Clearance Trees

[stu929]

I stopped by a local nursery that’s doing a deep clearance on any trees they still have. All have trunks thicker than my wrist and I’m not a petite guy.

These are what they have and I’m debating if I should get some or all of them.

Pinus Sylvestris
Hornbeam
Minter king hawthorn
Japanese Stewartia
Brave bald cypress x3-4
Virginia red cedar (very pretty tree)

Hornbeams I know and love and know they can make nice bonsai as well as bald cypress. The others I have no personal experience with so I’d love so thoughts or ideas. Again all of these are meant to be landscape trees but are older thicker trees I could chop and have the benefit of a nice aged thick trunk. None of them would be more than 50 bucks. Most have bases the size of a Large tea from McD some are larger than that.

Ideas and opinions please.

Has anyone ever used a winter king hawthorn before ?

I know hawthorns are sought after but they seem to be hard to find near me or very expensive. I found a few at a nursery that is closing everything out they are big landscape trees I would obviously have to chop but given the size and price I think it could be worth it if this species works for bonsai.

 

[Nybonsai12]

If they are ungrafted and have decent bonsai characteristics for $50 i'd probably give em a shot(prob the stewartia and sylvestris). But if they have straight trunks, poor bases etc i'd probably pass. Get some pics and i'm sure people will chime in with more info.

 

[BrianBay9]

I'd take the hornbeam, hawthorn and stewartia. Those should be able to be cut down substantially. Air layer the tops if appropriate.

 

[rockm]

I'd skip the red cedar (not an easy bonsai subject for a number of reasons, trunks are great on nursery trees, foliage is tough to work with). You can get it, but it's a hassle. Not many good red cedar bonsai around.

The "Brave" bald cypress is "Shawnee Brave" BC, a variety that has extremely apical dominant (top is strong) growth, which isn't really a problem so much as it would be annoying. Lower branching is already not all that easy on BC. Having a tree that tries to avoid making lower branching adds to that.

The hawthorn is a crap shoot (The one you have is "Winter King"--Crataegus viridis.) US hawthorns are a wild bunch, some work, others not so much. They're all subject to cedar hawthorn rust, which might be an occasional issue. Native hawthorn can make really good bonsai, though. Viridis is also a more Southerly species, so in a container it might need some extra protection in the winter.

The hornbeam is good. Stewartia as well. I'd plant both in the ground for a few years to develop their trunks and nebari.

Pinus sylvestris is Scots Pine and a pretty good bonsai subject if you know some of the details in growing out pine bonsai.

Whether I'd get any of them would depend on what they offer structurally--decent root spread, potential (or already established) trunks, etc. Top 2/3 of the trees at this point don't really matter (except with the pine). The bottom third is what you will be working with eventually, once it has developed enough for your tastes.

 

[penumbra]

You have the decided advantage here because we cannot see the trees. The Winter King Hawthorn is a stunning tree but it is grafted. Still, even if graft is unsuitable, it make a great landscape tree. From my experience it shows some resistance to rust. I feel rather the same way about the Stewartia. I wouldn't let it get away either, even if relegated to being a landscape tree. Hornbeams are a no brainer, buy them. Scots pines are one of my favorites and bald cypress are great for pot or ground. Cedar is not a good idea and it always amazes me when I happen upon one at a garden center. (rarely) There are thousands of them within sight of my house.

 

[Ininaatigoons]

One issue with eastern red cedar is the needles. Prone to juvenile foliage, but also mix in the adult foliage and that is hard to control. Some say the juvenile foliage is sparse and that it's a bit harder to make decent pads. The one I had was nice enough for me and the fact that it has a pyramidal shape vs mounding or prostrate lends itself to the vertical designs which I like. I have to find another one of these.

 

[stu929]

From the posts I’m likely to grab two hornbeams the Stewartia and a hawthorn to play with. Sadly I never see hawthorn here so just the option to get one is nice.

As for the base of these they are all what I would call pretty substantial. Bigger than a 20oz soda can. Probabaly all at least a 24 oz bear can maybe bigger. Yes the plan would be to chop them all the main thing I would be doing is skipping the time to get the trunk to thicken.

 

[stu929]

I want to take the Scots but I’m not sure what I could do with it and I’m not looking for landscape trees. I’m looking for trees to make into projects for bonsai.

 

[The Barber]

Toss up photos, I wanna see em.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

I want to take the Scots but I’m not sure what I could do with it and I’m not looking for landscape trees. I’m looking for trees to make into projects for bonsai.

Scot’s will work well!

Here’s a link to @Wires_Guy_wires Scot’s Pine resource sheet

cheers
DSD sends

 

[stu929]

I’ll try to grab some tomorrow.

Toss up photos, I wanna see em.

 

[John P.]

I’d say it’s all about the trunks. Without pictures, nearly impossible to say.

 

[Dabbler]

I came here from some spicy pics - I leave disappointed