Cedar Elm trunk chop

[bray]

A tree that I wanted to get some input on and also to share my acquisition. I was visiting family and friends in Texas last spring (2024). A friend had this elm at their backyard fence that had been chopped, cut, and wacked on for years trying to kill it but it wouldn't die. The main truck was split down to just below where I cut the trunk off. I dug it up and cut it down to fit in a box to mail it to myself. The picture below shows a circle of where I cut it down to fit in the box. Should have put something in the pic for scale but main trunk is 2" wide, height of the tree that went into the box was 10". Trunk height was probably another 10" before I cut it down. Probably not how I would have trimmed the tree had I not needed to get it in a box for shipping but it is what it is. Everything outside of the circle grew in the 2024 growing season. Not too bad of growth considering I dug it up after the tree had leafed out but it was early in the growing season. Not only that the box was in shipment for a week. There were a few more shoots on the tree, but I cut off those going down, those going up and a few others that I knew would not be used. My plan for this year is to smooth out the transitions where the trunk cuts are to begin their healing and probably wire the first few inches of the branches to get some wiggle in them other than that let it grow grow grow for strong root growth.


Now to the question. When I was growing bonsai previously in my life and I would do trunk chop of this diameter, I was never really happy with the flat spot that was left. Flat is flat and trees are not flat. In the picture below is there a reason I cannot cut at the blue line and nibble the edge of the cut (the red line) to slope the edge in and round everything off a little. I hope that makes sense. Will this prevent healing? It seems like I tried it before, years ago, but I am not sure. Anybody have any examples (pics) of your efforts you could share. Note: lines are not exactly where I would cut just examples cause I see now they are not lined up to the trunks next section correctly but you get the idea.



Not great material but it was given to me for the cost of shipping and with some proper growing I think it could be a nice tree.
Thanks for your time and any input you could give.

 

[August44]

I don't see any reason that You can't do that, I'm just not real sure I like that small trunk/branch coming out the side like that and having all the branches. What might happen if you whacked the main trunk below the big branch at an angle. It might get excited and start pushing branches from the main trunk. All just my opinion of course.

 

[bray]

"What might happen if you whacked the main trunk below the big branch at an angle."

The bottom trunk section will probably send out more shoots this year after the root growth last year but I don't like the bend in the second trunk section either. So yes, I have considered it and could still chop it if I don't like it moving forward.
Thanks for the feedback I will study the tree this year with your input in mind.

 

[Shibui]

The proposed red/blue line is about where I'd normally chop a trunk. I'd probably make the angle a little steeper to make the transition from thick to thinner even more smooth.
When I chop a tree with a strong side branch like this one to take over as the new trunk I'd usually make that angle cut right off rather than waiting a year - simply to save time and get the healing started a year earlier.

 

[bray]

The proposed red/blue line is about where I'd normally chop a trunk. I'd probably make the angle a little steeper to make the transition from thick to thinner even more smooth.
When I chop a tree with a strong side branch like this one to take over as the new trunk I'd usually make that angle cut right off rather than waiting a year - simply to save time and get the healing started a year earlier.

I put the lines at that angle because it leaves a small shoot on the right side of the trunk which I thought may help healing, should I not worry about it? Better to get the angle right and let the healing do what it's going to do?

 

[Shibui]

If that small shoot is useful as a first branch - needs to be growing slightly front of side if possible - or back branch, then it may pay to retain it even though I think the angle is a bit too steep.
If you are just retaining that shoot to help heal the wound I would advise against it. I've never seen that work. The branch simply makes a larger bulge. Even if it does manage to help you heal the wound you'll then need to chop it leaving another larger wound and, usually, a bulge to go with it.
If the lower shoot is destined to be first branch I'd actually be tempted to slope the cut down closer to that level.

Wounds like this heal in direct relation to how much sap is passing by. That means the more the top section grows, the quicker that chop will close over. Nearby branches can help a little but generally cause more problems than they help.

 

[bray]

I hear what you are saying. I doubt the shoot would be used for the first branch due to it's location so, I will choose a slope that lines up better with the second trunk section.
Another question, I've still got more than a foot of snow on the ground here and won't see any movement in trees for almost a month. Can I make the cut, dress and seal now or should I wait till closer to when the buds begin to move?
Thanks for the feedback.

 

[rockm]

I hear what you are saying. I doubt the shoot would be used for the first branch due to it's location so, I will choose a slope that lines up better with the second trunk section.
Another question, I've still got more than a foot of snow on the ground here and won't see any movement in trees for almost a month. Can I make the cut, dress and seal now or should I wait till closer to when the buds begin to move?
Thanks for the feedback.

Wait. You will get die back with a large cut and freezing weather. CE is cold hardy but I usually wait until the dangers of deep freezes pass in late March. I’ve had cedar elm in N Va for thirty years now

 

[bray]

I will wait there is no rush. I will say though that the tree is being kept in a cold greenhouse in our barn with the temps being kept above 34 degrees, should have mentioned that before.
We are finally getting some days above freezing last week and this but winter is not over yet.

 

[rockm]

I will wait there is no rush. I will say though that the tree is being kept in a cold greenhouse in our barn with the temps being kept above 34 degrees, should have mentioned that before.
We are finally getting some days above freezing last week and this but winter is not over yet.

Doesn’t need to be above 34. That can cause early bud break. Mine are under mulch in the garden bed no other protection. Got down to 3 f a few nights in Feb no issues.