Chop it low or let it grow?

drew33998

drew33998

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This is a crabapple/cherry(not sure which and can't tell so far from blooms/foliage) hardwood cutting that I struck three years ago. It was my first time taking hardwood cuttings in the winter and only 2 of around 100 survived. It is currently at about a 3/4 inch caliper. So should I chop it low this pre spring or let it go another year?image.jpgimage.jpg
 
Let it grow. Check the articles on evergreengardenworks.com for Developing Trunks.
 
grow



HW Bush=8 years of Clinton, GW Bush= 8 years of Obama. What would 8 years of Jeb Bush give us?

8 years of Sorce!

Sorce
 
drew33998 said:
This is a crabapple/cherry(not sure which and can't tell so far from blooms/foliage) hardwood cutting that I struck three years ago. It was my first time taking hardwood cuttings in the winter and only 2 of around 100 survived. It is currently at about a 3/4 inch caliper. So should I chop it low this pre spring or let it go another year?
Click to expand...

Bonus points for those that made it
 
drew33998 said:
This is a crabapple/cherry(not sure which and can't tell so far from blooms/foliage) hardwood cutting that I struck three years ago. It was my first time taking hardwood cuttings in the winter and only 2 of around 100 survived. It is currently at about a 3/4 inch caliper. So should I chop it low this pre spring or let it go another year?View attachment 84371View attachment 84372
Click to expand...
Weed eater!
 
Looks like cherry. I'd let it grow one more year, and it will double in diameter. Then chop low...really low, like 2" high.
When I grew a few, I made the mistake of chopping in late winter, and experienced a lot of dieback. Chop in May '17, and by the end of the season, you'll have a sizable second trunk section, which has taper and movement.
 
I cut a trident maple like at 10 inches, expecting a bud and then cutting lower... I think it will not come back...
I don't know if the same might happen here, but take precautions.
 
It's good enough for a small bonsai, but if you want it bigger you should let it grow.
 
Brian Van Fleet said:
Looks like cherry. I'd let it grow one more year, and it will double in diameter. Then chop low...really low, like 2" high.
When I grew a few, I made the mistake of chopping in late winter, and experienced a lot of dieback. Chop in May '17, and by the end of the season, you'll have a sizable second trunk section, which has taper and movement.
Click to expand...

Should I do anything to the roots? Shove a spade down in a circumference to manage any long lateral roots? I haven't done anything with the roots since planting.

The other cutting that took hasn't grown much and I think I will lift it out of its current location and plant it in a more ideal/sunnier location or in a large box.
 
How about one more? Chinese quince. Not too fond of the trunk shape. It has a nice wiggle but is pigeon breasted. It has actually rooted itself into the ground. Chop it low or let it grow? I think I will let the roots continue into the ground for at least this next year. image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpg
 
barrosinc said:
I cut a trident maple like at 10 inches, expecting a bud and then cutting lower... I think it will not come back...
I don't know if the same might happen here, but take precautions.
Click to expand...

Since I didnt know maples only bud from a node before Smoke posted it I Will wait for him to say it so I don't get a dislike!

Sorce
 
The photos don't offer enough for a good suggestion. Maybe a different angle/tilt/front can be found, but I'd try to utilize as much of the trunk as you can, maybe chopping at the point where it gets straightened out; just above where the bottom of the siding passes behind the trunk in the first photo.

Chinese quince don't heal wounds very well, and tend to swell around the cuts, so keep that in mind when you do chop. Keep the cut to the back, and angled so the bulge from callusing is minimized.
 
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