Chinese elm......ground layer or leave it

[Joe Dupre']

I dug this Chinese elm from my neighbor's yard 5-6 years ago as a bare stump. It's been healthy and growing very well since. It's always had a mild reverse taper and I feel the bottom branches are too high. I am considering ground layering it about 3 inches higher. That will hopefully solve both problems and give it a shorter, chunkier look. Check out the pictures. Yea or nay for the ground layer.

 

[Paradox]

Has really nice movement. I wouldn't ground layer

 

[B-Trees]

I think a few root grafts at the base would work better, it's more of a sure thing.

Or, how far is it from the first branch to the top? If there's an opportunity to layer it into a shohin, I personally would take that option, right below the first branch. I would also try to do some of that shohin branch work while it's still on this larger tree, I think it would go quicker vs layering then starting branch work

 

[River's Edge]

I dug this Chinese elm from my neighbor's yard 5-6 years ago as a bare stump. It's been healthy and growing very well since. It's always had a mild reverse taper and I feel the bottom branches are too high. I am considering ground layering it about 3 inches higher. That will hopefully solve both problems and give it a shorter, chunkier look. Check out the pictures. Yea or nay for the ground layer.

View attachment 550652View attachment 550653

What is the bark damage on the one side lower down? That would seem to be a factor in the decision making. If you do layer the tree, I would consider the old school method of using a wire tourniquet in the beginning to forma wider flare before cutting the ring for layering. Another option would be the cement ring to set the level, expand the base and form the new layer. No reason why it could not used with a larger plastic pot as a shroud for the ground layer portion.

 

[Joe Dupre']

What is the bark damage on the one side lower down? That would seem to be a factor in the decision making. If you do layer the tree, I would consider the old school method of using a wire tourniquet in the beginning to forma wider flare before cutting the ring for layering. Another option would be the cement ring to set the level, expand the base and form the new layer. No reason why it could not used with a larger plastic pot as a shroud for the ground layer portion.

The bark "damage" is actually naturally occurring bark exfoliation.

I was just thinking of cutting around the trunk and removing the bark at the proper height (as shown with the folded towel) and then building up a wall around it to be filled with bonsai soil.

I kind of like the new look, but the old look is not bad either.

 

[pandacular]

I personally don’t find the inverse taper to be offensive. Perhaps its more pronounced from another angle or in person, but I generally agree with Paradox on this one. I could see a lower ground layer being useful to get better roots perhaps.

I wonder if growing out the trunk harder would smooth it out some too.

 

[River's Edge]

The bark "damage" is actually naturally occurring bark exfoliation.

How can you tell my only elms are " Swiju" the rough bark variety! And they are young, all less than 15 years. At roughly what age does Chinese Elm begin to shed mature bark? My older trident has reached that stage ( roughly 25 to 30 yers of age)

Have to think that a planting angle change, rotation and strengthening the existing roots on the left side may complete and improve the existing tree without major intervention! The left side roots would strengthen and thicken if thinned a bit and covered. Lower ground layer left side without the trunk cut.
Only disadvantage is display for a few years while the soil level is kept higher. Bit Moreland earlier fertilizer on that side of the pot. Let the tree run for a bit.

 

[Joe Dupre']

How can you tell my only elms are " Swiju" the rough bark variety! And they are young, all less than 15 years. At roughly what age does Chinese Elm begin to shed mature bark? My older trident has reached that stage ( roughly 25 to 30 yers of age)

Have to think that a planting angle change, rotation and strengthening the existing roots on the left side may complete and improve the existing tree without major intervention! The left side roots would strengthen and thicken if thinned a bit and covered. Lower ground layer left side without the trunk cut.
Only disadvantage is display for a few years while the soil level is kept higher. Bit Moreland earlier fertilizer on that side of the pot. Let the tree run for a bit.

I really don't know the age when the bark begins to exfoliate. I'm guessing this tree was 5-6 years old when dug. I've had it 5-6 years.
I repotted it into this grow pot this year to let it bush out, so not worried about the show aspect. I do need to go back and cover some of those roots as the soil has settled around them.

It seems the general opinion is to leave it, which is what I was leaning towards. Thanks for the comments.

 

[Maiden69]

How can you tell my only elms are " Swiju" the rough bark variety! And they are young, all less than 15 years. At roughly what age does Chinese Elm begin to shed mature bark? My older trident has reached that stage ( roughly 25 to 30 yers of age)

Frank, I think that the exfoliating bark is mostly due to rapid growth. I have a tree from Brussels that was probably around 3-5 year old that had none, and within a year growing in my above ground planter developed bark all over the trunk.



@Joe Dupre' I agree with the ground layering, elm's root very easily, so cutting a bark ring and raising the level of the soil would definitely work. You could also just use a raised shallow pot about 2" off the soil level and you could end up with 2 trees when you separate the top, as shoot will probably grow from that stump. That would make a short and fat shohin for sure.

Also, in my experience elm's roots need to be work often, like zelkova. If not you will end with a few thick roots and no flare on the nebari. I was watching a few BonsaiQ videos and they recommend working the roots in the development phase every year starting from a seedling to remove thick roots and encourage finer roots near the trunk.