first.

Cheers
DSD sends