Can one repot and trim without taking trees out of rock planting or pot

[Cadillactaste]

I am pretty certain I have heard/read it done...just curious if anyone has done it personally.

The reason I ask...that thuja planting is larger than I can handle...its going to need repotted at some point. Really dislike the thought of manhandling it.

 

[0soyoung]

I have some large-ish patio trees in pots. I cut around the perimeter with a keyhole saw, dig out the severed roots and soil and replace it with fresh, never having moved the tree relative to the pot. Perhaps doing something similar would work for your rock planting. I'd start with a root hook around the perimeter.

 

[Cadillactaste]

I have some large-ish patio trees in pots. I cut around the perimeter with a keyhole saw, dig out the severed roots and soil and replace it with fresh, never having moved the tree relative to the pot. Perhaps doing something similar would work for your rock planting. I'd start with a root hook around the perimeter.

Thanks...I think you are on to something.

 

[sorce]

I would defer to @crust in that I believe he has a thuja on a slab for 12+ with no repotting.

I find slabs, rocks, anything but a pot,
To be more sustainable and need much less frequent repotting because they are essentially colanders .

What would circle a pot eventually finds its way out of a slab and airprunes....

When I look at my similar planting.
This is what I feel.

Sorce

 

[Cadillactaste]

@sorce ... Not a slab. So possibly different. It's so heavy I can't personally move it. The hubs does it for me.

 

[sorce]

@sorce ... Not a slab. So possibly different. It's so heavy I can't personally move it. The hubs does it for me.
View attachment 183069

I find that rock to be porous enough that even roots below will air prune. Of course one good look into the planting pocket is an education you MUST have IMO...but I still think you have a few safe years before you do it.

People say "the tree ate the soil" or "there was no more soil, only roots"...

We know trees don't eat soil per say, but we do know this phenomenon exists.

Thats why these are more sustainable. They root prune, dead tips turn to soil, roots eat that and die and its a cycle!
Included is much more wildlife and microcosms in a porous environment much more inviting than a bonsai pot...nature is more prone to happen, nature nurtures!

And it leads to this situations where trees can go forever without repotting...

Plus...Ryan Neil teaches us that trees only need 2 things 2 live.

Water and Oxygen.

More importantly, diffused oxygen in water that has nothing to do with porous soil.

So we know, because Ryan has a degree, and is a freak of bonsai nature...

That trees don't need new, or any soil, repotting, etc.

These are merely things we do for the convenience of making a bonsai.

In the effort of making a bonsai.

I vote wait.

Sorce

 

[Cadillactaste]

Honestly...I am one for not rushing into repots...especially tackling this thing. But...see me one day doing what osoyoung does. If anything...

 

[Shima]

No doubt the roots have a firm grip on the rock. You could sluice the soil out with a stream of H20 with the planting on it's side and then tease new soil into the roots even thinning some if necessary.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Kind of hard to repot without DE pot first.

 

[Shima]

Huh?

 

[sorce]

Huh?

Da pot! DE...pot! Lol! Fucker!

Sorce

 

[crust]

Of course, planting can be root pruned without removal. Pros do it all the time. Thuyas a very resilient and not sensitive. get in there and probe around. find out how tight the roots are. How the roots lie. Get in there with a scissor and cut out sections of sections. Selectively remove up to a third but not necessarily. One is just trying to maintain the planting--keeping it from being completely solid for too long--and to slightly invigorate. To get new soil in. To allow the roots to regrow for a while. note carefully what you have done and where then in 5 years do the other areas. Don't over fertilize planting as it will overgrow the roots and top.

 

[Cadillactaste]

Of course, planting can be root pruned without removal. Pros do it all the time. Thuyas a very resilient and not sensitive. get in there and probe around. find out how tight the roots are. How the roots lie. Get in there with a scissor and cut out sections of sections. Selectively remove up to a third but not necessarily. One is just trying to maintain the planting--keeping it from being completely solid for too long--and to slightly invigorate. To get new soil in. To allow the roots to regrow for a while. note carefully what you have done and where then in 5 years do the other areas. Don't over fertilize planting as it will overgrow the roots and top.

Concur in sections then...so like...front section then back...in five years. Or...in 1/4's...working front left, then front right...right back....left back in 5 year increments? Trying to get a feel for a direction. You also mentioned 3rds...I am thinking you mean depth of roots...from bottom of rock to the top. If I am mistaken...please correct me.

So appreciate your guidance on this fella. I feel this was a planting...and not really a raft. So...each on their own root systems but surely intertwined by now.

 

[crust]

Concur in sections then...so like...front section then back...in five years. Or...in 1/4's...working front left, then front right...right back....left back in 5 year increments? Trying to get a feel for a direction. You also mentioned 3rds...I am thinking you mean depth of roots...from bottom of rock to the top. If I am mistaken...please correct me.

So appreciate your guidance on this fella. I feel this was a planting...and not really a raft. So...each on their own root systems but surely intertwined by now.

I mean you can remove up to a third of the roots of any thuya which is pretty aggressive and probably not necessary. on a gently growing planting you don't want to over stimulate but then you want to leave it alone too so it gets dwarf and refined--so it's a balance decision.

 

[Cadillactaste]

I mean you can remove up to a third of the roots of any thuya which is pretty aggressive and probably not necessary. on a gently growing planting you don't want to over stimulate but then you want to leave it alone too so it gets dwarf and refined--so it's a balance decision.

Okay...thanks. So since most on individual roots tangled no doubt...I will do the front...then wait five years and do the back. That sounds the easiest way to tackle this. Now...I just did my juniper procumben with it starting to wake...is Thuja similar in root work? Assuming so...

Again...so appreciate your direction. Was not looking forward to removing the entire grouping and dealing with it. I have a shoulder which gives me trouble...and this fella is more than I can handle. Which is why most my trees are no larger than Kifu size at best.

 

[crust]

If you want to keep your Thuya small--prune and wire a lot more.

 

[Cadillactaste]

If you want to keep your Thuya small--prune and wire a lot more.

Thanks...its a huge grouping. Pruning I read on a Canadian link...only in September...is this fact or just how they do it?

 

[GrimLore]

Thanks...its a huge grouping. Pruning I read on a Canadian link...only in September...is this fact or just how they do it?

Here late Spring or early Summer for pruning. Avoid topping them a lot, trim tops only.

Dig around the root system with a chopstick, cut pie shaped slices out if needed to make room much like Juniper and fill in the space with substrate and the new roots will grow into it. if it is really jammed up consider removing and inch or two all around the outside edges and fill with substrate. Once the outer edges have roots in them go to the pie sectioning. It is easier wet down and coming out of dormancy - the roots won't care as much as well, they just wake up more and grow.

Grimmy

 

[Cadillactaste]

@Grimmy...pie shape...I like that visual. Thanks!

 

[GrimLore]

@Grimmy...pie shape...I like that visual. Thanks!

Common practice in Junipers grown in pretty shallow containers. If more people show up this year to work them I will photo document both methods and why one might be used prior to another. The outer edge root chops we normally do when there is so much root the plant is rising out of the pot a bit. The pie slices when they need thinning more then removal. Easier to do the pie slices and avoid horribly overgrown if possible

Grimmy